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This should be helpful: http://miyotamovement.com/product/mfunction3.html

I just found out that Omega do a later version of Redima tick which id still current today.

Redima could mean girl. In Sanskrit Riddhima is girl. Take care if the watch is from India? Could be a fake?

And help was given. In the end, you're still quibbling about nothing, when the OP has already extended his thanks to everybody. Time to move on, right?

Ok, I reassembled the keyless works and the wheels for time setting yesterday evening and it works. Thanks to FlyingWatchmakers advice I knew where to look. Here is a pic of the downside of the minute wheel. Easy to spot the 3 mentioned areas which work as springs. I put a very little amount of 9501 in this area and blocked the minute wheel to test. Time setting works with a good feeling of some friction.

Also my preferred tool for tightening cannon pinions. I purchased a set of end cutters for about £5, drilled and tapped M5 and fitted a cap screw, job done!

Shellite is good for the rinse, but you do really need proper cleaning solution for the initial wash. I use turps 70% to 80% shellite 20% for the first rinse and 100% shellite for final rinse. At my watch cleaning school we make our own watch cleaning fluid, but its not really practical to make your own for just yourself as some of the active ingredients and very expensive and unless you are making 20 litres or more it isn't worth doing. Unfortunately there really isn't an alternative to buying the real watch cleaning solution, but save yourself some money and skip buying their rinse. Where in Australia are you?

Do not use naphta at all, it may explode (if it is what we in Germany call 'Benzin')! I use Elma 9:1 myself and I am satisfied with the results. 2nd jar destillated water, 3rd jar Isopropanol. Frank

Find me on FB! Just turned the staff in the gallery in online stream ... 4-5 hours of joy

Yes the "square bolt" and arbour are one and the same part, the square end is just machined/filed on the arbour. Difficult to know for sure, but I would say it is the original design, as it is quite complex. If it was a fix it is likely the same result would have been achieved by simpler means, with a screw or a tapered pin. But who knows!

Hi all , and first of all thank you for all the pointers, it has given me the confidence to progress this. I applied the "24h rule" and came back to this today, and I am pleased to report I have successully disassembled the ratchet wheel. It turned out to be much easier than I expected. I started by lining up the square. As Stuart pointed out there are wear marks along the edge of the slot, which gave me the confidence to try a bit harder to slide the washer. I applied pressure at the end of the slot with a piece of pegwood to avoid any damage, and eventually the washer did move and its edge went over the recess. What became obvious only after disassembly is that the washer was actually dished, and therefore acting as a spring (hence the "no play" I had observed). So it had the ability to flex to go past the edge of the recess of the ratchet wheel. I was initially very reluctant to even try this as I expected a flat washer, which would have simply butted against the edge, no matter how much pressure was applied. Mystery solved, I have taken some detailed pictures given the interest this thread generated, so I will let them do the talking!