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Thanks for al help pal.... I will check out the CWC diver tube and crown, I have a crown though, but I was hoping that I might find one original, but that seems long fetched maybe... like he T-Rex... he he ... How is things in Sweden?? Are the still winter or??

ok here we go: i have two of the same exact movement, caliber and make, waltham 1907 6/0 size. iam having the same issue with both of them. i took them apart cleaned and oiled them. mainspring is good in both. when i put the pallet fork in and wind the watch, iam not getting the snapping back and forth action from the pallet. if i operate it manually it spins the escape wheel just fine. when i take it out the train unwinds and its very smooth and i even get the little wind back at the end so i knowwww its not a mainspring problem, and i swapped pallets and pallet cocks in every combo possible and iam getting the same result in both movements. The pallet jewels are fine no chips or loose jewels. I really dont get it, i have never had this issue. as i said if i operate the pallet lever with tweezers and move them back and forth the escape wheel turns, but the pallet will not snap by itself. what in the world could the issue be. The fact that its happening in both movements using different but same parts makes it even more of a mystery. any ideas????

Reading jdrichrds advice woke me up, I and saswatch may be going down different roads. Thank you jd. I came out of hiding saswatch, sorry, sorry. So will you tell about the one with good jewel. PLEASE.

He got the pallets snap and runing but stops dial up. We got at least one pallet do the snap , I take it the same movement stop dial up. I don,t see how we came to oil pallets.Which one got the tight balance wheel. I am baffled where we are .

Cheers Mates. Look what I found!! An Doxa 300T Searambler from 1963, the year I was born. But this beauty have been heavily used over many years...so she need a little TLC.... So Im looking for some parts: casetube, stem and crown, glas, and glas gasket Someone the have some idee where to start the search?? As alway Im very glad for all the help that I get here !!! Thanks :-)

That is fantastic! So glad to be help get a vintage Timex back in service.

The epilame is really key, you have to do it. It's a weird quirk of an otherwise bulletproof movement. I think you could use pretty much any synthetic lube and it'd survive as long as you epilame the reversers.

Should be like finding a living T-rex i guess . The casetube could work from cousinsuk . They often have ones that works. As for the CWC diver. But finding a doxa crown? ??

Two rules I live with. 1) Allways let down the springs. 2) Never move the hands if any resistance is felt as it is a safe bet a tooth or teeth has been bent somewhere and you will only bend a few more.

It is easy to forget quite how much energy is in a spring. Even a tiny watch spring is capable of launching projectiles across the room, and mangling delicate components in the process. While letting down the spring on one of the Timexes I was looking at, I lost my grip and the entire watch literally flew past my ear on to the floor. Fortunately no damage was done, I was expecting a snapped seconds pinion or a damaged balance. I did have to do a bit of crawling about to recover a couple of parts however. The point is I guess, despite the fact that I was being particularly cautious I still managed to launch the thing in to orbit. Clock springs are an order of magnitude more impressive when they get loose, so I would suggest always wearing eye protection when there is a chance of them escaping.

If empathy is helpful, a torsion clock I spoke about a few weeks ago suffered badly bent teeth when the mainspring let go, at some stage in the past (well before I laid hands on it, I'm pleased to say). The pictures aren't brilliant but you can see the mashed up teeth between positions 6 & 7 o'clock on the wheel and at 8-ish o'clock on the barrel. I straightened the barrel teeth out OK, managed to find a spare in place of the damaged wheel and (after sorting out former a repairer's 'adjustments' to the pallets and fitting the correct suspension spring) the clock's now fine.

You could probably use a generic crown and tube from Cousinsuk if it's not important to have a Doxa crown. You will have to remove the crystal to see how it looks. If it's a normal flat mineral crystal or if it has a special shape.

You and old hippy wine the prize. It was a two stem watch and when I aligned to hike upward, I was able to lever the movement and with a pull it came out. I think Old Hippy also had the right technique, I was just a bit reluctant to pull on the crown.With no crystal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Top skills, Dan. Well done.

The Omega in those pictures is all original, it's a typical "25 years of service watch". These often had a printed Omega logo in the 70:s at least in Sweden while the ordinary Omega Geneva sometimes had a pearl shine and a golden embossed logo. Another thing with the 1030 you might encounter is that Omega tried out a couple of plates to cover the spot where the automatic winder from the 102X used to be, so that also is OK. I attach a photo of the variants. Since these versions were engraved on the back they don't have the right back cover. Personally I would avoid the ones with engraved backs.