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Don't bother one second with the ranking system. It means nothing (or very, very little) in relation to knowledge about watch repairing. You simply have to find out who you find it worthwhile to read and trust. The title simply reflects how many posts a member has written, or is a custom title (like in my case).

Hi Never E the eubauche logo is usually a set of initials in a sheild. The Ebauche made movements for everybody and anybody to fit into cases. as you will notice from the attached doc there are a lot on logos the likes of Peseux, landerton,and others have the sheild hence Ebauches. Under the balance ther is usually the caliber number of the watch if not there on the plate and or the front plate. These are a must when ordering parts thays why we request pictures along with a question so the members can diagnose a problem sush as a sticky hairspring etc.

Its a tension washer it has to be just right or the minute hand will not carry. Which in you case is happening.

The BHI is interesting Association. It's also an interesting place to visit which I did once. Yes is quite a journey from my house to get there but it was well worth the journey. The link below will take you to a sample issue for those not familiar with the magazine. If you look at the second link I think it actually answers your question. Somewhere in the list of things that says access to members forum with access to past issues digital copies. So basically get a physical magazine and then you can go online and access the past issues which is quite a deal as there's lots of dyestuff in the magazines is just expensive to get. https://bhi.co.uk/hj/ https://bhi.co.uk/about-us/individual-members/

Ok OK chill please. I've only just got him to talk to me .

The simplistic answer is your screwed? This is the age old never-ending problem in watch repair. For variety reasons parts information is not available never was. There is a assumption by people that every single part has a part number and they don't. Now then there's the other little problem which is for instance I once did a database program for material house who had a Seiko parts count. The particular database had 50,000 casing parts. The material house owner was unhappy because each year they were dropping old parts he actually needed multiple generations of the database to look up older parts. Now realistically think about it if you stocked 50,000 casing parts for the current generation Seiko watches how many of those would you never ever sell? Would it be in your best interest to stock all of them? From a watchmaking point of view yes we want them to stock every single casing part they ever made but they can't. Yes I worked briefly in a material house there's no way in hell of material house can stock every single part of every single watch ever made it's not practical even though it disappoints everyone in watch repair. Then next problem is Swatch group. Swatch group doesn't like watchmakers they tolerate them at best. They want to make watches they don't want to repair them it depends upon which brand as to how helpful they will be. Even if you had access to Swatch group databases and the brands some of them don't even have data for anything old. Which means there's no way to find whatever it is you're looking for. Then suppose you did have access did you order the part if you can look it up not necessarily access comes at different levels. It means conceivably somebody can find the part number for you but can't order it it's restricted you're not authorized to purchase then what if you get a part number what you going to do with it are you going to be happy or angry? The anger aspect comes along the lines of sometime in the past somebody had to vintage Omega watches they were looking for the crystal. Fortunately Omega for casing parts as a wonderful database. I never said the individual where I looked up my part numbers but I looked up the part numbers and I gave him the crystal members was he happy hell no we was angry why? Part numbers didn't seem to correspond to anything in the known universe? In other words some unique parts older parts whatever they might not have ever been reproduced it may have never been distributed they aren't out there at all. I don't know why he was complaining we currently have a watch at work that we have a crystal number and we Find where to get the crystal from either not unique to the people on this group so if you were to find some kind soul who had Swatch group axis they could take your number and discover that it refers to nine different watches?Then looking for anything that resembles a white dial we get two of them. If you look carefully it appears to be that they're both identical it's just the strap. But just to make my point I've attached the image of that. Then Figure out what exactly you're supposed to be looking for dial is listed as a case component versus the movement components. Then you would probably get something like that apparently it's a chrome dial not white and he gets reference numbers zero idea what you're going to do with those although? Sometimes newer numbers might show up on eBay or relatively new because some of the companies actually did supply parts to the world like Omega's a lot of the Omega parts are out there. As a guess you're going to have to find somebody who's camel boys to watch or? The owner would be find somebody who has Swatch group access at the movement level or whatever level is needed to order dial components and see if the order a dial for you. As a wild guess it should cost less than $100 but you do have to find the right person ask nicely and see if they'll actually do it. For your original question yes it's a problem for everybody. The newer stuff databases were never released into the public like the older stuff there's no parts references out there for anybody. Companies like Swatch group being restrictive of course there's no access by anyone except the authorize chosen few at the proper level. Doesn't really matter who you are basically you're screwed. H400.326.530 | Dial Jazzmaster AC42 chrome Dial Jazzmaster AC42 chromeA REF :H400.326.530 ACSIS :H400326530

