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Seiko 70xx series are my favourite movements, there are lots of information on the web about them. The "My Retro Watches" youtube channel have a tutorial on the 7025, which is quite similar but with only date complication while the 7019 has date/day. There is a video of the disassembly and two videos on the assembly. Liani has a good tutorial on the assembly of the 7009, which is exactly the same as the 7019 but in yours there are two incablocs more than in the 7009. And finally I'm attaching the 7019 technical guide that you need for the dial side, and the 7005 technical guide you'll need for the train wheel side. Hope this helps. Seiko 7019A - Technical Guide (HQ).pdf Seiko 7005A - Technical Guide (HQ).pdf

It is not so. The machine was invented simply to allow the repairer to do something else while another place was being cleaned. There is nothing done by an old machine can you can't do by hand, including heating and shaking. It is certainly not required for a beginner hobbyst. Progress was instead reached with the introduction of ultrasound cleaning, which in fact is the only type of machine produced nowadays.

Nice stuff, i was wanting to do the same but in Brass, but very expensive for machines.

Hi Guys Just watched the vids and many thanks. I will try the peg wood and bag together. I'll let you know how it goes. Once again many thanks.

You mean Diashock, and I assume of the two legs type. Either use a single set of tweezers, slightly fit one side first then the other. Otherwise file and hollow a pegwood stick to match the size and proceed as in my video below. However I recommend that one learns to do that with tweezers, to develop dexterity for this and other tasks.

I agree with jdm 400%. Excellent advice.

Hey guys! Just wanted to thank you because of you guys sharing all this information I got to put back a similar citizen for my dad! I did not find any info on the movement (maybe did not use the right words) so took the thing apart blindly.... But just before putting back together I found this thread and got the manual someone shared! Thanks a lot.

I think the problem had existed before, the previous watch destroyer ha ha had shimmed the bridge with pieces of like aluminum sheet which got washed away as you cleaned. Finding/ fixing the fault comes first, but if to no avail, you may end up shimming the bridge. Is there any sign of gauging on mainplate? I cut a piece of transparent film off of cigarette boxes are wrappings and test shimming.

Nice one. My two "Big Qs" have their dates of manufacture stamped into the floor of the battery compartment, consisting of 3 numbers. The first two are the year and the third is the month, e.g. 827 = July 1987. Mind you, mine were assembled in Taiwan, so may have a completely different dating system from yours. According to Timex, these things run on their M135 movement although as one is a date model and one ain't, I'm taking that with a generous pinch of salt. Whatever, here's images of the non-date one. Regards.

I ended up buying the original glass and replace it myself. Got it for an OK price as well so all good now Here's a pic:

Welcome, where are you studying your course? I just graduated for my 3 year (and a couple of extra months) watch and clock course last month.

Welcome Koen to the forum

Hi Koen, Welcome to WRT forum.

have been wearing this recent acquisition for the last week. It ha san ETA2878 automatic movement and keeps great time. Unfortunately I struggle to see the hands when the light fades.

Unless one works regularely on same caliber, taking pictures can be priceless, I have always practiced and adivised it. The only time I get baffled is when I end up with extra parts. Best wishes.

agree with wls, its a walk away without baskets. The baskets for those have little hooks that hang on the three pins on the agitator, if you had to make them it would be a pita. As for jars, I think the the large straight neck paragon jars fit, but I haven't been able to get my hands on one .....you have to buy a case and shipping is more than the jars cost so haven't bothered (I only want them because they have screw on lids!). If anyone has tried them...I'd be interested if they in fact work

May I ask, how do you currently clean watch parts? Which advantages do you expect from an old machine, beside the fun spent on many days of refurbishing and parts searching?

No baskets are not a universal size and vary from maker to maker as do glass jars, I would walk away from those if they do not come with baskets or jars you could probably get a full set up of ebay at only slightly more than that purchasing every thing seperatley can soon add up. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-L-R-MASTER-WATCH-JEWELRY-PRECISION-CLEANING-MACHINE-JARS-BASKETS/273729671733?hash=item3fbb8f5235:g:ORoAAOSwJItcdFAu https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-L-amp-R-Master-Watch-Cleaning-Machine-/123667948632?hash=item1ccb2f2458%3Ag%3ASpMAAOSwdC5cdxac&nma=true&si=S8xUIy7ISRYEcR4YgSuN4Ith6kA%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I use all cleaning instruments, no single magic approach, especially on fifty years old dried oil.