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Not sure if you professional's would class this as a military watch. I repaired this one. Beha watch with a Durowe movement. The gentleman concerned had swapped a can of coffee for two of these in the 1950's in Germany. He kept one and his friend had the other. Stopped working over 20 years ago. Told could not be fixed. The hairspring was twisted around the innards of the watch. Disassembled, cleaned, oiled and a replacement balance complete fitted. The minute hand was broken so I had to replace it with a new one. Returned two month ago. I received a wonderful letter from the gentleman, 80+.

I don't own these, but I did service both of them recently for a couple of veterans I met through a local (non-watch related) group that we all belong to. First is a Benrus GG-W-113 US contract pilots watch from July 1971. It was issued to it's owner when he deployed to Vietnam, and then he later had it with him when he went to Libya. The second is a 1961 Bulova Type A17A military issue navigation watch. It's original owner was in the US Air Force, and it was re-issued to him in 1966. The original strap had long since deteriorated, and I was lucky enough to find an original NOS strap from the correct US military contract and I surprised him with his rebuilt watch on a NOS strap that was identical to what was on it when he first got the watch. I wish I owned these, but there was no way I would ever even ask to buy these from their owners. They were the ones who put the scratches and dings in those watches, and clearly cherished the watches enough to hold on to them for several decades after they stopped running. It was a pleasure to rebuild these watches. I'd love to find some of my own, but I have larger wrists and these watches are quite small. They just don't look very proportional on my wrist.

Don’t believe everything you see when it comes to videos on Youtube. As you might know I’m more interested in clocks. There is a clock maker on Youtube who is featured on T V a customer brought in there Long case clock movement and case, the movement was not complete many parts missing on the strike side. When the customer came to see the clock after it had been repaired she was so pleased as he had replaced all the missing parts on the strike side, he told her he had replacement parts lying around in his work shop, which is a complete lie, antique Long case clock parts and not compatible/interchangeable they have to be made. I left a comment about his video I’m still waiting for an answer. This was over a year ago. Going back to watches they will only show high grade watch movements repairs because people are familiar with certain names so people are more likely to click on there video which adds more revenue for them, they won't bother with some pin pallet unbranded movement, the videos are eddied so all the mistakes you never see. I'v seen some where the movement is completely rusted a complete right off, with in a few minutes you see the movement all cleaned no sign of rust, restored normally by the Chinese we all know it just never adds up.

Based on this website I found, http://mirius.co.uk/CalibreIndex.htm?All,MST It looks like an MST 48 cylinder movement Good luck finding parts, however this and the MST 59 may (may) have interchangeable train wheels, so you may (may) have more chances. Hope you can fix it!

when replacing jewels it's nice to have a reference book like the link below. Then even look at the reference book and see what standard jewels are available so I've attached an image of a chart. You've indicated it's a plate jewel 14 x 100 or I guess technically to be 0.14 x 1.00 which I circled it's a standard plate jewel of a standard size. okay so cousins have lots of jewels but of course as you may have found out we have a problem it's no longer available it's been discontinued. As watch repair moves more for well basically no parts being available parts will slowly disappear so your size has been discontinued but if you're willing to open the hole up a little bit you can have a 14 x 1 50. then of course the other thing to do is if you look in the book there's a way of closing a a hole although I don't know if you could drop it from 1 to 90 because that's available also so if you're buying from cousins you would have to open up your hole to accommodate the bigger jewel or continue searching online and may be fine the link below. then I snipped out an image on the page below I believe that's what you're looking for plus you'll notice they have other sizes to and there on sale. https://www.ofrei.com/page942.html Seitz book.pdf

It's to grab the rim to twist it when truing bimetallic balances. They come in different sizes, usually with two cutouts per, yours looks like someone filed open one of them quite a bit. I'm sure they're useful but I've trued tons of bimetallic balances and never used this tool.