The banking pins have been bent to overcome a problem the previous repairer had do not straighten them up just leave as is untill the watch is running then see how it goes, straigtening them now may give you problems later.

Putting on my Deerstalker (sherlock Homes) I would bet it pinged on to your sleeve or chest and as you went for a coffee it fell off onto thr surface and repained there till you found it. case closed Watson/

And in my case as I'm about to relinquish my enthusiast title and move up to # I might have a vague clue as to what I'm talking about # title. Personally I think the forum ranking system has made a huge mistake in letting beginner's think I have so much as an apaths worth of knowledge about watch repair Lol. But I'm taking it, I've worked bloody hard for it. Sat at home on my arse for the past 4 days on my phone, generally just babbling on and peeing people off. I have a king size Toblerone in the fridge to celebrate with that I was saving for such an auspicious Occasion. In all seriousness its maybe not much more an indication of how much time someone spends on here and how much they post and have liked. I have found as a beginner to connect with someone that you like that has good knowledge, engage your brain before askng silly questions do sum research on back posts because what you need to know might be there. Some banter is fun but above all else be polite and respectful and also expect the same back.

Repaired this old Luch 2209 for a friends birthday because he gifted me my very first book about watchmaking. The reading has payed off I would say hehe. The full walkthough will be posted in the appropriate forum soon.

Hi Never E Not one to teach Granny to suck eggs. If you do a search for the word "mediafire" one of our moderators placed for our benefit the Bestfit Books 1 and ll which are for down load with no restrictions as He owns the CD. In these books there ia a wealth of info worth haning. As regards buying job lots of staffs etc its a bit of a lottery but if you know the make and caliber number thats all it takes to find parts , When ordering always quote the make and caliber. ie AS 1700 but be aware that some calibers within the same family may use the same staff, This is where the site run by Dr Ranfft is a go to ie Google, Ranfft omega 565 and a page appears with all the relavant details of the said watch plus family details staff Number M/s size etc , as regards your question I think a look at the Ranfft site would be of value. If you have a bucket full of quartz watches you may find the attachments useful. What do you use for tecting the quartz watches. ElectricWatchRepairManual.pdf Knowledge Quartz Watch.pdf

Yey. Well done

Hi LWS It probably acts as a clutch providing the ftiction required to rive the hands

Thanks, I already have it. Very handy. I get confused when movements digress from the ones in the glossary. Like the one I pictured.

Hi as far as terminology of watch parts etc the attache ment should help, if you already recieved it good if not you may find it handy. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

So, I've never tinkered with pocket watches, they're just not my thing, I just like to wear anything I can restore, just makes me feel a little proud of myself for a while and can be a conversation starter. As you may have noticed I can talk for Britain especially about watches. Tbh it does look very similar to a type Smiths used on their cheaper Welsh stuff also Services and Ingersoll to name but a few. It's the shape of the balance cock and the click that gives it away for me. The balance cock 1 screw and 3 locating studs which you can see and then the long armed click that you can see reaching around the ratchet wheel finally engaging with it and the crown wheel near the top right. Very common, put in a quick ebay search on those 3 makes, although not used exclusively to those. I've never come across it on Swiss. I have a few smiths of both qualities. This was used on their Welsh cheap makes. Look at Smiths Empire. My best guess is either an Ingersoll or a Services. Don't pay a lot for it !

