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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I haven't been doing much watch wise, but lots of work on watch tools. I ended up needing to make a bunch of parts for a lever action tailstock for a small Schaublin lathe. I have the factory main casting and quill (the critical parts) but all the auxiliary bits are missing. The lathe is a duplicate so fortunately I had a set of parts to copy from. First is the tailstock drawbar. Toughest part was it’s a 11.75 mm metric buttress thread. For those not familair, look at the collet; the flanks are 45 and 5 degrees vs every other thread that is symetrical. It took longer messing about grinding the tool than cutting the thread, but it worked out well – its for a W12 collets Next up, is the tailstock lever. Not particularly difficult, but man, it was a lot of whittling! Files and die grinder mostly after roughing to shape in the mill. The turned portion I did by measuring the existing one, making grooves every ½” to the right depth, then roughing and finally finishing by hand turning. I stuck the dull end of a 1” boring bar out in front of the work grabbed a large radius nose tool (maybe 1.5” radius, ½” tool bit) in a pair of vise grips and went at it as you would with a graver in a watchmakers lathe. Paint is sprayed via airbrush, with talc in it to reduce the gloss. In the last pic, I have some touch up to do….the quills were slightly different dia so I had to grind a bit out of the inside so it would fit. Its watch tool related, but for a sure little different for this site so thought you might find it interesting....now back to the salt mine!
  2. 1 point

    Help please

    This is the nearest that I can find here; https://www.yoycart.com/Product/43654294618/# 型号 US1620 标准电压 3V 标准容量 17mAh 使用温度 -20℃~+60℃ 直径 16mm 高/厚 2.0mm 产地 日本 保质期 10年以上 This is for a motherboard battery complete with solder tags and wired plug but the battery is the same. The spec sheet for the LIR1620 mentioned above is here; Lir1620.pdf As far as I can see the voltage is different (3.0v against 3.7v) and the capacity is different (17mAh against 10mAh). The physical dimensions are the same.
  3. 1 point

    Help please

    We really need the Sony tech sheet but the battery chemistries the same it stands to reason it's probably the same for functionality. Probably the reason the Sony battery isn't available it's an OEM part I probably only sell to manufacturers of watches.
  4. 1 point

    Help please

    There is a never ending list of suitable candidates for that category. It's part of what keeps it fun!!
  5. 1 point

    Help please

    Good to know. So we can now file another item for the 'weird and ineffective designs' chapter.
  6. 1 point

    Help please

    Not correct. The Ingersoll Navigator rechargeable watch that the OP describes is just that.... rechargeable. It comes with a plastic stand which has a coil embedded in it and plugs into a power supply, recharging the watch by electromagnetic induction. I couldn't say whether or not the battery that the OP has is original to the watch, but the watch most certainly does need a rechargeable battery.
  7. 1 point

    Help please

    The rechargeable battery is not original to the watch. It has been fitted by someone that didn't had anything better at hand. It may also be of the wrong size, one would need to look at the mov.t to confirm. Rechargeable batteries are only used in Seiko Kinetic, or solar watches
  8. 1 point

    Bergeon screwdriver size

    Ok, if you are only considering ergonomics than its fine!
  9. 1 point
    Making parts can be very time consuming. It can also be a lot of fun. When you have produced something as good as what you have its worth it in the end. Congratulations to you.
  10. 1 point

    Please Help Me Fix My Tawatec Watch?

    Almost certainly you will have to replace mov.t. Gaskets sizes are measured with a metric digital caliper.
  11. 1 point
    Sally Beauty has them? Sweet! There’s one nearby.
  12. 1 point

    Unitas 6497 shock spring replacement

    I managed to file the hinge, put it in the slot, turned it 90 degrees and it wouldn’t go down. Stands upright, looks perfect but will not move/close. I’m going to call it a day. It’s annoying but the movement is good for stripping it down, lubrication and re-assembly, I don't need it for anything else. If I exaggerate, I think this is where the difference is:
  13. 1 point

    Retrofitting a hairspring

    I will. Btw look for Tissot 2141 as that is essentially the same movement. Like this ebay 163044591097 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&Tissot_2141
  14. 1 point
    It might help if you tell us what watch you are working with, there are many different methods of fixing a crystal, I think @oldhippy may be thinking of the wrong type. So, if you trying to mount a sapphire crystal into an l-gasket on a Seiko watch, then you are best off using the original l-gasket if it is serviceable. If not, then purchasing the OEM replacement is the way to go I think. The replacement crystal should be the exact same diameter as the original. There are other people here with more experience with this type of crystal than me, hopefully they will chime in. Ultimately, it is experience that will determine whether or not you will break crystals. I just cracked one yesterday, it was an acrylic that needed finishing to fit properly, and I got a bit too enthusiastic :-) I've been doing this for a while, too. Good Luck
  15. 1 point

    BHI 2018 Examinations

    Hi Olivier! I was going to email you about the mechanical watch exams. Hope they went well. @oldhippy, regarding the exam format, I used to agree with what you are saying, ie. all you need is to learn on the job, and if you can “do it” then that proves that you know it. However, I’ve changed my mind after completing the BHI courses. The theory exam uses various methods to prove that you understand from first principles how everything works. It’s the only simple means that they have of determining that you really understand an aspect in depth. So for example, they ask you to explain via diagrams and text how the drive is delivered from the crown to the winding pinion. Some people will make the mistake of thinking that the stem directly drives the winding pinion for example. All of the theory behind metallurgy I’ve learned through the course syllabus, and it’s just not something that I’ve learned through experience. I notice that many people on this forum know little about the subject - eg. the correct carbon content and temper for a wristwatch screw. A few of us “watchies” struggled more with the clock theory questions. And we realised that it would have been much easier if we’d spent more time physically working on them. So that in itself proves that working on the job helps to aid your understanding of theory. Or alternatively, your understanding of theory proves that you’ve worked on the job..... I think one of the best things about the BHI is that they set a benchmark for the standard of work which watchmakers provide. I’m not saying that anyone who posts here is a “bodger”, but we’ve all opened up enough watches which have been mucked about with by other watchmakers. The practical exams let you prove that you can work to a certain standard, and the theory exams reinforce that by showing that you understand how it works underneath. For me at least, I know that my watchmaking (and clockmaking) skills have improved massively since studying the Theory and Practical courses, and I suppose that’s the main thing that matters for me.
  16. 1 point

    Watch Lume first attempt

    Thats a fine job. Are you now glowing in the dark?
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