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Hi I live in Palm Beach Florida and love watches. Hi I have bought 2 rolexes, 1 gucci and three bulovas the last 10 years. My favorite watch is Ulysseus Nardin (which I dont own)

I own a fake Rolex submariner and the piece that connects the band to the watch is missing. I want to get this piece replaced but I fear that getting a replacement piece from a Rolex store would be way to pricey, and getting a cheap knockoff piece online would be, well too cheap. Is there any place to purchase replacement parts for an affordable price?

Hi all, this is my first post here. I repair watches as a hobby, and usually work on my own watches. This particular watch, along with two others, were give to a friend of mine, by his father, about three days before he passed away recently. The three watches, hence have an emotional value to my friend, and so, I wanted to get them going again. I fixed the QMax (Replaced battery), Titan (PCB and Coil, new battery, glass), and am working on this Rolex now. Almost all Indicators of a genuine Rolex that I have read of online, are absent, hence making me believe its most definitely a fake. i.e. No serial number or any stamping anywhere on case, no Logo on crown, Dial looks as if its been lacquered, bad finish, bracelet, and most importantly, no markings on the movement, and the movement was not used on any Rolex to my knowledge. Please enlighten me on this, if I am wrong. The issue I have now, is that, on the movement, there were no markings whatsoever, of the make or model. There were only serial numbers that read as "34B - 963125". After searching a lot, I realized, its an ETA 963.125, and photos on the internet matched with the movement I have. No marking of ETA on the movement (a fake again?). Its in a pretty rough shape, with the quartz oscillator (forgive my lack of knowledge of its correct name, as mechanics call it a "condenser" here), fallen apart. I did a preliminary search with the mechanics and spares shop here, and they all said its very old and parts are not available. Only one said, he will get me a scrap movement, but I am a bit doubtful. I was able to get a service manual for ETA 963.124 online. My question now is, is it possible to get these spares, or the whole movement anywhere in Bangalore, India? (my place), or is it possible to replace the whole movement with a different one, with the day and date windows matching with the dial? Or is it possible to reuse the same day and date rings on a different movement? Can anyone advice me on this? TIA. Pictures attached, forgive the lower quality, problem with my mobile cam.

Wondering whether anyone else had experienced this. I repaired a colleagues Rolex after she smashed it in a fall, serviced, refitted rotor and fitted new glass. The plastic seal that arrived with the Sternkreuzer glass was too thick so I refitted the old seal. Watch us running really well and has been on the wrist for a few weeks but large amounts of debriefs formed on the dial, hands and glass. In inspection it looks like small particles or shavings of plastic, I can only think this us coming from the refitted seal, any thoughts gratefully appreciated.

I'm replacing the crystal on a Rolex Submariner 16610. When I removed the crystal, part of the gasket remained in the groove in the case. I'm at a loss as to how to remove the remaining gasket. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Rolex Tudor oysterdate. Back cover slight damage I can't open. Omega Seamaster Quartz. Requires crystal, battery cover, seals. Cwc Military. requires back seal. Or what are they worth as a job lot???

Hi First I'd like to say thanks let us post this survey ** LINK REMOVED - PLEASE READ THE RULES REGARDING PROMOTION ** Would also love your help promoting the survey Thanks

My name is Kevin. I grew up in Portland Oregon and Hollywood California. I live in Los Angeles, and spend time between LA and a town I cannot pronounce 50km northeast of Bangkok Thailand. I have a few watches and do not fix them. I have had issues with expensive repairs. I would explain but I would hate to get banned so soon. My daily watch is a Seiko SKX007 or a Marathon GSAR. The Maratac SR-9015L is favored over my Submariner, which I cannot explain. My newest is a Seiko Zimbe. None are for sale, which is not allowed here. Good policy. I am on Timezone, Rolex forums and others. I will discuss watches with anyone. Discussing time required some understanding of physics. Probably boring. Mark, your videos are great. I can talk with Jack, my watch repairman, in detail more than "it doesnt run". I am beginning to understand in-beat and a few detail I have not mastered. Someday I will find a master artist to redo my Rolex 1675 dial. The cracking never bothered me. These things happen with years of daily use. I felt old when an AD refered to my 1675 as vintage, new in 1983. I see your crossed a Patreon milestone. Good for you.