Hello from Canada I am so happy with my latest restoration/repair that I decided to share with you. a bit of history first : this watch was bought from a local jewelry in mai 2020. It was in pieces, crappy, broken stem, but otherwise complete. Cheap as it come, I think the jeweller didn’t realize that it was worth more… I bought it as the first watch to play with it, not knowing that it is a complex watch and my experience was, well… zero. Rapidly, I realized that it is over my head as a immediate project and I put it aside, not before playing a bit with the movement and, unfortunately, breaking the upper pivot of the balance. Yes, noobie error, putting pressure on the balance with your finger, I know it (now)! Several other watches were used to garner some experience and many errors and trials went on and on. I slowly disassembled the watch, cleaned the case and bracelet and decided to change the crystal also (Sternkreuz variant to the Seiko original, thanks to cousins). A new stem was found, and also a new balance complete, thanks to the big bay… I tried to learn and change the balance staff, but I miserably failed, I think I am not there yet… Finally, two months ago, I had the courage to delve in and disassemble to movement, clean it and put it together again. All went well, with some trial and error also, as the assembly is not always straightforward, ie the chronograph wheel levers and springs… but I succeeded. I learned a lot in the process and there are several small things that I would do again better, but for now, I think the result is more than satisfactory for me. so there it is: Seiko Jumbo 6139-3002 Chronograph, around 1973, restored somehow at its ancient glory! Only things changed: stem (original NOS), balance complete (Seiko original NOS), crystal (as mentioned). All in all, it is a beautifully preserved watch that I am proud to own. Even the lume is still working, quite faint, but still… Movement 6138B, around 230 degrees amplitude, beat error between 0.0 and 0.3 ms, +4s to -2s per day in all positions… power reserve above 42 hours without the chronograph, more or less 41 hours with the chronograph… It is one of my favorite watches as we speak, and also one of the most accurate!!!

Cheap Russian watches served very well to make the experience growing rapidly in my case. Still buying them from Ukraine, by the way… they are well done and usually work after cleaning, changing broken pieces and tweaking a bit. A working watch after all your efforts is the most motivating thing to keep you continuing! And also, a good stereo microscope has facilitated the work a lot! Good luck to you and keep us posted!

No problem matey, it's nice to converse with folk on the same level as me. Having similar experiences and overcoming issues. The top guys on here are great at supplying advice, but sometimes the terminology and explanation goes over my head and can be lost on beginners like me. It might be just me but when it happens I just wonder what I'm getting into, I do get a bit arsy about it and then I feel the need to open my gob and risk getting into bother about it, but hey when did that ever stop me.

Hi Never T At my age things have degenerated somewhat. Being a diabetic with other medical problems you learn to cope. My evesight is not as good as it was and myhands suffer a bit from joint pain and cold but I still manage to do jobs. At the moment an Omega 342 bumper, Oris ladies 410 (Balance), seiko 7005 overhaul, citizen E810 and an alarm clock. so age is no restriction you just work round the problem. My workshop is external to the house and can get cold so I built a portable bench (Tabletop) and in the winter work in the spare room curtesy of the Misses. So as far as aging goes just ride the wave and adapt. An other point if I may on this forum we like discussion and to certain degree indulge contributers as a lot are from around the world and are not English speakers but use translation sofrware and some times the translation does sound a bit harsh , but I for one cut a bit of slack and are quite happy that they contribute and the information is always well received. If I may in defence of John say that his information and help has always been genuine, he is entitled to his opinion as we all are. I think its time we put all this to bed and got back to hat we do best WATCHES and CLOCKS. All the best and keep asking the questions.

Hi sorry if I'm barging in on the conversation, I'm trying to learn as well. And if jrd is OK adding or correcting me with my very layman terms. If I'm correct in saying it is a sweep wheel I think. It drives the pinion that is attached to the second hand driver under the small spring. Be really careful taking off the sweep wheel, I once broke the pivot it was attached to, it was really tight, I was either unlucky or clumsy or both. Then ended up with a watch that has no second hand. There are sweep wheel removers, I can't say how well they work though. I always groan when I see something I want that has a sweep wheel now. I like Smiths watches, one of the few English watchmakers that we had, now long since gone. They sometimes have a sweep wheel, but still worth having. Worth noting that Smiths gave Rolex a run for their money in the mid 50s. Very competitive with each other. Check out the story behind it, watches on Everest.

