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  1. Some of the advantages are in the summary that you've linked to. I find them nice and stable with a firm grip on the movement and if you line the movement up right you have cut outs for the stem and dial screws. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I was responding to JDM's suggestion that you print a 7S26 movement holder. They can be a better way of holding a movement while you're working on it that the usual metal movement holder that screws tighter to grip your movement. Here is one holding a Seiko 6309 movement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Seller Hal0eight on eBay (also known as VTA or VintageTimeAustralia) currently sells a 3D printed movement holder for the Seiko 7S series of movements, as well as other common Seiko movement families. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Welcome Nobby. Although I live at the opposite end of the world (Tasmania, Australia), my mother comes from the IoW (Shalfleet) and I've spent a little time on the island. Take heart, I'm a low level tinkerer who has certainly made things worse in the past, but I've also completed a number of successful services. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Cousins is listing the GR2534x as a substitute - 1.05x.115x420x10.5. More expensive (£16.50) than they're selling the GR25341x suggested above (£7.95). They appear to have the same dimensions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Take a screwdriver that's slightly too large for the gap in the C. Place it in the gap and twist. The screwdriver will force the gap apart and the clip will lift slightly. You will then be able to pop another screwdriver under the clip and lift it off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hey guys. As Pip said, the Grand Seiko high end sub brand has been around a long time - since the 1960s. Throughout that time they've been high end mechanical and some high end quartz watches. The quality is certainly as good as high quality Swiss stuff. As for the spring drive, it's driven by a mainspring - not a battery and step motor. It does have a quartz element - there is a 'brake' that regulates the movement and this 'brake' is controlled by a circuit (I'm not sure without reading up whether this circuit gets its power direct from the mainspring as it is released or if there is any stored power). Either way, this is very sophisticated technology and in no way comparable to a kinetic watch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Welcome from Hobart. I'm curious to see what you stashed away in a box all those years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Yes, that is probably what is needed. If you have a link to one for sale, that would be great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I had one of those for a while. If I'd known it was the "holy grail" I would have asked more when I sold it [emoji2] Like yours, mine had a knock to the crystal - but at around 9 o'clock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Well the dial side was a lot trickier than the train side. After a few goes I managed to get it all lined up and working correctly. Unfortunately, there are no signs of life. Using my multimeter the coil tests good, the battery is good, but there are no pulses emitting from the circuit [emoji22] Looks like I'll be keeping my eyes open for a donor 1337 or 1332 from which to salvage the circuit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I managed to find time today to finish cleaning and rebuilding the gear train today. Everything seems to be working properly with regard to the two magnets between the second and centre wheels. When the second wheel is inserted into the centre wheel there is quite obvious resistance pushing the two wheels apart. Win! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I'm guessing Stefan is a well known seller of vintage Seiko parts. He's on a couple of the forums under the name Seikochrono or schillachi61. He sells on eBay under the name schillachi61. He often has parts he hasn't listed on eBay so shoot him a message with a specific request. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. G'day Pip. Well my thought was that if you drop a magnet you upset the highly regular polarisation of the elements and it loses its magnetism (sorry if I'm a bit vague on that, high school science was a long time ago). If the transducer is vibrating the sides of the unltrasonic (again, my assumption which may not be the way it works) and the parts are sitting inside a jar likewise being vibrated, might that vibration not transfer to the parts, having the same effect as dropping a magnet - messing up the ordered polarisation of the elements? I haven't had a chance yet to have another look at the parts yet - will have to wait until the weekend - to see what's going on magnetism wise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hi all. I've occasionally found answers to watch repair questions here, but have not joined up until now. My handle will be familiar to one or two of you who're active on the Seiko-focussed SCWF and Wrist Sushi forums. Hi guys. I've been into Seiko watches for at least eight years, almost exclusively vintage, and I've acquired a few vintage Swiss watches along the way. While I've done a lot of case strip downs and gasket and crystal replacements, I've also tried my hand at the odd simple mechanical movement service and a few Seiko 7546/8s. My latest project is a non-running Omega 1337 movement that seems clean but is non-running. The coil tests as good, but we'll have to see about the circuit when I get it back together. This forum has the only strip down threads on this movement I can find, so I'm using Lawson's thread on the topic as a starting point. Oh, I hale from Tasmania, off the south east coast of Australia. Thanks for having me, Tristan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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