Ross bloody brilliant matey you should be well proud of that one especially after the suggestion that it could not be fixed. The smile on the old boy's face must have been priceless and now he can pass that down to his family. I love stories like this, you've just brought a tear to my eyes. My reputation as a tough guy is now diminished, good job I'm on my own

Very interested in seeing what channels are put forward, my main channels to learn from are the same as yours @VWatchie I’ll add a couple; “OBR Horology” pretty new channel not very frequent uploads but based around a professional watchmaker workshop “Jon the Watch” our very own @Jon good tutorials but would love to see more as Jon teaches watchmaking “The Watchmakers Workshop” a young independent American master watchmaker making his own watches. Very recent channel but I found it interesting, high production standards Tom

The Nekkid watchmaker . Jo is humorous, good with case restoration but tbh has become mostly entertainment. I also follow a guy called Christopher Soto, spoke to him a few times on a watchrepair facebook group. Really nice helpful bloke, very skilled, recently started a channel CS watch repairs or CSWR. Also Richard Perrett

Lots of folk like this on youtube OH. Its all about pulling in viewers i guess by looking amazing at what you do. A lot of it is laughable, just wish they could be more genuine thats why i like Mike from Retro watches he admits to all of hiis mistakes. I quite like Kalle of chronoglide, i remember our Nicklesilver making a remark regarding his skill . I understood why ,he can be heavyhanded, made me laugh a few weeks ago watching his live video undoing a screw by turning the movement holder but didnt realise he was winding the screw back in then reverted to using the screwdriver as though nothing had happened. Seemed a little embarrassed and probably hoped nobody had noticed . A quick comment calling himself a numpty would have sufficed.

This is an interesting little watch. The import code has been scratched out. Ipekdijian Bros Ltd somewhat crudely engraved. They are a diamond merchant or jeweler incorporated in NY in 1941. I haven't found a manufacturer caliber number yet. Runs very well. The back was on extremely tight. Dial has some scratches. Needs a new crystal. It was running at the time I snapped the photo, just caught it at the right time!

That's the mark for Kienzle

Thank you all, here is a better photo of the wings @KarlvonKoln By the way - I have previously taught myself how to service old pocket watches (1920's era top winders) I'd like to service this clock myself, although I haven't looked into clock servicing yet. Could anyone point me in the direction of perhaps a relevant guide or video that might help me? Also perhaps someone might be so kind as to point out some of the basic fundamentals I might need to have, like lubricants and/or tools needed for the job. Thanks again.

i was about to say you are lucky because they are often missing, but you will probably never use it for its intended purpose.

There is much to consider when assembling a watch from assorted, generic, or aftermarket parts. - People who do watch "modding" can tell you where to get unlabeled dials. If the dial is the first consideration, then you will next need to consider where the dial feet are, because only certain watch movements will use those dial feet locations. - You would then need to locate a case, matching your wife's desires in design, wherein the dial and movement will fit precisely. There should be no slop around the dial; it should nestle into position just right. You may still need a plastic movement holder ring to support and center the movement in the case. This case should be of a size where the hole for the stem should line up with the stem hole in the movement. If the movement is too thick for the case, or too thin, the stem will not line up. Setting time (and winding, if mechanical) will be difficult and stiff and the stem will later break. Also, if the movement is too thick for the case, the case back will not go on. Much to think about. No doubt others will help out here soon.

Someone told me the technical name is "balance wrench", but as the others just mentioned, that is what they are for. I have two, maybe three, of them. And I find myself often using other means. Personally, I find them a tad awkward to use. The balance screws are always in the way and I have trouble gauging how much pressure I'm using.

Repivot22 T&T&T Dean DK The best mix of entertainment and information I've found so far is Vintage Watch Services. I've not got much patience for YouTubers who can't be bothered to edit their videos down to a reasonable length, or repeatedly make the same mistakes, no matter how entertaining the patter.

Eyup matey. So only option left would be to turn the hairspring collet. This must be the old one jewel version. Rgds

Hi Nucejoe there is no impulse jewel or roller table. The finger is different component attached to the staff tthat acts on the pin pallet .

I absolutely agree, that guy is very entertaining and very impressive when it comes to making old watches look better than new. What I can't stand is how extremely sloppy he can be with his oiling. So definitely disqualified for the educational category. The others you mention I haven't seen so I'll definitely check those out. Thanks! So am I! Thanks for your contributions! I'll have a look!

