I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have been asked by my stepfather to service his Sanford Bros HF 36000 automatic watch bought new in 1977. On starting work, I noticed its an ETA 2832 but on looking for the technical sheet, I can't find one anywhere. Perhaps it is a rare movement but maybe there's an equivalent document I can use. My first main concern after removing the rotor is how to remove the auto-wind assembly - looks quite complicated and this is only my second attempt at an automatic movement. I've added a few photos for reference. Of interest, Sanford Bros was a small watchmaking company in the '70s based at 321/323 Oxford Street, London W1. He still has the original sales invoice!
Would anybody be able to point me in the right direction please?
Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
Has anybody done this befor?
And how it the best way to do this?
Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4 with a ETA 2784 movment.
Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama....
Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown.
So the question is:
Can I just replace the main spring?
Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ?
Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced?
Lol that's the problem JohnHutchins....I do not want to have to take apart this watch just to replace a capacitor, especially with those annoying/fragile plastic gears. Not worth the effort for a $60 job. I feel like Citizen made it like this in order to force customers to send their watch in for a $200 service that takes 6 months (in which they will just rip the stem out and replace the entire movement). Shame.
You might be right though, Pip, maybe there's been some sort of manufacturing flaw or unseated piece that is preventing the stem from coming out. Shit does happen.
A vintage Dundee lady tonight. I doubt if this is the smallest Timex watch ever made, but it is certainly fairly dinky.
Serviced and polished, but the strap that was on it is done, and I have no 10mm straps, so I'll need to get one.
I'm unsure of the age, if any of the experts know, do tell.
Other than a very light crop of green fungus on the strap pins (fresh pins fitted) and the dead strap it was fairly tidy and polished up rather nicely.
It is managing a fairly respectable swing of 265 degrees and sitting slightly fast at +70 at the moment, so I'll let it settle overnight and finish it up tomorrow.