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I just serviced a Ball pocket watch with a Hamilton 992B movement. Prior to servicing, the balance wheel would not self start and the amplitude was at best 130 degrees when running. After servicing, the watch did not run any better until I loosened the balance cock screw just slightly which then allowed the balance to self start and the amplitude to jump to 210 degrees. The balance pivots look fine and I was careful not to mix up the top and bottom balance jewels. Given that everything else looked good, is shimming the balance cock an acceptable procedure and if so what is used as a shim?

ETA part number #1485 https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?SearchTerm=eta+1485 It is listed with the Basic 2890 calibre.

I have found the oil chart. Numbers are different. The part you are after is correct, as I found a chart with the same number.

Hi Yes loosen the screw on the H/S stud, remove the stuud/ HS/ balance assembly. You can get half of the regulator split ring placed in groove or more than half as much as you can then place the regulator and cock in the midle section of your tweezers, using the tweezers as a press, press on both side of the tweezers to press the other half of the splig ring into the groove.the split will open just enough to let the reg ring slip into the groove. If need be I can post some pix, let me know, give me time to produce the pix. Regards joe.

That's got a Kif that should be disassemble-able. Rotate the spring and it should come out. You can use a piece of pegwood that's been cupped slightly to press gently on the spring while turning.

I think patience is one of the key factors in the discipline of watch cleaning... and a quick revisit to the high school chemistry lessons. I usually slept through these but some how some things sticked. Cleaning a watch is about chemistry since one wants to get rid off for example old oil and grease. So first we have to loosen up the old dirt, since it mostly are different kind of petrol residues we want to get rid off any kind of mild degreaser is good, any kind of petroleum product can be used. One have to patiently let it soak for a while before moving to the next stage. When the residues are nice and soft they can be cleaned off. To do this you have to expose the residues to an alkaline solution, this is the key component in any cleaning solution, to get an alkaline solution you can use sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solved in distilled water. Warning! A too strong solution will be extremely corrosive so you have to try which amount of chemicals you have to use, preferably test it on a couple of scrap movements. Nowadays I always use an ultrasonic cleaning machine. To rinse of the alkaline solution I usually rinse the parts first in chemically pure petrol and later in an 99.5% alcohol solution, the alcohol will bind all the water one might have missed to get away from the ultrasonic bath, it's the same trick used in cars to bind water in petroleum.. If there is rust on some parts I clean these later on with a slight acidic solution, white wine vinegar in distilled water works great. and then carefully rinse the solution off. For the pegging work in the jewels and any eventual rust removal I use my new favorite, bamboo toothpicks, these can be sharpened to extremely thin points and at the same time be gentle on the jewels. I always clean the palletfork and balance separately but this is just a thing I'm used to do. So the path for me when leaving the jewels in when cleaning is: 1. Use a petroleum product to solve oil and grease. 2. Use an alkaline to remove the oil. Use an acidic solution for rust removal. 3. Rinse first in a clean petroleum product. 4. Second rinse in an alcohol. 5.Peg jewels with a super sharp bamboo toothpick. To try to clean any old oil residue can be very hard but tips and tricks like this should work with any brand of watch even Oris, but I leave no warranties ;). The picture presents an Oris Cal. 718 ticking away one year after cleaning..

Most ultrasonic cleaners have a frequency around 40khz. It's sort of the standard, and any machine you get will be the 'correct' power as the transducer is sized for the size of the bath. I don't know about the little plastic ones that go for cheap. If you really want or need to clean cap/hole jewel assemblies assembled I'm not sure how successful you'll be with the regular solvents a hobbiest might use; the commercial pro cleaning solutions are definitely more effective. You can't really peg properly if it's assembled, which would normally compensate for a simpler cleaning ritual (lighter fluid etc.). Can you post a pic of the jewel assembly?

The general thinking is that modern alloy springs are stronger for the same dimensions. Usually it's not an issue, especially in older watches that may need a little boost anyway. There are also two alloys offered by Generale Ressorts (the primary maker of mainsprings), one they just refer to as "stainless" and the other is Nivaflex. The Nivaflex is definitely a little stronger. In an old 18s watch the little extra power would probably be welcome. On knocking (rebanking) in older American pieces- the American companies tended to flatten the ends of the balance pivots which reduced the amplitude in horizontal positions, bringing vert- horizontal closer. Replacements staffs from Switzerland would have rounded pivots, which if combined with a modern spring did present a good chance of rebanking. Though, the escapements on these old pieces have usually been "adjusted" so poorly that it cancels out.

"shiming" is not cricket. its like using beer can tin to shim a "con rod". vin

Thank you for the offer JerseyMo but I had both the stem and crown. Now everything is clean and oiled and back in place, gave me a surprisingly tough match to get it running with a strong clean beat. And no I didn't polish the glass, I cheated with a new one. If someone would have a fitting bezel i might have something to swap with....

You have to block the ratchet wheel with a block of wood.. On this movement Citizen marked the wheel with 3 lines as per industry practice but on earlier ones they (both) are not. Nice movement, I particularly like how smooth it winds. Anilv

Its a reverse screw thread. In fact both screws shown are.

Doesn't the triple slot screw indicate that it is reverse threaded and requires unscrewing in a clockwise direction?