Providing we can read all the content grammar is not an issue.

What a brilliant website. So interesting. Thank you

Know what you mean. Even in my books, I have completed spell check and amended what I think is correct grammar. However, I write the way I speak. Comments from a few readers says the content is excellent, but the grammar is poor. thor447 Did not even notice spelling mistakes. The content is so good. oldhippy. You are so right. I've never found a Rolex in a river bank. All my repairs are from parts lying around, but they are replacement parts from my purchases. Still great fun this hobby.

I have a link below to help you understand the 5600 series. notice at the very beginning of that discussion they call these high-end automatics. In other words even though these were mass-produced good for parts they were still produced with care. Then as you go up higher and higher hallway to the grand Seiko considerably more care was taken into making the watch. My understanding is basically the grand Seiko it have everything finished nicer they took more time on the balance wheel escapement etc. So basically anything in this series is going to be a good watch. https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=seiko_5600 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Seiko_5619A

I made an offer that I didn't expect the seller to accept, and all of a sudden I was at the checkout screen. I blame the beer. I could, but for the $20 I offered, I'm going to see what's inside. I figure at worst I can use the case to practice buffing and restoring.

That’s understandable. I work on what I like, budget, allowing of course! A lot of those older Seikos and other watches from the 70’s really appeal to me, so that’s what I work on the most. I worked on a few higher grade watches people I know, and have a couple older watches that are step up in quality that have still yet to be worked on (2 Zodiacs, an old Onega, etc.) For me personally, it’s not so much about the money as it is the enjoyment of learning this new skill and then wearing something on your wrist that you brought back to life.

Hi Jonno, whether you search online or ask on here, you need to know what you're looking for, hence the measurements. Cousins have a huge selection of hands, so you'd be sure to find something suitable there, but maybe delivery to Australia is ridiculously expensive for just one item.

Accidentally?

I accidentally bought a probably not working Timex SSQ from the 70s. I'm such a sucker for the aesthetic of the era.

Looking at the picture it looks like the adjustment is here.

Hope everyone is doing well. I wanted to share the first conventional automatic I have worked on. Previous to this I had serviced a cyma bumper auto movement. I picked this up at the local flea market for a bargain of $10. It has an AS 1361N inside, and needed a new setting lever spring which I found on eBay. The auto weight reads Shriro watch inc. Marshall from wristwatch revival had done a watch with the same movement inside and it looked like it had been dunked in oil - funnily enough, mine looked the exact same, with pools of oil inside. One missing screw on the automatic bridge but I found this further inside the movement. This is also the first movement where I’ve had to use my smallest screwdriver. The 3.5x lens on my visor just doesn’t my cut it for me in those situations. Reused the crystal after sanding it - couple small marks I could not get rid of (one inside and one out). Bezel had a dent that I put back right at 6:00 to make it more of a ‘feature’. I’m pleased with the end result, the overall cost and this was a confidence builder to move on to more automatics. Have a good day all.

Fantastic job, you should be really proud.

Lol i have enough unused dust gathered tools already. I think the watch repairers code here applies, " I wont tell your wife if you dont tell mine " . What happens in the watchroom stays in the watchroom, we all need to stick together on this.

What you offering Waggy to keep my trap shut ( it wont be easy so make it worth my while )

I have the AS 1130 "Wehrmachtswerk" UNO running like a champ (+10s/d 0.1ms beat error and around 260 degrees of swing). When it arrived it was gummed up solid, so much so that I feared the balance was damaged. I'm going to wear it for the next day or so, to let it settle down. It does need a crown, and a crystal, but otherwise it appears to be in good shape. I can't claim credit for the hatchet marks around the balance bridge screw, they were there when it arrived. Interestingly there were no service marks on the case back, so I have no idea when the scratches might have occurred. The AS 1130 is a well thought out and well constructed movement, and pretty simple to work on and the watch itself is a nice eye catching design, with its gold plated case and classic sub-dialled face. The dial is immaculate (any imperfections you see are on the crystal). The case does have a little wear on it, but nothing obvious when worn.

