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  1. Newbie

    Hi Marc, welcome.
  2. Fitting new balance staff

    The watch is a Waltham 18s 1883 from about 1900. I ordered a H588 as a replacement staff.
  3. Fitting new balance staff

    Yes, the dimensions matched the old staff. However there was a difference with the roller seat. The old staff didn't have a roller seat at all and the roller was just positioned at the correct point along the staff. The new staff has a good sized roller seat which extends to the same point that the roller was attached on the old one. Apart from that it all measured up.
  4. Fitting new balance staff

    I used this balance staff remover with a staking set. What sort of distortion of the hole did you get? Afterwards the hole itself looked fine. There was a depression on the hole edge on the side where it was riveted, however the depression looked very regular and I assume that is just the original shape of the balance arm/hole. Interestingly the K&D remover didn't extend enough to hold in the M.K.S. staking set. So I used a couple of rubber washers (in the image) to allow the tool to be firmly fixed in place. I did get a slight distortion of the balance arms which caused the wheel edges to no longer be parallel, but I reversed it using a large stump and flat punch just using the pressure from my fingers.
  5. Fitting new balance staff

    I applied a bit more force and it appears to be firmly fixed. I can also see some deformation of the shoulder now so I think it's properly on. I followed it with the flat punch and it's all looking good. Thanks.
  6. Hi, I've successfully removed a broken balance staff using a K&D balance staff remover. I'm now in the process of fitting the new balance staff and following one of Mark's videos. Using the correct rounded punch I have the balance staff fitted so that it doesn't fall out, however the staff does wobble slightly in the hole of the balance wheel. I've been applying gradually more force with the hammer, but don't wish to over do it, as advised in Mark's video. So, should there be any wobble at all or should the staff be firmly fitted to the wheel? I guess it should be a firm fit, but I'm cautious about applying too much force. Peter
  7. New Member

    Hi John, welcome.
  8. What is wrong with this.

    You can learn a lot from these quizzes. I was going to say that the key was missing. Not a major problem though.
  9. If the field appears to be too strong, why not simply start it with the movement farther away? Say a few inches or something like that.
  10. My collection

    That's a really nice set of watches. I'd love to build a collection like that. For oils, I've followed this advice here. I've started with 9020, 8200, D5. But I got 941 instead of 9415 because it was more within my budget.
  11. Hi Joe, welcome. I'm also just starting out in watch repair as a side interest. Lots of useful things to learn here, you've come to the right place. Peter
  12. Hello, I'm new

    Hi Dan, I have just started collecting pocket watches as a hobby, but I highly recommend Mark's courses, you'll be up and running in no time. Peter
  13. Oreba watch. 1930-1950? 17J.

    Just finished my first restoration/service.
  14. Is this mainspring ok?

    Just an update. I received the new mainspring from Cousins today. Checked it against the barrel and as expected it was a fraction too big to just drop in. So I carefully unwound it by hand and used a winder to get it into the barrel. This is where it got a little interesting as I had problems the first time I used this winder because I used the wrong size so I selected what I thought should be correct size for this one. However, when winding I discovered that with about an inch of spring to go it suddenly jammed and I realized that the winder barrel was full and stopped the spring being completely housed. Fortunately I worked around the problem by continuing to insert the winder into the watch barrel as normal and then manually feeding in the inch of remaining spring into the gap around the edge of the barrel. I tried pressing the winder button but it was too stiff since the spring was jammed in, but fortunately with a little tap of a hammer the spring popped into place. So far so good. Then I noticed that the spring's inside coil was just a little too big for the arbor which meant it just freely rotated without catching. So I carefully used pliers to shrink the size of the inner coil. The arbor then slotted firmly into place and after returning the barrel lid, it was winding successfully. After that, I re-assembled and oiled the watch by closely following Mark's course videos. The movement is now happily ticking away with an amplitude of 274 and a nice steady beat. I think the balance might need realignment as there's a large gap between the dots on the timegrapher, but so far I'm pretty chuffed with it all. Thanks for the help. Peter
  15. Is this mainspring ok?

    I measured the internal distance of the barrel. Is that correct? If I measure the external diameter (excluding the teeth) then it's 16.9mm.