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Once you are sure the only steel part is the one you want to remove, mix as much alum as will dissolve in a small container (I use a tiny glass jar). I try to keep mine warm in a double boiler on very low (you want the solution warm, not hot), it allows more alum to dissolve in the water. After a couple of days, the broken screw will be gone. I usually only do this on weekends so I can keep an eye on it, and add water if necessary. Starting on Friday evening, the screw is usually gone by Sunday. If you don't heat it up, you may have to wait a bit longer as mentioned above. You will see the steel part turn black in a few hours, that's a sign that it's working. Be patient, an it will work.

Reminds me a lot of this recent acquisition, something about the case shape and dial really works for me.

Well, as mentioned above if you try to use it on a wheel with uneven spokes it won't pull straight and you may bend the arbor. No problem for even spokes.

Thanks, Dadistic! I found that same data sheet myself yesterday, so we're on the right track. I also found some suitable parts watches on eBay, but I won't be able to get back to it until next week. Cheers, Gryf

a "private label watch". Hamilton did this also. via some agreement, the factory would put the clients' name on the dial? vin

I just used Alum to remove a broken screw crown screw in this thread. I put 2 teaspoons of Alum to 5 tablespoons of water. I did have to heat the mixture. I sat it in a stainless steel dish on a heating pad. Within two days the screw was gone. With the heat I kept adding a tablespoon of water every 10-12 hours. Good luck and as others stated any ferrous material will be damaged so be mindful! Marvin repair and service https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/8652-banking-question-not-certain/

You need to set goals. Is your priority getting it running, or learning to repair it? if you want your watch back, I suggest you do a movement swap. That is not as easy as it looks for a beginner. Setting hands so that the date flips at midnight, setting stem length, keeping dial and hands from being damaged, swapping the date wheel over, not destroying the hairspring... plenty of potential for problems. A movement overhaul is major. More tools, lubricants and skill. Not discouraging you at all but know you WILL destroy stuff learning the craft. I did not tear down a movement until I had done several movement swaps. And I still lean that way. I know I’ll have a running watch and can then work at my pace to get the old movement working correctly. Sort of an insurance policy.

First make sure the part you want to remove is steel and not any other metal. Also make sure no other steel parts are around as the alum is indiscriminate. Next mix Alum with hot water and soak the part, after several hours try to scrape the broken screw out with a sharp pick, you will find it has turned to a rust like substance. Repeat again after a few hours. Depending on the amount of alum dissolved you may need to mix a fresh batch. Most guys say that heat helps, personally I am in the tropics and haven't had to reheat, but mine usually takes around 6-10 days to get out completely. Heat may help but I can wait. Anilv

Coffee.

Start with the #24 solid movements first ( those without a second hand). I know I have a walk thru somewhere and will have a look around for it. But here are the base steps taught to me by the old guard Timexicans of Network 54. break down the watch to just the movement and soak in ammonia for 15 minutes. tap the container very few minutes to loosen particulars. Rinse under water - air dry or use blower soak in lighter fluid for 15 minutes and tap every few minutes. air dry or use blower. dab pivots with oil. dab mainspring with oil oil the balance cups David S I recall adds a step of rinsing with alcohol after the light fluid. Of course you should first inspect the movement to look for any obvious damage such as pulled hairspring, bent pallet fork etc. These are repairable but will take some time to develop the technique. But, it is a good way to get to throw some tools around, shout out some rude words and such! Not that I would know anything about that

Subscribing to learn about it too!

Omega "Dirty Dozen ".......

7t42 timer today Recycled photo [emoji4]

Wearing a Fortis 'True-line' this Sunday. It's an automatic with an ETA 2452 inside. Bought it cheap a few years back as it was not running, a service and it's running fine. It had a generic crown which I swapped out for a used original I had around. It has shrouded lugs which is a nice design feature and with the date at 1 o'clock it's quite a unique watch. Foetus is a brand rich in historynd their recent models are quite ice but is sad that they had to declare bankruptcy last year.. Hope they make it through. Anilv

O-rings of all sizes https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/o-ring-rubber-gaskets But as mentioned already, old watches (and still most new ones) don't use O-ring, rather flat gaskets.

I don't need the watch to be running by the end of the week, I want it to be running eventually. If that takes me 2 months, that's ok, I'm a patient man. Maybe I'll end up buying a new movement and swapping it but I'd rather try to see what's wrong with this one. Scrap movements for training: agreed...I consider the non-working Miyota to be my first training movement :-D So, my plan, so far: wait for ma last tools (hands remover, ...) to arrive (a week); remove the rotor; remove the main bridge; take a picture and post it here.