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okay piling on the Seiko bandwagon, don't wear this too often, but it's so cool even the wife likes it!

Desk diving today with Seiko 6309-7040 from Dec 1984. Has been reworked with new hands, dial, bezel insert and case base been lightly polished. This is one of the easiest wearing divers watch I've had the pleasure to slap on my wrist and fits ok under the sleeve of a dress shirt. This case style originally came with a black bezel but the guy I bought it from fitted a 'Pepsi' bezel. Looks good and it'll probably stay this way. I have to say the quality of aftermarket parts is really goods these days..the only problem with the ones here is the poor lume. Close up of the dial..alignment of the '150m' could be better! Anil

Took out my Seiko 7T32-6N10 for a walk to buy some bread this morning...

Another Accurist that I've just finished renovating. Has an Enicar 410 movement, and after a bit of hairspring manipulation, runs just fine. I'm thinking it's from the '50s, not sure.

Actually Vinn, it's a little known trick, Potassium Aluminium ...sulfate? (i forget the full name) chemically corrodes steel over a long time (which comprises most screws and stems) and leaves stainless steel and some other metals perfectly intact. Useful if a stem has snapped off flush with the crown and there's no way to unscrew. Funnily enough I only know about it because of this forum when I asked about Visin which is a more potent but more expensive and hazardous means to the same end. To answer your question JDM I found some on Amazon, under a food department as it's added to bread to whiten it.

So googling your watch I did find the company but I can see they were too many help. One of the problems with companies claiming to make watches is they really don't make them themselves they just sell them. So that means they have zero spare parts for anything. So if you Google watch you find it to 17 jewel 9730 hand wind which seems almost useless. Then to track down the movement becomes more interesting as the only reference to it seems be back to the watch you have almost of no help. So did find a catalog of movements page 5 appears to be the one you have. The problem with Chinese movements will be getting a part perhaps. It would be nice if you could get the stem out so we could see it and measure it. The reason is looking at the movement disregarding all the complications vaguely looks like a clone of a Swiss movement. On the same page just below this movement is 9211 looks vaguely like a eta 6497 so if you're lucky perhaps it uses the same stem. http://www.ptsresources.com/beta2/movement/catalog.pdf http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_6497_1

The same applies to Alum

Do you mean lume? a bunch of seller carry it on the bay

Wow, you were everywhere Alexander! Great vacation if I may add! By the way, were you here? This is a place where those 4 Estates meet. It used to be a not very glamorous (so to speak) crossroad full of miths and mystery. I see they have changed the spot a bit lately but I suppose it is still a curiosity. I think it is featured in an old movie but I can't remember which. In perspective, this is where you would be standing if in that circle: ...and there is also some tribal lands belonging to the Aboriginal American Indians...which give it a flavor of Old West to the whole thing! Oh, well, back to the original thread, I'm still curious about the use of the trueing caliper since I don't have one and intend to get one in the future. There are also different types I think. Some have a "handle" and others are like the one you have...All a little confusing considering size and "features?". Cheers, Bob

I have built a franken movement from a NH36 with fourth wheel and cannon pinion from a 7S26A . Just to get the high down. Changed the movement ring for a black also. Now working nice inside a orange monster that had a 6r15 from the start. Cousinsuk didn't have any 6R15 at the time. So that was the only option i could do.

The Ebay crown/stem is OK, but the Seiko is the sophisticated choice, as it it more expensive. Cousins UK sells the 6R15 and others the NE15, which is the same. For a different take you could get a 4R15 from Cousins, has 50 hrs power reserve but no hacking or hand wind, which is awkward anyway with a screw-down crown..

Thank you for a quality thread, full of excellent pictures and great information. The forum could do with a lot more like this!

6R15 is more expensive partly because of the higher spec SPRON springs used (better power reserve for the mainspring and less prone to positional and temperature variances with the hairspring) but Rob at Monsterwatches can get them and the Sarb crown. You do need a different hour wheel and a day disc though. 4R36/NH36 is an easier install but the fourth wheel/seconds hand pinion is a little taller. This probably isn't a problem for a big case like the 7s26-0020/SKX007 but on a thinner seiko5 might foul the inside of the crystal unless adding a domed crystal. I went for the Sarb crown (which is fine for both the 6r15 and the 4r36/NH36) because it seemed a more complete answer to the solution as it is already the right length. I have seen that a few people have commented that the aftermarket crown can sometimes bind on the thread and not pop out as it should but I guess this may depend upon how accurately you can cut the stem to the correct length. I haven't tried the aftermarket route so can't comment on a first hand basis. The pictures show the SARB059 crown and stem combination on the left and the SKX crown and stem combination on the right. Also the Hour wheel from the 6R15 on the left has a higher profile which won't allow the day wheel to sit down flush. The hour wheel on the right is from a 7s26/4r36/nh36.

Hello Chris your addiction will only get worse I'm afraid once that first repair springs to life your hooked. Have fun ask questions if you don't ask you don't learn and post pics to help the lovely people here help you with your problems. Mick

Seiko SRP275 with new dial, hands and chapter ring. Been wearing this one all week.

These are before and after pictures of my just completed restoration Waltham size 18 15jewel 81 grade model 1883 sterling silver hunter case pocket watch. The only thing I didn't do myself was fitting the new balance crystal, because I don't have a set of staking tools. I'm very pleased with how it turned out.

If you haven't got bent pivots or cracked/chipped jewel then the balance wheel is bent, not good for isochronism. I personally true balance in calipers and would suggest this is the best place to do it. There are two Truing processes, one in the flat and one in the round , always start in the flat first. Start at the balance arms always flat these first and then when the balance is true at the arms work your way round until the balance is flat. Small amounts of pressure can alter the flat quite easily, so no hammers involved!. Truing calipers are made for this purpose, the balance staff does not sit on the smallest pinion but sits on the first shoulder of the pinion. On good quality Truing calipers a hole is seen a short distance from the end of the bush, with a good loupe you can actually see into the hole and see if the pinion ends are straight themselves when the balance is turned in the calipers, just make sure the calipers are fairly tight up to the staff shoulders before attempting truing, you don't want to break the pinion so. There is an adjustable Truing gauge attached to all good Truing calipers, it's there for a purpose. You will notice a small vee in the Truing gauge, this allows you to miss any adjustment screws that may be in the way of the gauge when rotating the balance., Truing in the round is a different matter but still done in the Truing calipers. Best tool for this is a small flat notched lever bar. This sits over the rim of the wheel and is used to bend the rim inwards or outwards. It's specifically thin to get into the gaps between the adjustment screws. Always true from the top of the balance wheel, not the bottom. It takes time and can be frustrating, but with practice it's doable. Don't forget to check poise afterwards!.