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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/18 in all areas

  1. This is where Rodico is your friend. Put a small piece just behind where you want to drop the spring in. You can then stick the spring to the Rodico, and manoeuvre it straight, and get the right angle, before sliding it down in to place. I find sharpened pegwood sticks help. Some will tell you to put it in with tweezers - but it's not easy. Replacing these springs is one of the things I struggled most with (apart from wrestling hairsprings of course !) Also when opening the springs, If it looks a bit loose, I will use a bit of Rodico to to make sure it's not going to pop out of it's slot.
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  2. Thanks Chopin. I have many of these movements, so no need in sending any spares. I’m just surprised that they wear over time. It’s not that often that the time and date are set.
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  3. How lovely to see your cats in a loving home.
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  4. Hi Marcos and welcome. I have not done Marks course but had some academic training long ago. That together with practice and Frieds and de Carles books etc. I am just a Jobber fixer. There are a lot of skilled good helpful people on this forum so keep going. Good wishes Mike.
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  5. Can you imaging throwing them in the garbage, because they waen't pure bred ? The person who killed the other six should be horse whipped. Here I am trying to watch TV
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  6. Very ingenious! I think shiny ends for the oilers. Mine are polished, not rough.
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  7. Welcome to this friendly forum.
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  8. Ah crap, I mistaken you for a different member. Did you change your avatar ? Sorry! My problem was in a different area slightly. Do you see any damage or worn out parts ? I think the play might be the culprit as some of the parts on my movement also had a bit of play which should not have been there but as I changed the components it worked fine. I guess it's just the way these movements (which are on the cheap side) are made. Not as tough as mechanical ones. If you want to I can send you the movement that you gave me as I didn't use any of the circled parts. The part with the protruding stud (that goes inside the slot with 3 positions) had a bit of play on my movement as well and I thought that that's it but apparently it wasn't. If it helps...
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  9. I love the camera lens oil pots! Just don't tell me then lenses came from a Leica
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  10. I don’t see any hairspring stud screw in the photos, is it missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  11. There are many manufactures of these items. My advice is not to be to frugal when purchasing. I personally like the Dumont tweezers I have used others but I find the Dumont seem to stay in shape for longer periods. I have tried many magnifiers but found Bergeon "screw rimmed" suit my needs. I like that you can unscrew and clean the lens. For screw drivers the A*F are really good value I have these + Horotec which I shape using their sharpener which shapes the blades into a T shape.
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  12. Here's a picture of the latest version of the hardware (I'd already posted a picture of the amplifier earlier, but here it is with the new microphone stand). I've got the cable coming out of the top of the stand now, which frees up one more side to allow testing in one more position. I've also completed the first draft of the on-line manual for the software, which can be read here: http://www.watchoscope.com/manual Comments or notification of errors are much appreciated. The software itself needs some final cleaning up, so the download link in the manual does not yet work. Going forward, I think I'm going to make the microphone stands by modifying a readily available Chinese case holder. I've ordered a few to experiment with.
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