Leaderboard

I would say it is split stem. Have you any idea what calibre it is. This site might help in identifying the watch. https://www.watchophilia.com

Your advice was of great help. I pulled out the crown and the stem split in two. Now I can look at the whole movement. Thank you for helping me out.

Must a split stem . You should be able to see it if you look down the crown tube . There is no other way to get that stem out or even in if there isn't a split stem on that.

I am not a professional watch maker but a Jobber Fixer (most anyway!). I use a basic U/S cleaner 40KHz and for cleaning fluid I use NAPHTHA (panel wipe medium-fast) from my local auto paint shop. It is a very good de-greaser and cleaner and it is about £12 for 5 litres. For Balances and very sticky unserviced movements I use ACETONE. The best de-greaser and oil killer I have ever found. I also lightly brush the components as well. Then a final clean with FRESH NAPHTHA and leave the components to dry. I never filter used Naphtha or Acetone as one can only filter solids and not the oil contamination. Just my proven method which has worked very well for me on many watches.

I've tried loads and loads of fluids all the jewelery ones the ones that come with the cleaners and many home made concoctions, but at the end of the day I use L&R cleaning fluid with amonia for cleaning, I use it in a small glass jar sat in water in my cleaner (small amount doesn't smell at all) the cleaner is fantastic, cleans great all and shines plates and wheels niceley, I won't use anything else now. As for rinsing I use alcohol, ie isopropyl, I use two jars for this, one for rinse one and one for rinse two, same method as when cleaning. For drying I borrowed my daughters hello kitty hairdryer, such a low speed and warm it's perfect for drying parts. The cleaning fluid I get from cousins, its about £30 for 3 litres but add on postage and it's nearer £50, but that 3 ltrs has lasted me nearly a year. And to be really stingy I filter it through coffee filters and use that stuff for case and strap cleaning applications.

Lovely work there and niceley rescued, im still at the stage of turning brass rods into filings on my lathe, not enough time practicing as of yet so havent started turning steel yet.

Thanks, Rogart63. I've confirmed that they are left hand threads. Yes, it is an alarm movement.

You are correct it is friction fitted. When removing you MUST remove with an even pull to avoid damage. Re-fitting should be done with a staking tool to ensure a straight push.

I have not worked on that calibre but I would think the wheel should come off using a puller.. I'm surprised the bridge came off with the wheel attached. The wheel removing tool required. I think this is the calibre that was serviced. https://thewatchbloke.co.uk/2015/05/13/bulova-calibre-11/

I have used this solution too with my ultrasonic cleaner giving very good results. Strange how parts turned to soot almost as though some carbon has attached. Maybe the solution was too strong or too hot. I use my ultrasonic mainly for clock parts and I now use Elma 1:9 which is also giving very good results.

No my friend it is a totally different site/forum, again very helpful bunch with a wealth of knowledge on the subject of self builds, there is even a submariner/oyester sub forum on there.

I went for these. Heavy base, individual lids and all in one place.

This is the type I had. There rather old.

I don't know what other people do, do I wipe them out first with household paper towels, then watch paper, which is just lint free paper, and finally I press some old rodico into it to remove any fibers from the papers. Other than for applying grease to the barrels I usually just use me smallest oiler for everything else on watches. To get an idea if you are applying too much oil assemble and oil a watch, wear it for a week and then strip it down. If you see oil has crept all over the place you have used too much and use less next time. I never realised I was over oiling until I stripped down a watch I had previously serviced when first starting.

This is worth a read if you want a better understanding of Amphibias; http://forums.watchuseek.com/f54/vostok-amphibia-analysis-design-methodology-491757.html

Check if it's actually broken first. If it is you could find a new one on Ebay. There are sellers that sell new crowns . Be careful when changing the crown and stem as the keyless works is easy to mess up. Press down and pull out.

I think you need to check it is actually broken first. Vostok Amfibia use a rather clever clutch so the crown is only engaged with the movement when changing the time. They are meant to wobble around like they are broken. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro