Introduce Yourself Here
New to the community? We like to know who we are chatting with :)
So why not introduce yourself here first!
4742 topics in this forum
-
- 17 replies
- 4.6k views
-
- 3 replies
- 521 views
-
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
-
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
-
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
-
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
-
- 4 replies
- 789 views
-
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
-
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 4 replies
- 1.8k views
-
- 4 replies
- 2.1k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
-
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
-
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 12 replies
- 3.2k views
-
- 5 replies
- 2.8k views
-
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
-
- 4 replies
- 350 views
-
- 3 replies
- 706 views
-
- 5 replies
- 760 views
-
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.3k views
-
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
-
@mbwatch @JohnR725 I checked the hairspring to see if it’s between the regulator pins, and indeed it is, so that’s not the culprit, unfortunately. Thanks for the suggestion; I had forgotten to double-check that when I re-installed the balance. In terms of what’s not working @JohnR725, I should have been clearer. For the oscillation test, in the dial-down position, the time dropped from over a minute to something more like 20-30 seconds. It’s markedly worse than it was before I lubricated the balance jewels. Which opens up a number of different questions: Did I mess something up in oiling the jewels? Too little oil? Reinstalled incorrectly? The jewels are in good condition, btw. I looked closely at the cap jewels and the hole jewels. They’re all original and fine. No scratches, dings or cracks. Has something changed with my shim given the repeated removals of the balance? I checked the end shake as best I can, and it seems ok. In terms of starting out with a practice movement @JohnR725, I did that. In fact, I worked on a Seagull ST-36, which unless I’m mistaken, is a Unitas 6497 clone. I stripped and re-assembled that movement three times, familiarizing myself with all of the parts, taking notes, photos, etc. I then oiled on my last assembly, but didn’t attempt to regulate. Performance was slightly worse on the timegrapher after oiling. In hindsight, what I should have done was spend even more time disassembling, re-assembling and attempting to regulate the movement. Lesson learned! After the ST-36, I tackled my grandfather’s Hamilton 974. It took me a little while, but I restored it to working order after replacing a few parts and troubleshooting one performance issue. I didn’t oil and regulate, because I wanted to practice more before I tackled that task. At that point, I was confident enough to try another pocket watch. Enter the Elgin in this thread. I had a misplaced sense of confidence after my previous efforts, and dove in with disassembly, cleaning, fixing obvious issues (missing crystal, rusted click spring). Then the DU/DD problem cropped up, and I entered the rabbit hole. Again, in hindsight, what I should have done at this point was NOT go down the rabbit hole. Instead I should have gone back to the ST-36 and spent some more time with deeper work and practice there. With that said, I would not have had any practice with balance staff repair, because there would have been no need. Working with balance staffs seems like a Catch-22 to me. You can only get the experience by doing it, but you need the experience to do it. If I had not found this entire process interesting, helpful, and a great learning experience, I wouldn’t have continued. I’ve tried repeatedly to express my thanks for the time all have invested in this lively thread, and I’ll do it again: Much appreciated @mbwatch @nevenbekriev and others! And to be clear, many thanks to you (that was implied 🙂 ). -
Hi all. This is my first post for repair advice so I’ll do my best to explain what info I’m looking for.  I have a minute repeater in a rolled gold hunter case but the stem and crown are missing. looking at the movement it is Swiss made and operates well. I’d like to make or purchase the stem but I’ve found a crown that fits. The case is a Thomas Russell & Son (Uk) but also marked Elgin so a US.case. the neck (if this is the correct terminology) that the stem goes through and into the movement doesn’t have any threads either internally or externally. My first question is, would this have a sleeve that goes in to the neck that the stem would go in to? I’ve looked tirelessly to find info on this particular movement for information on the stem configuration but everything I’ve found differs slightly from this. Some have stems screw in to the neck and some just sit in there. Second question, how would the stem be secured in place on this movement? I’ve found a another stem and crown and it winds well and moves the hands but it’s the wrong stem but the crown will be fine. Oh looks like the hour hand is wrong and it’s missing the seconds hand too. Anyway that’s it for now, there’s only so much I can digest. I look forward to your advice and hope for documentation on the correct stem/sleeve/crown  to get this beautiful watch running again. Many thanks mark
-
Your diagnosis of a missing screw is probably correct - the tip of it should be visible in your photo but is not. However, installing the screw still may not fix the problem if the Date Click Spring (2576) is worn out. Those very thin metal parts can wear down where they insert into the plate, causing them not to stay affixed as well as they should. But replacing the screw first would be good to test. I do not think it is the same screw as in the rotor. In the M31 diagrams, the rotor screws appear shorter than the "short" pillar screw. But the screw threads should be the same for all the pillar screws, for all Timex movements. If you obtained a junk Timex movement from ebay or elsewhere and removed one of the regular pillar screws (5100), I expect it would fit that hole. I think you could use any Timex >M24 mechanical movement to get a fitting screw. If it was too long protruding and interfered with something on the back of the movement (like the rotor), you could file the tip of the screw down until it no longer got in the way. I suggest this because again, I do not expect a watchmaker to be willing to help you source this part. -
-
