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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/19 in all areas

  1. It is always that 1% that catches you out, thanks @JerseyMo for the clarification.
    1 point
  2. nope, that is not a front loader. I've never seen a US Time and or Timex with a #21 that is a front loader. I'd say it was not until 1959 - 1960 when the 100 series with aluminum case came out that there was a fron loader in the line-up. to remove the movement from the one above you simply remove the rubber ring along with the metal ring.
    1 point
  3. The one for Seiko is the 2534-X. The other is for ETA, 480mm (or 465 ?), not 420. I have notified them about that. Relevant catalogue with handwritten annotation. https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/7819_GR Pages 225-234.pdf
    1 point
  4. Hi and thanks @oldhippy and @nickelsilver. LOL @Nucejoe, yeah everything in AZ is weaponized and will draw blood, even the mesquite trees think they're cacti!
    1 point
  5. with a watch like this , i find that running the movement while immersed in naphtha works well.the moving parts and solvent tend to carry the crud away, depending on how dirty the watch is you might want to change the naphtha two or three times or until it stays clear. then dry and oil.
    1 point
  6. Here you have a walkthrough of a 2451 (Seiko Silverwave diver from 1964) and a 6601 (1964 and all that: Part II) which I think it's about the same thing according to the part list. Maybe they are not very detailed in every step, but may help you. https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/category/seiko/6601/
    1 point
  7. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. Buy the best tools you can afford Dumont tweezers a must have. Good set of watchmakers screwdrivers Bergeon Screwdrivers are what I had, last a lifetime.
    1 point
  8. Welcome here. Check dedicated WRT section https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/links/watch-clock-repair-suppliers/ I suggest that you heavily use the search box top right to immediately obtain a complete answer to virtually any question.
    1 point
  9. Hi John, Welcome to WRT forum. CausinesUK sources parts, tools however, it is more matter of quality/ brands, esslinger.com seems a good source. Search function brings you threads on the subject.
    1 point
  10. This is my watch for today, my recently repaired Pierce 103 (SC?). I absolutely adore if and it was easier to get parts for it I would wear it every day!
    1 point
  11. So I haven't been updating this much as it was taking a super long time to get parts. I was able to order a new balance staff buuuut in the process of switching over the hairspring and little jewel thing (still learning) I damaged the hairspring quite badly. Before attempting this operation I made sure to check that I could order a complete balance from jules borel, just in case. So, $90 later, I had my new balance. I was actually able to clean up the modifications that a previous watch "repairer" had done. I think they were trying to use a balance staff they had lying around to just get it running again but they really just made a mess of it. Putting everything back to factory brought the endshake into an acceptable amount. It's been running for a few weeks now without issue. Super happy to finally have fixed this watch and be able to wear it!!!
    1 point
  12. This is the progress so far. The first image is the ebay seller's pic and the description was "Does not start, maybe battery but unable to confirm". In reality, it wouldn't wind, wouldn't set and the scratched up crystal looked even worse in real life (and the second hand had fallen off in the post), but I figured it had to be the twin of the one I already had, and therefore was well worth the 0.99p I bid.
    1 point
  13. Thanks for the correction regarding the movement. You are spot on with the fiddly calendar works, the first one I looked at, I launched those two springs more times than I care to mention, however forewarned is forearmed, so this one came as no surprise, and I even remembered which way round everything went without having to dig out my pictures of the first teardown. If you are aware of the issues and take care to do things very gently, the calendar works go back together reasonably easily. I did mange to gocha myself with the keyless works by pulling the crown out with the stem in the wrong position, but I knew I had been an idiot the moment I did it, so I only managed to indulge in that one screwup. The watch is running well, but I haven't attempted to adjust it yet. Beat error is around .1 to .3ms and it kept up a good pace, within 20 seconds or so over the course of the day even without me tinkering with it. I'll let the lubrication settle and do a bit more with it tomorrow. The amplitude is still a little low at around 240 fully wound, so there is scope for a little improvement in that too. The other one runs around 270, so there is no reason to think this wont. I have an almost complete spare movement, including a mainspring, etc.so if I need parts I have them. That red and gold Poljot on your "About me" page is a cracker, as are the others in your collection.
    1 point
  14. What you have there are hand setters used for clocks, some are push on some screw on. You would see those types on old 30 hour alarm clocks, any old clock that you needed to set the hands normally at the back. Also some set the alarm hands. If there are really tiny ones I expect those would be from travel alarm clocks.
    1 point
  15. The 6119 is one of my favourite Seikos.. Anilv
    1 point
  16. thank you for the advice, i changed over the date and then noticed that the screws were not the right ones, so replaced them and now all is good and going and keeping good time.
    1 point
  17. Always on these spots with setting levers. My master told me with setting levers whenever too steel parts touched that spot should have lube oil or grease.
    1 point
  18. Some updates about the balance itself: The hairspring isn't looking too great. On further inspection from the side I'm pretty sure that either I (likely) or the last watch repairman (less likely) bent it. I'm also remembering cleaning out a large amount of debris from inside the incabloc chaton, underneath the pierre a trou. I vaugly remember it being on the plate side, but not 100% on that. At any rate I think the pivot is worn down: The other side looks much better.
    1 point
  19. Maybe this is more to everyone's taste. It doesn't really count as my watch of the day though since it is still in transit, and in need of some TLC before I can wear it. On the plus side its not every day you get a watch named after you. Queue the 'I didn't know your name was "The Hatton"' .. quips. It easily blew my 404 budget I must confess.
    1 point
  20. Today It´s time to present some Swedish coolness, Lagonda. This brand was a mail order watch from the late 40's and onward to an for me unknown date. It was an OEM watch made for a mail order company in Gothenburg. They came with a wide range of movement's from Felsa, AS, ST, ETA and many others and up to a whooping 41 jewels (no idea where the amount of jewels would go). This watch is a Lagonda Amiral Sport, naval and sports what a great combo ! (Amiral = swedish for Admiral). Powered with an AS/ST 1950/51 it's hammering away with a beat of 21600 A/h against your wrist. A great fun for a great price..
    1 point
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