It is on an extended pivot of the 3rd wheel, and drives the pinion that carries the sweep seconds hand.

Eyup Richard. Be a little cautious in buying anything with poor quality photos. It can be a way of obscuring defects in the watch. I'm new to this and initially got stung a few times with this tactic. The seller should be kind enough to give you more better photos if you ask them to, and I often do. Sounds geeky but I also use a big loose magnifying glass when looking at the photo, it helps me to get right in there to stop anything obvious. They will also tell you what movement it is seeing though the back is off. When you get a " I can't get the back off " mention on the listing it is a red flag and a big risk if you are still going to pursue the buy. Saying that it is fantastic when you get a break and a nice watch for little cash. I almost always buy vintage Swiss I love them, very varied and interesting. Sometimes only a few quid,and great to learn on. I noticed pin pallets mentioned, it more than likely is, I find them OK but I'm not too fussy. Played around with many, did plenty of research on them and especially on Oris as they used pin pallets predominantly at one stage, and apparently where making some that were almost reaching chronometer standards. Good luck with it let me know how it goes, any questions about this sort of buying I might be able to help you with as I do a lot of it.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

Pin pallets mov.t, you can tell by the thick balance rim needed to add inertia to compensate the inefficient escapement. These are not made anymore since quartz completely replaced them on cheap watches. I do not recommend them since you buy much better for practically the same money.

Welcome to WRT @DigitalM ! Those two guys probably are responsible for me being here. I'm stalled partially through my first watch movement restore due to waiting on oils and tools (all of which should be on their way). Hopefully you'll decide to find a real watch that you'll take on as your first restoration. I decided to skip Mark's walk through and dive in. I have a 2nd grade 313 Elgin in the wings in case things go horrible with my first and I have a Buren 10.5 Grand Prix on the way. I keep hoping that I'll find something amazing on eBay for cheap that will allow me to wear something that I brought back from the dead that I can be proud of.

I just learned something new last week which really blew my mind. All of us have Bergeon style movement holders like this. Some of us have been using them daily for many years. But did you know that the jaws can be reversed to create another 4 configurations for movements that may have cutouts where the jaws normally grip? I learned it from reading Esslinger's website. https://www.esslinger.com/watch-movement-holder-8-in-1-watch-tool/ I was simply blown away. I've had this tool for 4 years and never realised this feature. I shared it with my mentor yesterday and he was equally blown away.

Welcome to WRT forum.

I just tried this on a Vostok 2431 (24h motion works) and the result was nothing but spectacular! I put a few drops of Horosolv degreaser on the pith wood, and I guess Horosolv degreaser is benzine (or a very similar chemical)!? The movement hadn't been serviced for about eight years and there was a mix of green goo (train wheels) and black goo (centre wheel) between the pinion leaves. The green goo came off completely with little effort, but the black goo only partly. However, after having run the parts through my cleaning cycle (70 year old vintage Elma machine), all treated pinions came out looking like new; all shiny and beautiful Probably cleaner than when they left the factory. Having serviced quite many Vostok movements I know that the black goo would have remained without the "pith wood method". Previously I've been cleaning out the pinions using pointed peg wood. Extremely time consuming and boring, and the result pretty far from the "pith wood method". So, another golden tip received and put into practice thanks to @nickelsilver!

Send it here....I have three electric's that Jarett serviced. Tell him 'Diamond Van Horn' Bob sent you.

I'm waiting on a Buren 10.5 Grand Prix similar to this one. While the one coming is a sidewinder, I'm not certain that the dial/numerals are the same. Will post shots once it arrives (possibly as soon as this Saturday 16 APR).

