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Yup, ah did.

No problem . Just send an Email to Mikael and i am sure he will help you. He is a great guy.

If it's specifically quartz (showing my bias, as I have a general dislike of Solar and Kinetic watches.) This is a far better proposition and currently can be had at £135 ! If quartz accuracy is your thing I believe these are accurate to 10 seconds a year Guaranteed Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

This isn't a question but more a method that someone else my want to try. (A new spring clip would have cost me $5.) The Seiko 7S26C I was working on had a loose day wheel spring clip. I tightened it by holding it with tweezers and then while holding the clip with the tweezers I put the tweezers between a movement holder and by turning the knob on the movement holder squeezed the tweezers and the spring clip they were holding together. Worked very well and now the day wheel is being held in place by a tight spring clip.

Check with urdelar.se i think he could help you find one. I found some movements with tension spring that had no jewel. All of them had wear straight thru the metal.

There is some Tissot 27 that has the same tension spring. Bot with and without jewel. I think there is a Omega movement to.

Its a seconds hand pinion tension spring it holds the pinion in place if its not in place the pinion will disengage causing the seconds hand to behave erratically.

yeah the chucking end of drills are not hardened, and if they're hss you wouldn't be able to heat treat them. The ends are left soft so the chuck can get a grip on them. This one reason why you're not suppose to use an endmill in a drill chuck - its hardened all the way along itself can easily spin in a drill chuck because the jaws get no bite. One has to select the quench to match the steel. W1 is a water quench, O1 is oil etc. The differences are the speed of the quench - you'll get O1 in oil about the same rockwell as you will W1 in water. Oil is slower than water, cold brine fastest of all. O1 in water is too fast and you risk cracks. W1 in oil is too slow, you want get full hardness. Don't forget to temper though! Of the different tool steels, ie if not buying pre done blue temper stuff, I'd recommend a length O1 oil hardening tool steel (aka drill rod but not all drill rod is O1!). Traditionally a little more expensive that W1, the quench is a little slower than for W1. A couple of bucks for a three foot length of 1/8" diameter will last a looooong time and its easy to machine as it comes annealed so is also good for practice

I must say it's just a poxy design.

No no, the OP has right. The clutch here is on the barrel. Its a Roskopf-type solution. And Clockboy is also right, one can tighten it with a light tap to increase friction.

I seem to remember servicing a watch movement with that style of barrel/wheel set up. If my memory is correct this set up requires a certain amount friction to drive the wheel. The mistake I made was to clean & then lubricate which reduced the friction required. I had to give it a light tap with a closing punch to give it back the friction required.

A Ramon special back from the dead Full detox (it was GROSS!) Bezel lightly sanded (Had weld splatter) Bezel numbers repainted Incorrect corroded 7s26 counterweight replaced New crystal with correct bevel Replaced partial clasp with one from donor bracelet Haven't serviced the movement as that is still out of my range of skills at the moment and lack of permanent work area doesn't help but it's currently running at -1min per 24hrs approx. From this To this

I know exactly how you feel and I have a very simple method for you. (it won't necessarily make things easier but you won't lose any parts) I, too, struggle with incabloc parts so what I do is very simple. I actually put the movement on the movement holder into a transparent plastic zip lock bag along with the small components that have to be installed. Then I simply fiddle around with the springs and the stones by using a thin tweezer (with care in mind so as not to damage anything or puncture the bag) until it works. There are more complicated incablocs out there than the standard lyre shaped spring and this is what really helped. One extra "tip". I would put the stone in it's slot, then the spring more or less into it's intended place, and to prevent it from jumping around I use the bag to block it from jumping by simply resting 2-3 of my fingers around the spot where I'm working. Just enough so that the bag will act like a wall that prevents the spring from jumping but not too much so that I would bend it. I hope you understand what I'm saying... Good luck!

Lord Matic with its NOS crystal now fitted

No problems with magnetism this weekend.