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Myself, I employ a s different approach to the s to the problem with “flying parts” with a success rate of 6/0 my favor. I use (with extreme caution) a 2X2X1/2 inch Rare Earth Magnet, waving it around, over the floor and flat surfaces until it finds the part. For those that have no exposure to rare earth magnets, they can be outright dangerous, snapping your fingers if you get to close to any mass of ferrous metals. I am extremely cautious to keep it away from watch and/or tools, understanding it’s not a mix with watches. But if it’s the difference of finding or losing a part, I go with the less of two evils and have had good luck with the finds. Photoed below, well away from my work.

G'day Pip. Well my thought was that if you drop a magnet you upset the highly regular polarisation of the elements and it loses its magnetism (sorry if I'm a bit vague on that, high school science was a long time ago). If the transducer is vibrating the sides of the unltrasonic (again, my assumption which may not be the way it works) and the parts are sitting inside a jar likewise being vibrated, might that vibration not transfer to the parts, having the same effect as dropping a magnet - messing up the ordered polarisation of the elements? I haven't had a chance yet to have another look at the parts yet - will have to wait until the weekend - to see what's going on magnetism wise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries. Good luck fitting the pin, not the easiest job!

movement type ? If the movement runs without the center second, the problem lies there. If the teeth are correctly sized the gear would be over or under sized depending on the number of teeth. if the gear is of proper diameter and tooth count correct i think improper shape could cause a jam. inspect the teeth closely under magnification.If you can somehow get a picture of the movement online , do a tooth count.tooth much tension on retainer spring could also cause a problem

I use one like this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2L-DIGITAL-STAINLESS-ULTRASONIC-CLEANER-ULTRA-SONIC-BATH-TIMER-HEATE-WITH-BASKET/123299753924?epid=27019408168&hash=item1cb53cefc4:g:Sw4AAOSwup1b0Y--

".. the mystery Sicura (still awaiting its second hand, which is in the spare parts queue, does that sound strangely familiar to anyone)," hmm no rings no bells but just like a flash in the pan.. A mystery Sicura.. with all dial hands so It can't be me.

Andy you are inspiring so, fresh out of the timing machine onto the arm.. Can't say Acacia is a very common watch and that I have any extensive knowledge of the brand .. but I like the style... Black and spotty. The watch is powered by an AS 984.

If it's an extra wheel providing the drive for the seconds then this is known as 'indirect centre seconds' - example diagram below. If you have the wrong pinion i.e. the green shaded pinion one in the diagram then, yes, this should only effect the seconds hand in some way. Have you found a picture of your movement type on the web to compare the pinion?

Have you tried pushing the little button which, from your pic is just below the crown. Push gently and revolve the stem as you push it in.

Today I have been.. drilling very small holes, very carefully. Specifically I drilled one very small hole, by hand, in the case of this watch to remove the stub of a broken strap pin that was bonded into the case with the super strength that only many years of corrosion can achieve. It still needs a crystal, but here it is in all its 17 jeweled Germanic glory. I had to wear it of course to celebrate its return to fully functional. I've also included the pre-cleaning shot, complete with an interesting collection of finest handgelenk käse. .. and finally the "three amigos" .. the mystery Sicura (still awaiting its second hand, which is in the spare parts queue, does that sound strangely familiar to anyone), yesterday's Roxedo, and the F Hinds

Cousins do sell them, item S37393

I think I may start a new topic "Fail of the day". Here are some pictures of the EB 8800 and EB 8810 donors, getting a clean and service. The 8810 has a broken winder stem (with part of it still in situ), the 880 has no winder stem whatsoever. The 8800 was absolutely filthy, but the 8810 (the weird little pocket watch) looked like it had just come out of the factory. Both got a strip down and hand clean. I still haven't dug out the little ultrasonic cleaner yet. The "Fail of the day" involves the highly aerodynamic click spring from the 8810 which I fitted to the 8800, as the original is missing. I fitted it.. no problem, then decided to remove it again while figuring out which bits needed swapping to get the 8800 working. Removing it again, also went without incident, but re-fitting it was not so simple. I know these things have a tendency to click themselves instantly into another dimension, never to return, so I was being super cautious. In it went, on went the click wheel, one false nudge later and out flew the spring. No problem, it landed on my lap. I tried again, even more carefully, so carefully that I when I got to the same point in the process I had everything to hand. In went the spring, on went the wheel, screw was carefully placed... and then I fumbled the tweezers. I picked them up off the floor, or more accurately extracted them from the floor as they were actually embedded pointy end first in to the carpet, they are pretty sharp, and went back to work... no spring, wheel fallen off in tray, screw also in tray, but no spring... Much dark muttering, searching the work area and crawling round the floor later, I admitted defeat. It was gone. I then set about reassembling what remained. It was then I noticed the spring. Somehow it had landed on top of my large angle-poise illuminated magnifier. I cannot begin to imagine the path it traveled to wind up on the other side of a very large glass and metal lamp. I have a sneaking suspicion it used some quantum tunneling effect to pass straight through the thing. Launch pad, with missing spring. Spring prior to extraction and obviously prior to cleaning everything.This particular movement was filthy, with some corrosion pitting. I refitted again. This time holding my breath and carefully planning each move in advance. I even set up a couple of cardboard "reflectors" to bounce it back if it did take off again, but it went in without the slightest problem. I still need to remove the face, extract the pillar with the stud of the broken screw and if I can't extract the broken stud, swap it with the one from the 8810, but I've left that excitement for another day.

This is a 7750 converted to run the seconds hand at 12 for a replica AP ROO. They’re just pressed onto pinions. You need long levers or presto #3 to pull them off.

I started to blabber on about 99.9% of micrometer barrels are a very careful interference fit into the frame and I wouldn't try to remove it...when the brain says, "I think I have one of those". Yup, so I took it apart for you. Take the screw right out, its just a detent holding the barrel in the frame - you can see the dimple it sets in on the barrel. Put a block of wood underneath business end (anvil in micrometer parlance) and carefully screw the micrometer down into it. It will push the barrel out of the frame. The threads are very robust, much more so than a 40 tpi micrometer...after all its designed for pressing. It came out with minimal force, you won't hurt it apparently mine too needs a good cleaning....I wonder what might dissolve the grime without damaging the crinkle/wrinkle finished (that I wish I could do)