Leaderboard

The wheel on top of the bridge is the indirect centre seconds wheel and it is a push fit onto the extended third wheel arbor which projects through the bridge. It can (and indeed should) be removed to facilitate cleaning and oiling of the pivot but you must be careful. Being a push fit it just pulls off, however, the extended arbor is very delicate and any action that causes the wheel to cant or tip unevenly to one side or the other can very easily snap it. You can get a puller specifically for the job which looks like a modified "Presto" type hands puller, another fairly safe approach is to use two single edged razor blades pushing in evenly on opposite sides to lift the wheel. Once there is sufficient clearance you can graduate to Stanley knife blades to complete the job. Reassembly is best achieved using a staking tool, but if you don't have access to one then just careful even pressure.

Hallo - my name is Wilhelm Fliegenhaus and I have £50,000,000 which I need to transfer from my Nigerian bank account to the USA. If you can help me with this, I can offer you a 10% commission. All I need to do this is your bank account details...

I have the presto tool now, but I remove it with 2 razor blades once. Worked a treat. Do is slowly and gently and it should be fine.

Thanks Geo for the first reply back. Hope I can add to the conversation and learn something from all of you. Rich (Timezone)

For some strange reason, I've been developing an interest in vintage lighters and pocket watches recently, especially those that are somehow related to Freemasons. Came across this one on the 'bay the other day and I just couldn't resist. This is a sellers picture. It comes from Europe, so only God knows how long it will take before it gets here. There is something about the dial with all the symbols that makes it very special. I am really looking forward to getting this piece added to my collection. If it is as good as the seller stated, I will be wearing this one regularly to our meetings.

Had the same problem on a Seiko today,going like a train until you placed it face up, then it stopped, Checked the balance pinions they were OK, pallet pinions all OK, pulled the train bridge off again and gave all the pinions a microscopic examination, culprit was the third wheel lower pinion, not broken just damaged, even under the microscope it was hard to see, used another third wheel from the spares bin and problem solved. So check all the pinions carefully, I had already checked these and thought they were OK! Max

The top wheel should really have been pulled off before removing the bridge. There is a special Presto No3 puller for doing this that has two claws on one side, and one on the other. Do not try to remove the wheel from the bridge without the bridge being on the movement!

This type of clock is what I started on learning clock making.

Glad this was all resolved amicably. I am absolutely certain that Clockboy and Geo meant no disrespect. Perhaps the lighting and focus of the pictures seemed to blur out some important defining evidence. However, posting a picture of the movement has satisfied every one's curiosity and the mystery is now solved. Bravo. :)

i love that delvina. that is a great bunch of color on that dial. oh, and i covet the speedmaster.

No one said you have to do anything but if you post a picture of a watch and one of the many professionals on the site here spot something incongruous then of course, out of courtesy, they are going to give you a heads-up as to what they think. Look at it this way...if you you went to the doctor with a lump on your skin and he tells you it's possibly something nasty then you don't ignore him and just go on believing it's a rogue pimple...you investigate. You put the picture up and trained eyes have spotted some things which don't seem right. They aren't ridiculing you...they're trying to help you.

There have been a few questions on here recently about where to find service sheets and parts interchangeability. It took me a long time to work out where this was when I first started out. I now have a few favourite pages where I find this information. Is there a good way to submit this so the mods can add it to the resources page... and encourage others to do the same? It isn't always stored by movement type, e.g. http://watchrepairinfo.com/techman.htm Maybe some responses to this thread? S

Lots of interesting service info here - http://tech.gleaveandco.com/home

Now we can fit the autowind mechanism. Refit the reduction wheel and screw which is left hand thread. Fit the pawl lever onto the pin on its driving wheel, the lub should hold it in place while you flip it over and put into position. Make sure that both ends of the lever are not lying on top of the reduction wheel when you fully tighten the screws, just gently ease them over the edge first, so that they are engaging with the tiny ratchet teeth. Fit the rotor and check that the autowind is working ok, taking care not to slip and catch the balance. It would have been nice to go on and fit the dial and hands and then re-case the movement, but I have just noticed that the watch and the balance in particular appear to be magnetised. So I will leave it for now until my de-magnetiser arrives. Hopefully I have covered the most important points and the rest is just cosmetic really. I hope it has been helpful, I have quite enjoyed doing it. I've tried to explain things as clearly as I can. If I have been unclear at any point I would be glad to help if I can.

Great collection, the Eternia is the one for me an absolute beauty.

This collection is awesome, there is not one watch I don't covet. The Hanhart mono-pusher is just the business!