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Hello all, Thought I'd share my first bezel repaint for a Vostok Komandirskie watch. Maybe not 100% original shade for the colours but I'm happy with the outcome. Eager to do more work like this. Advices and constructive criticism are very welcomed. I used Humbrol enamel paint and a leftover oiler to do the job Photos attached.

Hi I would definitly agree with the comments so far. I think its back to basics, Dismantle the watch again, remember to remove any power in the mainspring. Balance out and the pallet/fork out now put a turn on the spring does the train run down and stop with a little reverse at the end if so re fit the pallet/fork and apply power. does the pallet snap smartly from side ti side when assisted any sluggish action , dirty jewels pinions etc. The first thing is to achieve a free running train. Did you remove the mainspring, change it, Clean and oil the barrel, clean the old spring. peg out all the jewels, check all the wheel/pinions for hard dirt in the teeth or leaves. All these factors have a bearing on the delivery of power. The points highlighted by Joe are also relavant to the running of the watch.

Coil isn't centered which could push the oscilator way out of beat. You can shake the movement instead of flicking the balance (less risky) see also how it runs face up and in vertical position. Add power to center wheel ( big wheel). Observe. Did oscilator turn freely without the fork in place? Did you check staff pivots for wear? Sounds like a pivot is worn to a point that lets pivot shoulder rub. Did you oil the escape teeth? Check the end shakes. Such data somewhat helps diagnosis, report back please. Good luck

Could be a lot of things, but assuming the balance is OK it sounds like power is not making it though. Looking at your picture, to be honest the movement does not look very clean. I would guess that some dirt or old hardened grease is stuck in a pinion somewhere. How did you clean the movement?

You can try Cousins. But you'll end up with a whole box of circlips. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/pusher-circlips-cclips-non-swiss

Thanks for sharing! I like all three, with the first a clear favourite. Not something this forum member can do at home!

Reamers box and trays A (relatively) cheap set of stray reamers was crying for shelter. A suitable box was easy to get and refinish, then I made two trays from iroko wood on the milling column. Could I have 3D printed these? Sure. Would I have then liked them? No.

Back in time there were no technical sheets, service guides, exploded drawings, and the like. Just a parts list, and not even always. Repairers were supposed to know their trade when going to work on models new to them, as in observing and understanding the function of each part, maybe taking notes where necessary. Nowadays, one can easily take picture at each stage. Some names, and surely general information could be in our pinned topic below. More could be obtained from searches and consulting your country watchmaker or collectors associations.

That doesn't mean it had anything to do with removing the back, which should be straightforward as with all other similar Seiko. But it could be that some shop doesn't want to do anything to watches that are not what they want to deal with. FYI, we have a dedicated section for new members to introduce themselves first. Also, please do not hook-up into unrelated topics for new questions.

Yes I know what you mean. It was always nice when someone would bring in something that you had never seen before. That's why I always say you never stop learning in horology. I'm still learning by coming on here and that is after nearly 30 years as a watch/clock maker.

Watches with winding crown on the back plate are also called backwinder.

Is it possible that you are trapping air behind the pivot when you push it in? This has somehow to be avoided, but with Loctite around the pivot it cannot escape. Best is a mild interference fit without Loctite that leaves the air some way of escape. Then some Loctite 638 applied to the pivot base. It will fill any residual gap. Incidentally I have found that drilling for pivots is best done with an end mill after centering with a centre tool. https://drillbitsunlimited.com/Default.aspx sell suitable end mills. They 'mill' in much faster than a drill bit.

Hi the attached sheet recommends D5 for the arbour. Lubrication usually opens a can of worms as everybody has their own Ideas. Not a bad thing _RecommendedLubricantsforGettingStarted.pdf

A unfortunate problem with watches with movable banking pins or just about anything else that moves in the watch is that people like to move things.

Never seen it in a Pocket watch. I have come across something like that in small travel clocks.

Hi Find attached the 5M42A tech sheet 5M42A_5M43A.pdf

Have you checked on the website (thewatchsite.com) that watchweasol indicate before? There is a topic dedicated to a large collection of service sheets. In general, when it comes to watch documents and parts, if something is not found by a google search, it is not available at all.

If you are looking for Seiko/Citizen information specific then try "the watch site" They deal in nothing else but Seiko/citizen /epson etc

Ranfft has about zero information when it comes to non-Swiss and non-mechanical calibers. But a lot of information is available online anyway, just search and read, again and again.

The first thing to do is to check out with the Dr Ranfft database the characteristics of both watches regarding exchaning and measure the dimentions of both movements. There is a data sheet available should you require it just let me know or checkout cousins documents.

This video will give you a general idea of what's involved:

Just try it, as long it fits it will be good to go. Possibly one of our fellow members will provide you with the relevant technical sheet, these are more useful at the more advanced stage of taking apart movements and putting them back together in a better state.

My dad's 30-ish year old Seiko has white crud at the 12:00 marker. I think it is adhesive from an old repair (possibly a crystal repair with the dial still in the case?). Any thoughts? Would it be difficult to remove? I'd like to clean it off, but as a newbie I also want to leave well enough alone. I have cleaned the case and band ultra-sonically and have installed a new crystal, crown and cover gasket along with a new battery. I'm tempted to put it back together as is and give it back to him for Christmas as he never mentioned the crud to me. Thanks for your insight!