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Not a question, but I thought I'd post this for general info. I was really struggling to get the amplitude above 190 deg on an Omega cal 613. I'd fitted a new mainspring, and all the pivots looked straight and clean. Gear train running freely, barrel arbor not sticking, no loose jewels, and jewels looked good under the microscope. Hmmm I always have a good look at the jewels to make sure they are clean and not broken, but have never bothered checking one area - inside the Incabloc hole jewel. The cap jewel and top of the hole jewel looked good, but it was only when I looked underneath I found the problem. I don't know what the black bits are. They had been cleaned twice in my ultrasonic in lighter fluid, then IPA. Obviously not enough, not easy to get a brush in there. I put in new jewels and now have 275-280 deg amplitude Another item for the check list !

The winding means the stem is attached, so we are back to ghartman diagosis, the dial plate is rotating. First we need to check online for movements diagram to see if dial came with feet? Braking the feet with the movement in the housing, is not a job for an ordinary man, so you would as well need a bus for taking to vacation ,the kids you are going to have . Second if you actually managed to break the feet. I agree with ghaftman to use double side tape. And last but not least , this is not a big job, don,t let the repairman rip you off. Good luck Regards

This beauty arrived today. My first jeweling tool. So excited

Hi Dave, well done. I recently serviced a Rolex like your Dad`s for a friend. Nice watch. Keep on learning you are doing OK. Regards, Mike.

Welcome to this friendly forum.

The hands appear to be telling the correct time so it would be just the dial that is revolving. I have a passion for Tissots and have some dating back to the 50's but never known this to happen. Yes the dial feet can break off but both at the same time? and usually when your removing the dial. Tissots usually fit into a grommet in the movement instead of the usual movement edge screw. Are you sure its a Tissot????

Hello LMDAVE, On this friendly forum before making a post for help or advice. We like new members to introduce themselves. Just say a little about what you do and about yourself. We like that to go into the Introducing Yourself Here. This is the link. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/forum/23-introduce-yourself-here/

This is fairly common failure. Usually, there is a means to attach the dial to the movement to keep them together. In most watches this is done via little tabs or studs that poke off the back of the dial and are held in place with set screws. It looks like those feet probably broke off, likely due to some large shock or vibration. A half-assed fix is to just glue the dial to the movement, but that's a bad practice as it make future repairs harder. The right way is to replace the broken dial feet. A reasonable middle ground is to use some non-permanent double-sided tape.

So, I’ve started to reassemble my grandfather’s ETA 1080 and went about it as I always do, with the train wheels. However, when mounting the train wheel bridge I just couldn’t get the pivot of the escape wheel to reach into the cap jewelled pivot hole on the bridge (seen in the first picture in my first post above). Scratching my head, I removed the escape wheel and inspected it, suspecting the pivot might be damaged. It was not, it looked perfect. So, I tried it again and by holding down the bridge with some peg wood, I could get the pivot to just barely reach into the jewel hole. Yet, as soon as I tried to secure the bridge the pivot would fall out of the hole. Having struggled with this for probably more than half an hour, I began to feel pretty frustrated. I’m not a very technical person, I don’t have a lot of experience of watch repairing, and in all honesty I guess I’m not too smart, but all of sudden I realized, or rather remembered, that the jewel hole on the dial side has a cap jewel as well and that the escape wheel pivot on the dial side probably fell too deep into the jewel hole as I hadn’t mounted its cap jewel. Said and done, I oiled the cap as instructed above (it worked out perfectly, thanks!), mounted it on the dial side and then tried to mount the train wheel bridge again. Bingo! This time around the escape wheel pivot reached into to the jewel hole on bridge perfectly. At this point, I felt pretty proud of myself! Well, just thought I’d share in case someone else who’s new to cap jewels happens to find this thread in the future. I'll try nickelsilver's method the next time around which would have eliminated this problem. Thank you all for helping out!

Still not to your specifications, but the Seagull ST2130 (ETA clone) is a reasonable inexpensive 28.800 bph, be it an automatic. Perhaps Seagull has more 28.800 bph, but without date & hand-wound? Not sure, but I think it's worth to check Seagull out......