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Hi, I've been trading on Ebay for a number of years both as a private seller but mostly as a buyer. A few times I've changed my mind about buying and it has been dealt with amicably. Speaking as a seller this is the correct course of action take :- On the selling page for your item there is a dropdown which allows you to open a case for non payment. You then have time to contact the buyer, ask again for payment, and you have to wait a few days for him reply. If you're still not happy then you can escalate the case and Ebay will cancel the sale and not charge you any fees. All that happens to the non buyer is that he will receive a strike ( which means nothing ) and if it happens too many times he will be in trouble. This is good because if he's making a habit of it he shouldn't be on Ebay. You mention " report him " as if he going to be in big trouble. Don't worry this happens every day probably thousands of times and it's no big deal. Just open a case, get your fees refunded and you've lost nothing. Certainly don't give anything away to someone who can't be bothered to pay you £12 My opinion, Mike

Hello to all . I'm new to the forum and have enjoyed all the posts. They have helped me plenty in my watch repair and collecting times. I have approx 150 watches in my never-to-be-sold collection and have embraced watch repair as my passion and to make my collection larger. I hope to be able to help others as I hope others will be able to help me on this forum in our pursuit of watch nirvana. Thank you for allowing my introduction

Hello All, I have such a gigantic collection, I tend to wear each watch two to three times a year. (I know, I'm a watchaholic and need help, lol) Anyway, today is Tag day and I've had this Aquaracer for about a year now. She keeps better time than my Rolex and feels nice and "chunky" with plenty of heft. The construction is solid and this watch has been to h**l and back but yet she still keeps great time and looks good too;) Thanks for watching! :) Love that lume:) I apologize in advance for the horrible pics....I will get used to this phone soon enough, haha.

Although I have only been here for a day, welcome to the forum!

Hello from me and we are always ready to give a helping hand what ever you might ask.

Welcome Budsy enjoy

Welcome to the forum Budsy, I concur with what Bob has said.

Welcome to the forum Budsy. As a member here said: "the only stupid question is the one that was never asked" So, please, ask away. Be warned, my rate is as follows: US$5 of good answers, US$4 for not-very-good answers and the bad ones are free! :) [just in case, this is a joke except the welcoming part which I really mean] As for the answer to your question, there are many videos by Mark our host, youtube ones by other people (most not as good) and on-line classes -- such as the timezone and the free Seiko 7S26 ones among others -- but the best thing is to get the book "Practical Watch Repair" by De Carle available for free in pdf...there are other excellent books on the subject but not free or in pdf.. OK, now you can deposit your US$5 in my bank account, I'll give you a US$1 credit if another member has a better answer!! :) Cheers, Bob

As a piano technician I learned an expensive tool is a lot less expensive than buying a cheap one first. LOL Have fun. Dave

Welcome to the forum Jeff. Sometimes with my timographer (1900) I have to turn the sensitivity to it,s minimum because there is too much noise such as pin lever movements. The other issue is if the watch is way out of beat it can not register a reading but it sounds like this is not the case. I presume it performs OK with other watches.

Welcome to the forum. I'm retired and have been for a long time. The movement is a pin pallet and not jeweled I'm wondering if that might have anything to do with what is coming up on your timing machine,it might be picking up the interference of all the action of the movement.

Hi Jeff, I have had the same problem with several watches and the Timegrapher, one I couldn't get a sensible reading so I pulled it down and serviced it, checked every thing out - put it on the Timegrapher the same result, + 700 sec BE 8.1, didn't matter where I moved the stud it didn't change the BE and the further I retarded the rate the faster it went. Gave up on the Timegrapher and set it by guesswork as I used to do before I got the timing machine, continued the reassembly, when completed I timed it with a chronograph and it looked OK , now on test over extended time. As I said I have had a couple that that happened with, I think there must just be something that confuses the Timegrapher with some, Max

I've fixed pianos by dismantling them and reassembling again. No idea what I did. Probably something was loose or lodged somewhere and it just fell out without my noticing it. I once found a thumb tack in the only place it could possibly be to totally jam the action and it got there by accident. I couldn't sleep last night so I dismantled a watch. I was too tired to reassemble it again... What I think is really cool is that I actually know where all those little gizmos go now. It's fascinating and there's a lot to learn.

Well thanks very much, it is very kind of you to say that. I am glad to hear that I'm not the only one. I don't think that in my heart I could open a case and report someone for not sending me what would be probably 10 pounds after the fees etc were taken off. I think I would rather just send them the watch and let them ponder over what just happened, and hopefully they might then do something equal. It's all packaged and ready to post anyway. On the other hand, the way it's going if I keep relisting the watch it's value might keep going up and up :lol:

I suggest you read this thread Dave. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1385-best-way-to-pick-up-jewels/?hl=%2Bjewel+%2Bpicker+%2Bupper#entry13144 I use Moebius 9010 for balance jewels.

Bob, I think I posted in the wrong section as well:( Sorry about that....just think, I'm a mod somewhere else:/

Thanks very much Bob! Nice to hear that there are gurus here that are willing to help!!! (means the world to me) Just to add: I'm wondering if it could be endshake or possibly something is "rubbing" in there. Also, with 1 Jewel, the tick itself is quite audible...could this throw off a timegrapher? (escape wheel looks good, not worn) Currently, I am doing the "manual test" for 6 days in 6 positions....so far, it's doing very well keeping time and ticking along;)

Only one watch out of 150, working?! Are you serious!...It worries me the "never stopped" part: Is it for collecting or for taking apart each one of your watches? That's definitely a learning experience and should be a new record. I believe Guinness will give you a million dollars...good for more watches to take apart! :) Please, correct me if I misunderstood! Cheers, Bob

Movements of the fifties and sixties are in the 10, 11 12 lines ranges. For example a typical Bulova caliber of the 50s is the 10BPAC which is a 10.5 line;

Really listen to what these guys are telling you. They know their business. I've dabbled with watches for 2 or 3 years and don't even want to go into the horror stories of my the early days. I must of spent well over a £1000 on the basic tools and am still collecting and constantly learning but good luck! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I thought you're also from the Philippines since you are also a member of the Philippine watch club. I'm an engineer too so I know where your passion for watches and watchmaking is coming from.

I'm going to give the Dr.Tillwich Etsyntha type 1-3 oil, the type 3-5 oil and the B52 grease a go. Normally the Germans produce high quality stuff and what I received looks very professional. Each bottle in a small cardboard box, sealed in plastic and individual datasheet included. Total cost for 3.5 ml type 1-3 oil, 20 ml type 3-5 oil, 7 gram B52 grease plus combined registered shipment from Germany to Denmark: €49.75 ≈ $ 54. The vendor www.watchparts24.com and the direct link to the oils: http://watchparts24.de/navi.php?jtl_token=64fd5f4d65bb25cdb9b2a31833317ab3&suchausdruck=Etsyntha They also sell Moebius oils. Time will tell if my choice was any good........... Best regards: Roland. P.S.; so far no reply from any of the watch oil- / grease-producers I wrote an email to......