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  1. Yes, unfortunately it’s a movement specific solution but I’m a bit of a tool fanatic so I don’t mind a tool for every task (within reason)
  2. If you’re handy you might be able to replicate this handy tool. Rolex make a “casing up” movement holder. It has a pin to engage the stem release and a bump to grab a notch in the movement so it locks in. You never need to flip the movement or case upside down. Horia make them too: https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Stem-pusher/Tool-for-removing-stem-for-cal-ETA-2824-2.html
  3. I use the back of my brass tweezers. No damaging the spring and they are roughly the same shape. The procedure mentioned above is what I do as well.
  4. The aftermarket one should be fine. They pop right in and out. There is a little plate with notches that allow the disk to come out and go back in. Just set it in those notches, press the spring in, and it’ll drop in place: This is a Rolex datewheel (upside down) so it’s not the correct fit but you get the idea:
  5. As far as I am aware, the 1601 is a non-quickset watch, meaning there is no date-change setting. You have to go all the way around in time-setting mode to advance the date. Sorry. The “gritty” winding could be any number of things (dried oil, worn gears, etc). The hands may have been misaligned during a previous service. If they truly are rubbing you’d see marks in the lower hands where the upper ones have rubbed. Do you see any such marks?
  6. Agreed on Dumont tweezers. Screwdrivers and hand levers are VOH - haven’t used anything better than them.
  7. Have you not watched Mark’s videos?! You’re on his website anyway he talks about this and the fact that it’s a cheap clone. You get what you pay for.
  8. This is a 7750 converted to run the seconds hand at 12 for a replica AP ROO. They’re just pressed onto pinions. You need long levers or presto #3 to pull them off.
  9. The 116610 uses a crystal retainer ring to hold the crystal and gasket on. These can typically only be removed successfully with a special Rolex tool. BUT if you’re determined you could slide a blade underneath it and work around until you create a gap large enough to pull it off. Pushing it back on requires a precise due that is just bigger than the crystal but small enough to still fit atop the slim ring. Part 319 is the retainer ring.
  10. I’ve gotten the best results from 3 small drops, 120 degrees apart. It will slip for a little while the grease spreads but I’ve found that to leave behind even less than a full thin layer. You don’t want a lot. A friend gifted me with some Rolex TEPA and that stuff is amazing for barrel walls so I just use that now.
  11. Screwdriver preference is quite a personal thing round here so good luck getting a consensus I’ve had Bergeon and wasn’t that happy with them so I got a set of VOH. Now they are amazing. Can’t speak for Horotec but I’d skip Bergeon for screwdrivers. Good luck
  12. Agree with all above. The Bergeon extractor has been hit/miss for me as well. Good luck!
  13. Agree with all above. The Bergeon extractor has been hit/miss for me as well. Good luck!
  14. Same as mentioned. Gears, stems, precision you'll want a watchmakers lathe. Case work, movement rings, etc you'll get more mileage out of a minilathe. Or better yet, as my watchsmith mentor suggested to me, a vertical mill
  15. Yeah bud, The crystal retainer is still on there. You'll need a good four bladed bezel remover or something very strong. It looks like one piece when installed but it does come off. Good luck.
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