So I ran out of work a little early today and was browsing around the watch listings on eBay. I found this gorgeous little Rolex Bubbleback 3130. I couldn't quite make out all the inscription on the back and being bored and being a curious person I spent some time trying to find out who it had belonged to. It turns out that it was owned by Clarence Vincent Conlan (March 10, 1898 - August 23, 1975). He was a career Navy man who graduated from the Naval Academy in 1921 and won the Navy Cross (the second-highest military honor in the United States). He retired with the rank of Rear Admiral. As noted in the inscription, he was the last commander of the USS Monocacy (PG-20). Now if only I could afford the watch...

Hi everyone at the forum. I just service this lady Rolex cal.1160 and the reading is very good both dial up , dial down, after putting together ( i attached some pic. ) but then for couple hours the rate jump like crazy and the timegrapher can't even read, when it does read the rate goes crazy around +400 sec/day and the watch run 15 sec fast every minute.

Hello everyone This is my first topic post here on the Forum and this is my dilema... I recieved a Tudor mens movement ETA 2824-2 and i reset the 6 ocklock marker on the face but when i went to install the stem back into the watch, the only thing working now is the date and i can not change the Time. I did not use a screw driver when i removed the Stem for this was the first time opening a Tudor, so i believe that i may have done something to the keyless works. is there something i can do with out disassemble, or is that the only way? is there a link with a strip down of this or similar movement? Thank you for all your help. sorry, only have this picture, forgot to take one from the inside ~Omar

Can anyone advise on the desirability or potential demand for an item that arrived in a job lot from a well-known auction site? The last one mentioned here, the others are just for fun! I had great pleasure in unwrapping all the various bits that turned up and even found two movements that were ready to tick - in fact, one of them started ticking as I picked it out and put it to one side. A BFG 34 movement BFG1.jpg] A parts-only movement looked quite good quality but had only the numbers 781-1 on the plate. One of the principal reasons for buying the lot was not one but two Hopalong Cassidy watch dials. My early childhood cowboy hero. Hoppy1jpg.jpg]movement. Any observations? Just for interest's sake. Cheers John P.S. Having looked at the preview I can see that some of the pics are out of order. Deal with it! :crazysmile:

I love a good vintage watch and I was quite happy to get hold of this one. Yes - the dial is a bit shabby and the hands but I don't think I will do anything with that as I think it adds character to the watch - it is vintage after all. I understand that these Oysters were made before Rolex took over - am I wrong? Does anyone have any information in it?

Comment régler sa montre ? Une question évidente pour certains mais le réglage d’une montre obéit à des règles d’or dont le rappel n’est jamais inutile. Que les possesseurs de montres mécaniques à remontage automatique ne cèdent pas à la facilité : une montre gagne en précision si elle est remontée correctement et manuellement au préalable. Je ne remets pas en doute la capacité des mouvements du poignet des lecteurs sceptiques à remonter suffisamment leur garde-temps (à l’exception des malheureux malades de Parkinson) mais rien ne vaut un bon remontage manuel au départ ou après avoir épuisé la réserve de marche pour laisser la magie du remontage automatique opérer dans les meilleures conditions. La couronne et ses positions: La couronne d’une montre automatique dispose généralement de 3 positions : Position 1 : remontage Position 2 : changement de date Position 3 : changement de l’heure Le remontage se fait, cela ne s’invente pas, dans le sens des aiguilles d’une montre, en tournant la couronne de 6 heures vers midi. 30 tours suffiront pour une montre automatique. Dans le cas d’une montre mécanique à remontage manuel, vous ne pourrez que sentir quand le mouvement est remonté. Le changement de date est classé sous trois appellations. Le changement de date « traînant » qualifie les montres dont le changement de date est très long. Ainsi, on peut observer dans le guichet de quantième (la fenêtre indiquant la date) une moitié de 19 et une moitié de 20 à mi-course entre le 19 et le 20 du mois. Le sautant : vers minuit, la nouvelle date « saute » dans le guichet en passant instantanément d’un jour à l’autre. Une montre « à date rapide » permet de passer d’une date à l’autre grâce à la couronne sans nécessité de faire avancer l’heure. Dans le cas contraire, il convient de faire avancer les aiguilles jusqu’à la bonne date. Il existe une « zone de la mort » pour les montres. Non, il ne s’agit pas d’une histoire inventée, Il faut bel et bien éviter de changer la date quand l’aiguille des heures se situe entre 21h et 3h (le quart haut du cadran). Quand le processus de changement de date est à l’oeuvre, mieux vaut ne pas le déranger. Vos montres apprécieront ce comportement de gentleman qui vous caractérise si bien.