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Ready for the next half century! and the first item cleaned was the knob of the on\off switch. IMG_1199.MOV

Apologies for the wrist muck in the previous photo! It's all clean now.

Well, my curiosity wouldn't wait. I opened the back and as you can see, it's the rheostat style trimmer. I didn't pull the movement to check the date, but i'd say '73 is fairly accurate. The movement itself is incredibly clean. Makes me happy to see, should provide me with years of reliable service.

Hi To remove a glued in glass warm the case and press out the old glass then clean up the rim using a spirit base cleaner to soften the residue. cheers

Hi there, No part of your experience is wasted. Everything you've experienced so far is part of what you were meant to learn, keep on keeping on.

I have this vintage Elgin pocket watch that I repaired and from it’s serial number 805552, it was made in 1880. The Gunfight at the O.K. Corral was a 30-second shootout between lawmen and members of a loosely organized group of outlaws called the Cowboys that took place at about 3:00 p.m. on Wednesday, October 26, 1881, in Tombstone, Arizona Territory. It is generally regarded as the most famous shootout in the history of the American Wild West. The gunfight was the result of a long-simmering feud, with Cowboys Billy Claiborne, Ike and Billy Clanton, and Tom and Frank McLaury on one side and town Marshal Virgil Earp, Special Policeman Morgan Earp, Special Policeman Wyatt Earp, and temporary policeman Doc Holliday on the other side. At the gunfight the boys were wearing pocket watches as shown below. So, would anyone know what pocket watches were worn by the good guys.? This is the Elgin I have from 1880, and now runs really strong and accurate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I am a junior in high school with almost no money. My collection is stuffed with flea market finds that barely work. I have constant trouble finding parts/ repairing them as I dont know where to go for parts. I hope to have some of them fixed up for college!

@Nucejoe, you'll agree that the 4006 is NOT an entry level movement for novices or beginners. There are many parts that are not readily sourced by someone just getting started. The OP was already corrected in another post for solicitation, I don't feel this question was a direct solicitation, but as with anything in life, it's open to interpretation.

It would be difficult for us to take on the responsibility of someone else's watch. Meaning if we make it work worse or it gets lost in the mail, you'd be out a watch and we could be stuck with responsibility for it. A couple months back, Mark restored a bell-matic. It's a surprisingly complex movement. I own one in good shape, glad I didn't get one needing anything.

Second on Russian movements.

A fine looking 1969 Timex Marlin (20282469) back from my healing bench and ticking away nicely. It wouldn't wind and was held together with sticky tape. The pins were 19mm so I had to chop them out, and there was no strap, but the usual residual muck from the previous one. The winder issue was due to a broken crown retaining arm, which I swapped with one from a donor. It then got a clean and polish, and a service. The winder crown is a little worn, so I will probably address that too once it has proven that it can run for 24hrs. Looks like we have a few signs of spring on its way in the garden too, although what you can't see in the photo is that there is a steady flurry of wet sleety snow hitting the window. Oh well, nothing else for it but another cup of tea and a seat by the fire.

The Seiko is a horrible re-dialed hodge podge. I wouldn't touch that. The Tag is even worse fake.

Recieved this Timex electromechanical quartz the other day. It was running strong the moment I opened the package. It is running the same movement as the Falcon Eye. I really like the smokey, grey dial. The caseback Is engraved with initials and a date. I'm guessing it was someone's Christmas gift. I haven't opened this watch yet to check the actual year of manufacture, but it can't be any later than 1973. Another birth year for me, lol.

Now why did I not think of this before. Cousins has the Hazmat sheets, so if you want to know what is in for example Moebius 8000, you simply download the hazmat sheet. https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/skus/116_O1053.pdf Going through the above, we can see that Moebuis 8000 is a non synthetic (but still petrochemical) oil, with some secret sauce in the form of.. Parafinic hydrocarbons (the actual oil). Around £6 per liter from your local hardware store (or around 54p per liter if you substitute domestic heating oil). Neatsfoot oil, which is used in leather work, and probably accounts for the slightly yellow nature of Moebius 8000, and costs about £10 to £15 per liter (and probably much less in larger quantities). Polyacrylate as a thickener. (search ebay for Super Absorbent Polymer • Sodium Polyacrylate • Homopolymer • Hydrogel • Slush) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylate_polymer 2,6-Di-tert.-butyl-4-methylphenole which is used as an ant-oxidant to help extend the life of the product. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butylated_hydroxytoluene p.p'.-Dioctyldiphenylamine is also an anti-oxidant used in oils. http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/finechem/DIOCTYLDIPHENYLAMINE.htm "Antioxidant is a substance added in small quantities to hydrocarbons which are susceptible to oxidation, such as rubbers, plastics, foods, and oils to inhibit or slow oxidative processes, while being itself oxidized. " So in theory, all you need is some baby oil, heating oil or similar, some neatsfoot oil and a couple of drops of anti-oxidants and you can roll your own. Given that genuine Moebuis 8000 comes in at around £4 per ml (in other words £4,000.00 per liter) I can see there might be a slight temptation to make it from scratch, if it were not for the fact that a single bottle of the stuff typically lasts for ages.

I'm pretty confident you will get some of those going. Shame about the pivot. There is a pretty good chance you can source a replacement balance staff though, or even a complete balance. https://www.balancestaffs.com/product.php

Pictures help! the first thing you need to do is figure out what you've got.

The donor pallet fork worked ! thank you guys .

Back in "sunny" Perthshire after our India trip. Back to floods, snow and high winds (and an exciting flight in to Edinburgh last night in a Dash 8 Q400 in "marginal" conditions), so I swapped my favorite little workhorse 19 jewel Sekonda TV face, (which performed flawlessly I might add), for something a little more sunny. A bright champagne dial "Crown Watch" with gold hands. Now I'm about to take advantage of a lull in the weather to take a quick look round the garden and see what is still there, and what has been washed away or blown down.

If I'm not mistaken that's for an air line to a compressor. High volume shops will skip the pump handle and hook right into their compressed air which is inevitably there already. Looks like a push-release fitting, on these the line (hard plastic) pushes in and is sealed. To remove you push and hold in the bit visible in the photo, the line comes right out. If you don't press that in the line is next to impossible to remove and and you get what's seen in the photo.

This "well used" junghans came in lot .it came to me with a broken stem ,no crown or tube.It was repaired with a stem extender and a new tube and crown were fitted.It runs surprisingly well.

In most cases an embedded microphone doesn't give a signal strong enough. So an amplified one has to be used.

Thanks I'm an Analytical Chemist by trade, I think there some more Chemists on the forum too. I've worked in forensics lab/identifying unknown materials before, was a lot of fun. Wish I had a lab of my own for questions like this