Maybe there is a recipe in this old book. It's straight from alchemist's times. Secrets of the trade. For watchmakers and jewelers (1892).pdf

Brilliant How did you find it and where, sounds like a good storey. Pressure is off now, remember when refitting keep it covered should it try thr Houdini act again Cheers

Hi reading and understanding the results of the timing machine can some times be daunting if you do not understand the functions of the watch especially the escapement because this is the part which generates the noise (tick tock) that the machine interprets in to a display for you to read. With the above in mind I have attached th Witschi training manual for you to read through. Once read you will then understand what the machine is telling you. Timingmachines are a wonderful invention but they can lead you astray if you do not understand the out put and can lead to further complications. Years ago when I started they only existed within the sphere of the watchmakers world, amatuers had to use their ears and eyes or build tic amplifiers but still relied in their hearing. I hope the attached brings you a little enlightenment. all the best. Witschi Training Course.pdf

..... I found my Click .... perseverance is everything !!!!!! ...... and I have no idea how it got to where it got.

Theoretically you are actually correct. Oftentimes you'll see the regulator and watches pushed to the extreme to make up for a problem or perceived problem of timekeeping. Use of the problem is the watch desperately needs to be serviced. Conceivably a heavily magnetized watch could cause the same thing to happen. On discussions like this where things aren't going in the direction they should be now is the time where additional questions are needed. Like the running watch what was it doing how well was keeping time. Then the usual one was the last time the watch was serviced and it would be nice to know what watch it is. Also timing machine pictures it be nice to see a picture of the timing machine. Often times we may see or understand something that's not obvious to someone new to the use of the timing machine.

Watches that implies more than one you're only supposed to put one on the timing machine at a time. Timing machines get hopelessly confused if they're trying to time more than one watch at a time. Also what gets hopelessly confused or people answering questions when you're trying to get diagnostics from a whole bunch of watches as each watch is unique. What I thought that's what a crystal ball is for I stare at my crystal ball and I make diagnostics on the discussion group? We can but you have to slow down I suggest following the helped it's been given above one watch at a time. Proper description a picture of the watch more pictures as requested above and a picture of the timing machine. You need to have a timing procedure also. A timing procedure would be to wind the watch up let it run about 15 minutes. Put it on the machine although it can be on the machine but don't look at it for about 15 minutes. Give us a picture of dial up, dial down and at least one crown/pendant position. If it's a pocket watch crown up if it's a wristwatch crown down. Make sure it runs for about 30 seconds in each position and allow us 30 seconds stabilization time between rotating the microphone. Oh and? I see it's already been posted up above but basically we need the history of recently acquired recently serviced its condition etc. Unfortunately a whole variety of things can cause a whole variety of problems and it's always helpful to know ahead of time what were dealing with. Even though the timing machine can look at a watch sealed in its case is not entirely helpful for diagnostic purposes if we don't know the condition. If you're actually seeing a sine wave effect on the graphical display it can be caused by magnetism or a bent pivot. I'm attaching a PDF that gives you a sampling of what you might see. As stated above understanding what you see in the timing machine takes a long time to learn & grasp. It's not a clear-cut exact science sometimes. It's more of a generalization of if it looks bad your watch is having a problem if it looks good your watch is probably okay. Then as I also commented timing and more than one position is also extremely important. It's amazing how many people only look at the watch in one position and then ponder why that watch doesn't keep time. Because after all it look perfect dial down on the timing machine it's only when they put it in a pendant/crown position do they realize it may be they have a problem or even just looking at the other side they might have a problem. Timing-Machine-Charts.PDF

I have the same problem with Keys, there is some Goblin keeps moving them

Welcome to the forum Rich, which part of the onl county do liv e.. Attached a couple of documents to get you further down the hole. Ex Tadcaster/York,Leeds man. 1612608791_ToolsfortheHobbyist (2) (1).pdf TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

Welcome to WRT forum Rich.

URL for SpareParts-Watches : https://www.spareparts-watches.com/ Parts lists and diagrams:

Perhaps I should qualify that remark. While it is arguably true that with great power comes great responsibility, there is little to suggest in the recent history of mankind that those who consider themselves entitled to wield such power are ever given to consider those who have little or no access to such power. That applies as much to the fiscally wealthy and their power to lord it over the rest of us, as it does to the rest of humankind and there general disregard for the health and well being of the planet around them. The noblesse, without the oblige if you will.