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Agree and you also have balance washers as well that can be added for weight, they have to be added evenly, if not the balance will be out of true.

In the past, like over 50 years ago, each spring was vibrated to its balance. Each balance, while superficially identical, could be different enough from the next one in the box to make the hairsprings incompatible. The modern method is more automatic, the springs are colleted then cut to a given length, the terminal curve formed, stud attached. They are then each tested and graded into about 20 categories; the balances are likewise graded into 20 categories. If you look at the results of the categorization, it makes a nice bell curve, with the majority falling within perhaps 4-5 middle spots, the rest dispersed in decreasing numbers towards the ends. The balances and hairspring are just mated according to the category. If you try to mate a Cat 1 spring to a Cat 20 balance it won't work at all. If you try between Cat 9,10,11, it may work OK. Of course there's no way to know which one is which once it leaves the timing department of the factory. Balances with screws add a dimension of adaptability as you can add and remove weight easily. Solid balances can only have weight removed, and the adjustment is permanent.

With a very small drill on the underside of the rim. There are machines used in manufacturing that can very accurately determine the heavy spot and then very accurately remove material (the old machines used drill, the newer ones use a micro slitting saw). For the bench watchmaker how much to remove for poising is a matter of experience; the drill is usually held in a pinvice, and might be something like 0.20mm diameter.

If everything is identical and the whole thing mass produced. Then it should be fine with only a tiny adjustment needed.

I love this watch, it's stunning...

Hi If its a screw cover just nip it up firm dont over tighten it strains the threads. As far as the bracelet goes they can be shortened by removing pieces (pic2) with a pair of pliers but they are a pain. Is the foldover clasp at its limit.

I guess the name of this metric system is adapted in horology, CGS; Centemeter, Gram, Seconds. Use of this term would have saved me a lot of strugling just to expalin a simple question. Best Regards. and thank you for the time you put in.

If you mean the same CGS number (that is how they are classified), then yes, they should be the same.

I would use a watchmakers lathe.

Hi As stated by Watchmaker you need to remove the three screws to remove the clamp underneath you will fin a coin cell, 2016, 2032. I have enclosed the file Lorus watch care which will give you the correct battery for your watch(lithiumcell). Lorus Watches - Care of Your Watch.pdf

The battery is being held in position by a 'clamp'. The clamp has three cross-head screws which you'll need to undo to release it and access the battery.

Do you have a dial washer? If not that can be the cause. Sometimes even without a dial washer and there being enough space between the dial and hour wheel to allow it to disengage, the minute hand will limit the vertical movement of the hour hand/wheel. Maybe you had a situation where it was almost secure but when the hour wheel is under tension arming the date wheel it just makes it to skip a tooth.

@ITProDad Frustratingly I cannot say for certain the issue. I disassembled the watch to remove and inspect the hour wheel, intermediate date wheel, and calendar driving wheel. All appeared clean and undamaged under 10x mag. Reassembled the movement, installed a generic movement hour hand, and wound. Tested the date change over night and by hand setting the time. It all works fine now. Reassembled the watch, retested....it's all working fine. My guess is it was dirty or had something causing the teeth to misalign - and that was dislodged when I removed the wheels. Case unsatisfying-ly closed.

Its a 1970s Poljot 2906H based Soviet era TV face for me today, on an authentic Poljot steel bracelet.

If the movement is different Hz i think they can have different HS . Been there with a AS 1746. They come in different HZ versions . Didn't work and at first i could figure out why.

There is a good chance that would work. Of course there is only one way to find out, and that is to try it.

Hi Joe, good question one would assume so, bearing in mind that if the balance wheel and staff weight are the same within the same family. I guess the only way is to weigh the wheel and spring as a pair from random members of the same family.

TV Dial! From a couple of days ago, but I'm still wearing it.

Just went to a wedding and decided to wear my vintage Heuer Ref. 73473, circa 1971-72. This watch is very unusual when compared to other Heuers, and not many made. But interestingly not very sought after by Heuer collectors. As for me, I love the Classic 70's look. It is powered by the Valjoux 7734 and fitted on a vintage beads and rice bracelet.

I just finished this 1966 Gruen Date Miner. I had three of these movements just sitting in a do to bin. I was waiting on getting a case. I finally found one and now it's back in action. I was able to use me new old LnR master. It is running really good. New service including gaskets, new stem. It is now my favorite for the movement. Thx,

I have owned a Timegrapher 1900 for over a year now & can not fault it. Apart from the instructions which are very basic.

I see, but regardless I need to replace the crown, so if I can't get an original from Invicta what do I do?