Narcissus

My exact listing is gone but the parts are: - Celestron Astromaster CG-3 - CME 2”/50mm 3 jaw Chuck

I’ve always been really impressed by the lapping machines that are used to achieve flat faces and crisp on cases. Although I don’t do enough case refinishing to warrant the price of a machine, I though maybe I could achieve a similar result with something home built. The impetus to try came when I bought an Omega Chronostop. The case came with a sunburst case finish that was long gone and would require precise brushing. I figured I could replicate the multi-axis adjustment by using a telescope head. Found one on eBay for $125. Then added a 3 jaw Chuck for $50. My only issue was that I needed to adapt the two together. Because the stress won’t be so high I figured I could just 3D print some adapters and it worked perfectly! The great thing about the resin printer is that the resolution allowed me to actually print the threading! Because the case is a top loader, there was no good way to hold it properly so I printed an adapter to screw on the back. All ready to go: I am really happy with the results! The case has some dings that I wish I could laser weld but alas I can’t built one of those on the cheap. Lol. My next step is to find a way to fasten everything down so I get more consistent engagement with the sander and recreate the angles consistently between checking my work. - Craig

Working on something similar. Cal 1556 day-date.

Laser won’t be the best. As these parts are likely already plated/polished , the laser will just bounce off. (I’ve tried). You want a diamond-drag cnc engraver.

My understanding is both are really just for setting hands. Neither do anything to clamp the movement (which was important to me). So I went with the Horia tool. Incredibly expensive but unmatched in quality. You can save $$ buying it directly from Horia.

Yes, unfortunately it’s a movement specific solution but I’m a bit of a tool fanatic so I don’t mind a tool for every task (within reason)

If you’re handy you might be able to replicate this handy tool. Rolex make a “casing up” movement holder. It has a pin to engage the stem release and a bump to grab a notch in the movement so it locks in. You never need to flip the movement or case upside down. Horia make them too: https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Stem-pusher/Tool-for-removing-stem-for-cal-ETA-2824-2.html

I use the back of my brass tweezers. No damaging the spring and they are roughly the same shape. The procedure mentioned above is what I do as well.

The aftermarket one should be fine. They pop right in and out. There is a little plate with notches that allow the disk to come out and go back in. Just set it in those notches, press the spring in, and it’ll drop in place: This is a Rolex datewheel (upside down) so it’s not the correct fit but you get the idea:

As far as I am aware, the 1601 is a non-quickset watch, meaning there is no date-change setting. You have to go all the way around in time-setting mode to advance the date. Sorry. The “gritty” winding could be any number of things (dried oil, worn gears, etc). The hands may have been misaligned during a previous service. If they truly are rubbing you’d see marks in the lower hands where the upper ones have rubbed. Do you see any such marks?

Agreed on Dumont tweezers. Screwdrivers and hand levers are VOH - haven’t used anything better than them.

Have you not watched Mark’s videos?! You’re on his website anyway he talks about this and the fact that it’s a cheap clone. You get what you pay for.

This is a 7750 converted to run the seconds hand at 12 for a replica AP ROO. They’re just pressed onto pinions. You need long levers or presto #3 to pull them off.

The 116610 uses a crystal retainer ring to hold the crystal and gasket on. These can typically only be removed successfully with a special Rolex tool. BUT if you’re determined you could slide a blade underneath it and work around until you create a gap large enough to pull it off. Pushing it back on requires a precise due that is just bigger than the crystal but small enough to still fit atop the slim ring. Part 319 is the retainer ring.

I’ve gotten the best results from 3 small drops, 120 degrees apart. It will slip for a little while the grease spreads but I’ve found that to leave behind even less than a full thin layer. You don’t want a lot. A friend gifted me with some Rolex TEPA and that stuff is amazing for barrel walls so I just use that now.