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That's very kind jdm. Its things like this which I like about this forum.

PM with your address and I'll send you these.

I’ll get a new ms on Tuesday evening then when I meet with my sensei and see if that does anything. I’ll also get him to look at it, I think it may be pivot port wear as they are all steel. I’ll be back! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pin lever ? The wheels look a little dirty. But as long as it's clean and there is no dirt between the cogs it's should work . The mainspring is toast i think.

I can't tell what is wrong with the escapement, but that mainspring needs to be replaced.

There are two common problems that can cause this phenomenon of poor timekeeping. What does the customer use to compare the watch to? Specifically how does the customer know the watch is fast or slow. Sometimes customers will look at a variety of time sources none of which are on time and or use time sources that are less accurate than the watch. Then this is an automatic the problem with automatics are they need movement to stay wound up. Not all customers are active enough to keep their watch wound up. As people get older they're not necessarily as active as they once were or the lifestyle changes variety of reasons they keep automatic watches from getting enough movement to stay wound up.

Today i think i was the lucky one. I got this one at eBay! Its a 3mm. !!

Evening all, I have an Adina badged version of a DPW Z1000, http://www.deskdivers.com/Site/candino1000.html, I was recently quoted near 1000 Aussie dollars for a service, reseal and crystal change on my old diver. As it only cost me 500 over 20 years ago I politely declined. Now as I seem to have a number of automatic watches that all need some TCL Im looking at learning a bit about watch repair, yes Mark your course is on the agenda. So while waiting for funds for the course and tooling up I've started planning ahead and I'm looking at acquiring parts, for the Adina that would be a crystal, crystal seal, crown and case back seal. Easier said than done as I have not pulled the watch apart and measured things (beyond current competencies without tools or stuffing it completely), have no parts list and basically clueless as to where to look for obsolete watch spares. Doesn't help that DPW no longer exists. So only a few minor issues and a near vertical learning curve. The Adina has a eta 2824-2 movement so it won't be the first movement I play with, it can wait to I at least have some idea of how to go about it, it may take a while to find the bits regardless. So does the collective here have any idea of where parts for this watch may be available? Cheers

He is a great guy this Mehima . Have some contact with him thru other channels . He tries to help if he can. Bought up Seiko stock so he has a lot of parts .

Very kind indeed jdm. I remember when I couldn’t find these, eventually sourced them from http://mehima-singh.com/ who were not cheap but certainly very efficient and shipped quickly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recommend, using a medical stethoscope first. vin

Put it in a plastic bag or put some plastic foil over when you put i back.

Time for an update on this... which appeared to have suffered a few challenges over the years. 1. Bellows Some research led me to discover that I needed about 1”Hg vacuum inside the leaky capsule. We still make some old bellows at work and have equipment which might have done this job... a vacuum bell jar with an inductive heating coil inside. Sadly I only had one part to practice on and I didn’t want to ruin it... nor break the equipment! So I found the original hole and made a new short piece of brass pipe and soldered it into the capsule in the same way as the others and made a vacuum pump from a syringe and bicycle tyre valves. This all worked well and whilst I couldn’t measure the vacuum, the capsule contracted down to the same height as the others with the best vacuum I could get. All was good until I tried to crimp the brass tube so I could cut it off and solder closed. I had hoped that it wouldn’t leak in this process, but sadly I was wrong. If I’d had plenty of brass tube then I could have had a few more attempts, but I’d had to make what I had from a brass bolt and didn’t fancy turning loads of them, even if I’d had any more suitable bolts. In the end I decided to do a temporary fix until I had more time to play, so I held the capsule compressed in a vice and soldered it shut. When released from the vice it retained about 50% of the compression. So it now has a little more air than it should do inside which will make it slightly temperature sensitive, but probably no other effects. The end piece of the bellows which connects to the lever arms was a home made replacement (possibly the bellows has been taken from another barograph), and the link pin hole was in the wrong place. I modified that today after the pictures below were taken. 2. Case I had to strip all this apart as it was warped and the joints were loose, plus the drawer didn’t fit properly. I managed to retain most of the original varnish then waxed with Liberon black bison paste 3. Lever mechanism I stripped all this down and cleaned the brass and polished all the pivots. Cleaned the dried up ink out of the nib and the bottle. All the brass had a grained finish so I refinished in the same way, without making it look brand new. I was going to use horological lacquer on the brass, but it didn’t seem to be finished that way in the first place so I opted for a coat of clockshine wax from Meadows and Passmore. I've never used that before so we’ll see how it goes. I can always strip it and lacquer later, but stripping off lacquer in the future would be a pain. Bought new charts and ink from Barometer world and voila... I still have to service the clock but since it is going I wanted to run it for a couple of weeks to see if it has any issues. I’ve had it running for a few days and made some calibration adjustments (there are a couple of option holes on the linkage); all seems good now but really need some bigger swings in atmospheric pressure to be sure. More to follow when I strip the clock down (one day)

Crap! Sorry guys i thought i loaded them but i guess they didn't load sorry here they are. Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

This is the type I had. There rather old.

Our members are from all over the world. Horology is a wonderful profession and extremely satisfying.

I don't know what other people do, do I wipe them out first with household paper towels, then watch paper, which is just lint free paper, and finally I press some old rodico into it to remove any fibers from the papers. Other than for applying grease to the barrels I usually just use me smallest oiler for everything else on watches. To get an idea if you are applying too much oil assemble and oil a watch, wear it for a week and then strip it down. If you see oil has crept all over the place you have used too much and use less next time. I never realised I was over oiling until I stripped down a watch I had previously serviced when first starting.

Normally it is a positional error. Did you test the watch in all positions. Some wear a watch crown up some wear dial down some remove the watch at night etc etc. I have found the biggest culprit is the balance end shake is to great. If so and if you have the correct equipment you can adjust the lower jewel setting with fractions of a mm making a huge difference. Side shake is another head ache altogether.

Why don't you wear it yoursef for a week to verify first what you're being told.