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"We" are NOT nerds. We prefer to go by WIS [emoji4]

At least he could give you some advise? He is a very helpful guy. Check Wristsushi out? A forum for Seiko nerds

Also Adrian over at VintageTimeAustralia. Postage costs are reasonable even to me in UK.

I think a friend Mr kudarson could have some also? oldswisswatches.

Try Stephan AKA schillachi61 in eBay. I've bought a few parts from him and he's very quick and reasonably priced.

Have you put the watch on a timegrapher yet? If not, have you closely inspected the balance action under a high magnification loupe? I'd be surprised if it was a mainspring issue.

Don't know if they'll have the parts but you could try: http://www.speedtimerkollektion.com/shop/index.php There are other specialist suppliers too but I can't find the links to them. Damn it, thought I had them all bookmarked.

Good luck . Never ever heard or seen that done? Maybe just maybe you could try put it in a staking tool and put some pressure on the top and very gentle try to bend it back. This wheels aren't repairable? Look for a used one on Ebay? Have seen but not sure if any is available at the movement? But no harm trying to straighten it anyway?

No floor sweeping for you.

My set up that I have been using for a while is that I wear a apron & I attach the end parts of it to my work bench with quick set clamps so any fliers just land in the lap of the apron. The other tip is to have your tweezers dressed correctly this is a must.

that definitely clears up a lot about this caseback. good to know. thank you, ishima. and thanks for the request, louis.

I've been working on my little collection of watches (Seiko 5106, ETA 536.121 in a Birk's branded diver, ETA 2783 in a Benrus, ETA 2789 running a really nice Mirexal dial/case, 1950's Wittnauer Automatic in the queue for an overhaul)) for about a year now and I've decided that Rodico, good tweezers, excellent screwdrivers, eye-glass mount loupe lens, and decent cleaning fluids and u-sonic machine - plus the all-important "large" turkey roasting bag - are my favorite tools. I will get a real watch cleaning machine at some point, and a timer. And probably progress to jewel and balance work in the not too distant future. I've also discovered that the mechanics of precision work, mostly thanks to Mark's great videos and Martin's unbelievably good writing and photos in "adventuresinamatuerwatchfettling", are pretty accessible and moderately straightforward to learn. So far, I've stuck to stripping, cleaning, lube and re-assembly, plus replacing worn or damaged parts, including crystals. What I haven't been able to quickly understand is the sourcing of parts, cross referencing, sources of information (technical manuals), and how much experience and knowledge counts for knowing how to identify and source replacement parts. Even mundane things like a cross reference between my Seiko 5106-8010 to the OEM replacement crystal number takes me an hour of checking on the internet, or deciding what the correct gasket/o-ring size for a watch case back is still a matter of fear and trepidation. i hope that comes with experience and practice - but from my perspective, that is the hardest part of watch maintenance (I'm not going to claim I'm repairing) - identifying replacement parts for my old watches. luckily, this site, forum and friendly community exists to help. Thanks to everyone who asks and answers questions - your curiousity and skills feed my own and I appreciate the thoughtful, supportive, generous nature of forum users. Attached is the 5106 - a 33 jewel marvel from Seiko. A ton of parts, but they all serve a purpose - hacking seconds, instant/simultaneous day/date change, manual date change, automatic and manual wind, and every jewel supports a rotating shaft. Happy New Year! Bill

Its a UT 29c movement. I don't think they make it anymore. I bought this one used, but it works fine. The original had a broken mainspring, which I ended up misplacing, so I can't measure it to get a new one. The replacement was cheap anyways. Helzberg is a chain of jewelry stores over here. There used to be one in Duluth, which is probably where this one was purchased originally. I'm not sure it my dad bought it, or if my grandpa did. My aunt seems to thing this was my grandpa's watch and my dad inherited it after he died. That would explain why he liked it so much.

To clarify, this watch does not take a regular rubber o-ring, it takes a hard, red plastic ring. that necessarily fills the significant space that was designed between the case and case back.

Here they are together. I am pleased with the results overall. But, I will still look for a dial. Here it is recased. And, of course, the before and after. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

OMG....they make electric guitars out of aluminum...never seen one. I have a resonator, but nothing like this. fascinating.

Jules Borel gives you the interchangeability for this part here http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=e[`H\M They appear to have the spring in stock at $5.82

Hello Shirley and welcome, your intro gave a fascinating insight into your family history and if you are able to take a basic watch apart and put it back together that is a skill that is present already so take heart and forge onward as there are many that aspire to do just that. I have been tinkering for a while and have an interest in the Accutrons which can be a tad testy but a lovely American watch and way ahead of its time. Cheers, Vic

Hi Mtsaz, I hope that the above is of some help, it is a 2783 but should be the same as the 2784. It should be possible to install the jumper and the spring as above but you have to ensure that the opposite date ring retaining plate is secure first so that the date ring doesn't move about too much. I install the jumper first and then the spring. With the spring I first of all get the leg that goes against the jumper in place, and then using a piece of peg wood on top of the "U" bend in the spring to hold it all in place I push the other leg into position with tweezers. I then very carefully place the retaining plate on top and secure it with the screw. This is an operation that is prone to the spring making a bid for freedom and often takes 2 or 3 attempts. The peg wood helps to control things, I have also heard of people using rodico over the spring to reduce its range if it goes. Another trick is to perform this operation inside a clear poly bag which can drastically reduce the search time. I am however intrigued by Rogart's suggestion of installing the spring through the hole. I will have to try that because if it works then it has to be the way to go, and it would explain why the hole is there. Good luck :-)