Leaderboard

FWIW, a Waltham 2250 is also very close, with the correct bridle, just slightly shorter at 11.25", or 317mm, and slightly weaker at 0.11mm in thickness....It may be easier to find Waltham 7.5L 2250 11.25 1.15 0.11

Unfortunately, as their documentations says: "If bridle type is not specified then it is a normal bridle" And what I need is a DB bridle. Anyway, thanks for the effort!

There's a specialist antique watch/clock repairer near to my home. If I buy a replacement staff, then take it in with the balance wheel, perhaps he'll be able to put the new one in for a reasonable price. It would save me from having to delve too far into a new hobby at this early stage.

Thanks for the welcome. Yes, I agree it’s not an ideal fix for a beginner, but I intend to do a few simpler jobs before eventually servicing the Hamilton. Here is the set, and you can see the watch there as well.

Definitely isn't to glue anything to the balance wheel. As described in french on the datasheet is to glue the end stud (piton) to the hairsping (spiral), that is, Etachron hairsprings. It's funny that in Switzerland, a true multilingual country, sometime they couldn't get the correct english translation.

Some kind of pivot straightener ?

That would do it

I have a scan of an old essay on this topic from 1864 entitled “The best method of setting in beat the cylider escapement of a geneva watch”. You may find it with a google search and when you get to page 11 you will find this...

The particular microphone that I use with that machine is a full automatic microphone and then it does all the wonderful calculations for multiposition timing. So this particular movement is in a case with no back and no cell strap. I was running it with a external power supply which did not like it when the microphone rotated as leads came off. So if I can find a cell strap I'll run multiposition timing and move the regulator. Then the service manual's interesting in that there's nothing on the timing machine the only reference to amplitude is by physically looking. Then a minor confusion perhaps there is two separate manuals one for the 9150 and one for the 9154 the difference is the frequency of the watches running at. 21,600 versus 28,800. So the particular 9154 manual I'm looking at is basically just a Upgrade for the 9150 manual. So when it comes the amplitude it basically says due to the high frequency and the peculiar shape of the balance it's difficult to the check the amplitude. Then it states that the dial up position should be on the higher limit of 270 in the lower limit of 200 pendent down position. Then in the 9150 manual they visually tell you how to do the amplitude I've attached an image. Then beat we get obsessed with this in mechanical watches and clocks because they impulse in two directions. So I decided to expand our discussion to include early electric timepieces. So for this example because both manuals had timing machine printouts I'm including the Hamilton 500 and the Elgin 725. Both of these are electromechanical they both only impulse in one direction. Both manuals are obsessed with getting the contacts in the right position. In both manuals the sections I've attached are only concerned with the line going in the right direction. Basically the watch is supposed to keep time whether the line wobbles around as considerable spacing it's irrelevant. So I thought we would expand our knowledge because this doesn't exactly apply to the transistor switched watch because they impulsive both directions. But it is conceivable that the balance wheel alignment is not symmetrical depending uponOther things and the manual doesn't cover any of those things. I think it assumes in the case the 9150 series that you're not going to be rotating the collet and playing with the beat.

What you need is this lot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did I understand correctly that you bought the watch brand new ? Usually new watches will have good accuracy but not necessarily the best. They can sit in storage for a long period of time which might affect accuracy a little bit or they just come that way from the factory. Mechanical watches can be regulated, fortunately for you, and this is what I would suggest that you do. I don't think that you should do that on your own but you have to take it to a watchmaker that has a timegrapher so that they can test and verify the time keeping in real time. The person asking you for a lot of money basically wanted to take advantage of you. Fully servicing a watch should indeed fix the problems but I would say it's not necessarily required in your case. If you do decide to give it a go please be careful and do your research beforehand. The small tab that adjusts the time has to be moved by a tenth of a millimeter or even less if possible at a time. Here's an example below.

Here it is folks. I'm guessing mid-19th century French based on the pin set and cylinder escapement. Thought I would share with you. Almost looks like a bar movement that made it's way to a finisher. Enjoy, C Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Sorry I haven't a clue.

My Seiko SNK805K2. Just finished service. Still need to polish out some light scratches on the crystal. Favourite travel watch and slightly modded, with sunburst blue dial and hands. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

@anilv You can easily make your own caseback opener. I've had great success a few years back. Sandwich wrap over the back, JBWeld metal repair putty pushed and moulded to cover just the caseback and a nut buried into it for using a spanner on to undo caseback once the JBWeld has set for 24hours.