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qhartman last won the day on September 10

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  1. This is fairly common failure. Usually, there is a means to attach the dial to the movement to keep them together. In most watches this is done via little tabs or studs that poke off the back of the dial and are held in place with set screws. It looks like those feet probably broke off, likely due to some large shock or vibration. A half-assed fix is to just glue the dial to the movement, but that's a bad practice as it make future repairs harder. The right way is to replace the broken dial feet. A reasonable middle ground is to use some non-permanent double-sided tape.
  2. Honestly most of those mass produced luxury watches use the same movements, they are just the ones that have been finished better and have been tested to be more accurate. ETA produces the same movement in many different grades, and the higher grades will go in the more expensive watches. But even so, if you shop for just the movements, even high grade ETA movements aren't a ton more expensive than lower grade ones. Think $100 vs $80. That kind of scale. What folks are really paying for there mostly are Superior finishing and brand. When you get into bespoke and highly modified movements though, then you're talking about something else. If accuracy is your goal, get quartz, especially high accuracy quartz (HAQ). Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  3. Oh, so my point is, if it's something you want to table for fun and learning, do it! See how well you can get them running. I probably wouldn't pay to have them worked on though. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  4. It's probably possible to get movements in that class to be more accurate. I have a Hamilton that consistently hits COSC specs. I've heard of someone (maybe here?) getting a Seiko 5 to run around +2. But, numbers like that aren't normal. The accuracy of a particular movement is largely a function of the accumulation of tiny flaws in manufacturing of all the parts. Lower end movements that haven't been painstakingly gone over will have more tiny flaws and will be less accurate. As long as my variance is within spec for the movement, or if you can't find that, within +- 20 with good amplitude, I wouldn't worry about it much. Also, how are you measuring? If you're not using a timegrapher, the results are going to be suspect. I was using an app (toolwatch) to track the accuracy of my watches, and it was all over the map. Turns out, that was mostly due to user error. I borrowed a friend's timegrapher to get a real look at how they were doing, and they were all fine. I'm probably going to get one for myself soon here, they've gotten to be fairly cheap. More info: http://www.wristtimes.com/blog-1/2014/6/24/how-to-use-a-timegrapher Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  5. qhartman

    screw on back vs snap on back

    Awesome, thanks for sharing those! Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  6. qhartman

    screw on back vs snap on back

    Ok. I've never seen it on the lower end stuff of that era, except pocket watches. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  7. qhartman

    screw on back vs snap on back

    Case tubes are generally just held in by the crown. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  8. qhartman

    screw on back vs snap on back

    It will depend on the watch. Usually watches put together this way have a two part stem. More detail: http://watchfix.info/Battery%20Replacement/One%20Piece%20Case/Battery%20Change%20on%20a%201%20piece%20case.php Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  9. qhartman

    Journal; What To Put In?

    I haven't stripped a movement to this level yet, but when I work on laptops I take photos and either print them or annotate them digitally and mark the location of every part I remove with a number. Then, in the case of screws or other very small parts, I tape them to a sheet of paper with the number corresponding to the number I used in the photo, and any extra notes that might be useful for reassembly. A small part tray with separate compartments would be preferable for watch parts I imagine.
  10. qhartman

    screw on back vs snap on back

    If you don't have the usual tells, it can be tough. I just spent days fighting with a caseback on a pocket watch that I was sure had to be screw off, but I've come to the conclusion it wasn't meant to come off at all. Information on the specific watches would help. If you know how old they are, that can help inform things. Earlier than the 80's or so (I'm not an expert so don't use this as a hard date) screw backs were pretty rare. Especially on cheaper watches like Timex, those are almost always snap backs, or you have to pop the crystal and go in from the front. If the back splits the crown with the front, it's almost certainly a snap back, as the movement is meant to be removed from the case without taking the stem out.
  11. qhartman

    Is this to far gone?

    Yeah, the movement looks decent. If you've got a decent looking dial, hands, crystal, etc. seems fixable. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  12. qhartman

    Stem - too lube, or not...

    No experience with this movement, but I would think even if it's not necessary, it couldn't hurt so long as you us a light touch with it. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  13. qhartman

    Is this to far gone?

    Yeah, if you do anything, definitely go the additive route. But again, it will take a lot of work to make it look decent. It's really only something I would do if it were a labor of love sort of situation. A collector isn't likely to want something that has had that level of restoration work done on it. Assuming it doesn't feel bad on the wrist, I'd be inclined to leave it as-is.
  14. qhartman

    Is this to far gone?

    Yeah, definitely not for the faint of heart. I've done similar work and it takes forever. If you're patient though, you can get good results. For those interested, here's a primer on the technique: http://jewelrymonk.com/2014/08/05/how-to-solder-and-fill-a-pit/ It would be a bit different here givens the size and quantity of the pits, but not too different. The biggest change would be for the big, wide pits I wouldn't do the wire technique, I'd just try to flux and flow solder into them en masse. One thing I would add is to start with hard solder to do your first round, then go to medium solder, then to easy. That way each layer you add requires less heat and you don't melt out your previous work.
  15. qhartman

    Is this to far gone?

    Yeah, I hadn't even considered that. Definitely would not try to work out that pitting. I can't imagine there would be enough left that it would remain sound.