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Always been fascinated by these but could never justify the cost. One day maybe.

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Oooops I can see this topic has restarted, ok as for my quandary with the BHI distance course, I will hopefully for a few pounds next week get the whole syllabus to study and see if it's for me, I attended a BHI function this weekend and not to be disrespectful, but myself and two qualified smiths that I know lowered the average age of that hall by about 45+ years, and none of us are spring chickens, and there's a fact that the industry needs to take a look at, its a dying trade, quite literally! It a shame, and there in lies a heads a up to the BHI, to maybe give out abit more info, so a ups potential smiths can get an idea aupsns to what's expected of them.

Correction. I found data on the actual cal 6620 on the Cousins website. The spring is 270.03

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Looks like a hard Arkansas to me. Hard Arkansas stone is a form of Novaculite which is a microcrystaline quartz. It is an excellent natural whet stone and is used for the final touching up on your gravers (assuming HSS, not sure how it would perform on tungsten).

Why would you want the additives, and multi viscosity? A lot of the additives may be harmful to yellow metals, and most like detergents (keep particles in suspension) and anti foaming do no good and possibly harm. These oils are designed for IC engines and the problems with burning and carbon etc. I don't know of any advantage for synthetic motor oil at room temps....mostly its advantages are a high temperatures. For applications not subject to burning fossil fuels, hydraulic oil may be a better choice, There's less additives (although still has the zinc compounds that may not be good for yellow metals) As for multi viscosity, you know the second viscosity is at 100C? For example if you bought a 10w-30 or 10W (about ISO 32 iirc) they would basically have the same viscosity at room temps. Multi-grade are intended to perform over season changes and also from cold start to operating temps, I'm not sure what reason there'd be to use multigrade if the temperature is constant. Do you think there is something wrong with what is sold as clock oils? I don't have much clock oil expertise, but knowledge of oil in other applications where yellow metals are involved suggests its not a good idea

He did take it back but was so dismayed by the bull$hit that he had no confidence in them to do a good job the second time. Neither did he want to enter into a prolonged argument with the the "experts" that would grind him down. All he wants is a good reliable watch that doesn't need fettled every five years or so at an exorbitant price, so quartz it is. He will also manage a couple of nice cruises from the sale of the Rolex! I had to agree with him.

A unimat sl or unimat 3 I would think is best for you. Both have accessories for milling, also have screw cutting accessories. Both fit into your price range, check out ebay, some good second hand ones there. Check out this forum about lathes and the pit falls of buying them. You can cut screw threads using taps and dies instead of lashing out for screw cutting accessories.

Your correct Marc. I too refer to them as roll pins although they are also known as spring dowels.

I've always referred to those as roll pins, rightly or wrongly, and CB is right, just drive it out with the right size punch, either way as they aren't tapered.

I don't know its correct name but I think you will find it has to be tapped through. It's like a spring rivet but there are guys here who have engineering back grounds who will give advice I am sure.

Old Hippy, I think back in the early 1970s there were numerous independent watch repair shops and several watch repair schools. The Chicago School of Watchmaking, Bulova School of Watchmaking plus many watch repair programs offered in various community collages. The mechanical watch industry was almost destroyed after the Japanese figured out a way to miniaturize the piezoelectric quartz crystal by machining it into the shape of a tuning fork. This paved the way for a more accurate, more dependable watch at a much lower cost per watch. This also led to the ultimate demize of the independent watch shop. The mechanical watch industry was brought back to life by the Swiss watch companies. Unfortunately, for the small independent repair shops, they also took over the service and repair aspects of the industry. This was also sad for the customers who purchased their watches because these companies turned watch service into a rip-off operation. My dentist was quoted around $2000.00 and an 8 month turnaround from Patek Phillipe to clean and lubricate his watch. A small independent repair shop might have charged $150.00 with a 3 day turnaround. david

Well if it’s an Aqualand you will do well to talk with Louis who is a very helpful man. He is on here as@ricardopalamino and there is not much he doesn’t know about Aqualand watches. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes u r right, after some observation on the day jumper, trial an error on adjusting its position and tension, applied small amount of oil back on day disc gears. Finally it can jump completely to next day after the date changed. Thank all of u for the suggestion and time.