Posted this up a good while back, but seeing as it fits in well and with some good History . Here is my Nato redialled Record DD, inside a 022K. Also has a broken staff pivot but i have around 20 of these. The serial number on the dial is designated specifically to Record, other brand redials will have different serial numbers . Redialled i would guess as a matter of routine service when called into army stores and to decommission the radium lumed dials. Serial number beginning with the letter L as assigned to the Record company. As most will know the Dirty Dozen watch was nick named after the film. So called as the British military approached 12 Swiss watch companies ( there is currently a british company called Vertex making the Vertex DD with some kind of dubious family connection imo but marketing stories sell, just look at the Daniel Wellington name crock of shite )with the task of making their mill spec watches. Look for the WWW stamp on the back. Wrist Watch Waterproof. These 12 companies in alphabetical order as i remember them easier this way. Buren. Cyma. Eterna. Grana. IWC. JLC. Lemania. Longines. Omega. Record. Timor. Vertex. In actual fact as part of the story as i read it Enicar was also approached but dropped out for whatever reason. All are worth a few bob but the Grana is the one to really look out for. Out of the approximate 250,000 DDs that were made the Grana (KF or KFG ) had an estimated manufacture of 1000 to 5000 ( not sure if anyone actually knows ) Coincidentally i do have 100 balance staffs for the Grana DD half fixed jewel half shock jewel. Great i have 100 staffs that will likely never be wanted .

I think thats pretty good. Dont expect a lot from the Empire, the low jewel count usually indicates some worn pivots and pivot holes and they were often wrist worn to death. But you might be lucky. Here is my GSTP Frencha with a Buser 105 movement inside. The staff has a broken pivot and I managed to find a packet of 2 in a cheap job lot 4 weeks ago. I have 2 goes at getting it right, putting it off for the time being, strange things happen when i ticker with a watch that has a lot of history. This one has already twisted my melon once when i first opened it up last year. Annnnyway. Here is its Military serial number on the back, and broad arrow with an S stamped through that indicates it was decommissioned and sold possibly to its owner ( dont ask me how but i think i have his name ) Moving swiftly on, Buser became part of the well respect MSR group in 1961 that included Phenix , Revue and Vulcain that made good quality timepieces. And looking inside this is no exception and still in good condition.The crystal is battered and i took a bit of a risk on the dial but it is perfect.

It's a Tudor AND a Rolex- twice as valuable! The Cyma is nice- WWII or before?

Do not straighten that pinion, it's supposed to be bent!!!!!! That is the canon pinion set up on a lot of old pocket watches. The bend in the pinion is to create the slipping friction clutch function to allow the train to drive the hands, but also allow the hands to be set without sending torque back into the train. This has been discussed fairly recently but I can't find the thread, however have a look here for more detail.

I spent days scouring the interweb but all I could find was the caliber specific ones, so I had to eventually give up and shell out for the ridiculously priced Bergeon ones

I typed my previous message on my phone and should have proof-read it beforehand! It's bugging me now that it's been too long and I can no longer go back and edit it! The spelling mistakes are driving me crazy. Curse you tiny phone buttons!!!

normally when I think of Seiko crowns I think of a crown that looks different than what your assortment has. I think is Swiss crowns as having a gasket inside the crown that goes around the tube. Where crowns Seiko typically has it's a little tiny gasket that goes on the crown and goes inside the tube. To that may be an issue perhaps then of course there's the thread size issue. as I was just on this website finding a jewel for somebody on this group let's see what they have for Seiko crowns. No pictures of but we have a problem notice they're not just the standard 10 there also 11 and 13 that will be a problem. https://www.ofrei.com/shop-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi then let's look at the parts list at this link and now we know what the problem is. Go down the list and see if the stem and there's two of them one of them is a tap 9 which may be what you have. So yes it appears to be that Seiko stems like Swiss stems can come in different diameter sizes and they will not fit a crown designed for a size that you don't have. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_6119A

Hi Ross have a look at Esslingers site they have tutorials and stem size charts.. windingstems.com lists a lesion of stems by make. Like stems crowns vary as well, not easy is it.