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Just got a usb camera for my stereo microscope. Made a video discussing the setup. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

a 1965 backset electric - found at flea market, not running, and in needs of some TLC. cleaned up and running again.

Here is my watch for the day, a Late 60s early 70s Vostok Amphibia on a shark mesh bracelet.

Unitas Calibre 6380 Disassembly Picture Walkthrough please order the pictures by name in ascending order! Servicing my first Unitas movement other than the widely popular calibre 6497/98, but instead a calibre 6325, I tasted blood and got wondering if there were any Unitas movements having a calendar complication, and indeed there were! This curiosity led me to the 6380 calibre which seems very similar to the 6325. Once I’ve cleaned and assembled my 6380, I’ll post a link to my assembly picture walkthrough (including lubrication suggestions) in a later post in this thread. I’ve really taken all Unitas movements that I’ve serviced to my heart. They are easy to work with as the parts are large and few, the design is very traditional - like a school book on how mechanical watches work - and they seem very reliable and robust. My timing machine for these movements has always shown great results. Perhaps I’ve been lucky but it's beginning to feel like a pattern.

Maybe not one you see every day, this 35mm Recta made by Muller & Vaucher. Probably dates from around 1950 and runs on their own 17j Recta G2 movement with a Breguet overcoil balance spring, since untangled from how it had first come to me as a non-runner. Unusually, the case back is also gold plated, I guess on the premise that if you didn’t move quickly enough, you got plated! The Recta brand goes back to 1898 and, according to Ranfft, became silent in 1984. Regards.

Hamazawa powered urika.Well worn and a bit erratic. Very sturdy case on this one.

1000 seems high if it's just a service and doesn't need parts. From the pics I can see the hairspring is in bad shape, possibly an easy adjustment, maybe not; the minute counter jumper is bent, adjusting those is a 'make or break' exercise often. Perhaps the staff is broken, if they are unavailable that would certainly push the price up several hundred bucks. It could be the estimate is high to cover eventuals, but might come out cheaper in reality. The above 250GBP seems in line with Swiss repair prices, probably similar in the U.S., for a straight service no extras.

You can buy a spray on Amazon https://images.app.goo.gl/7PDYpGa1X5aCR2nPA Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk

Somebody commented about the blue coating on Instagram and said it was layout fluid, or machinists blue as I referred to it earlier. Google Dykem layout fluid. As mentioned previously also it could be something else like a brushed or sprayed on masking fluid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For now.

Hello, I want ot show you my way to repair broken slipping end of the automatic mainspring. 1. Firstly I drilled mainspring and slipping end with 0,3mm driller. 2. I made the rivet 3. Mainspring and end riveted 4. Clinching the rivet with pliers 5. Rivet grinding with file and water paper 6. Mainspring installed in barrel 7. Completed. I have checked if it works well. I have 9 full turns of arbor before mainspring starts to slip at the barrel wall. I think it is quite good. Some service manual says that 8,5 turns is a good result. What do you think - is it good way to repair this malfunction?

Hi @AndyHull - ah there you are! Wondered what had happened as no 'Thanks' or 'Like' tag to earlier advice. To help further though ... ... a really useful resource is Dr. Roland Ranfft's website on watch movements. So if you google, for instance, ranfft EB8800 and click on the first link that comes up you'll see your movement along with those in the same family. On the left under 'Data' you can see the info that shows that these movements came with 0, 1, 17 or 21 jewels, run at 18,000 A/h etc. On the right you'll see the family information. In general then, yes, you can exchange parts within the same immediate family e.g. they have the same ligne size, same amplitude etc.. Most often a movement family starts with a base manual wind model ... then the next step is to add a date ... then a day ... then an automatic etc. No reason that a common part from one member of the family won't fit another movement in the same family. The maker of the watch (Adrem vs. Roxedo in your case) is not relevant ... it's the movement (family) that is. Your budget watch seems to be coming on nicely and is a really good (and cheap!) way to find your way around a movement etc.