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About mysterymike

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  1. I have studied the data sheet at some length and there is nothing obvious to me. On the right of the frame drawing there are a couple of sections showing 2 screws - I assume ? these are for fixing the movement and the strap might just fit these screws - but I would then expect two straps to be supplied to fit the two screws.
  2. Just googled dial washer and the first part is definitely a dial washer - not sure if I need it though. I will struggle to photo the other part it is so small - I am of out now will have a go later today. It is only about .5mm thick. I was wondering if it is some sort of strap to secure the movement in place.
  3. I received my Ronda 703 movement today, it had a couple of extra parts with it that I have no clue what they are for. The first is a brass coloured washer - roughly 2mm outside diameter, 1mm inside diameter and curved. The second is brass coloured plate about 5mm x 1.5mm with an open ended hole at each end. Does anyone have an idea what these are for?
  4. Thanks Nigel but I am wanting to improve/mod/learn on this one, not just return to working condition. I am going to make my own dial - it will probably be very simple.
  5. Hi eezy, not sure what you mean by the gap between dial and hour wheel? The rodico idea - measuring to see what the gap is is a great idea. I was going to machine down the movement holder until tightening the back up keeps the dial in place and then make a spacer to go behind the movement and finish flush with the holder.
  6. The dial seat is 28.6mm ID and 30.6mm OD if anyone can point me at a suitable black dial face.
  7. The idea was to make a movement holder and dial that are both a light press fit inside the case, if necessary they can be glued together. The back of the holder will be machined so the movement fits in snugly. There will be a small gap between the movement and the back of the case that will need a plastic or foam shim to keep everything tight. I would be relying on the stem and the shim to stop the movement rotating. For belt and braces I could also add dial dots but only if absolutely necessary. I cannot see why this wouldn't work - but you could fill a library with what I don't know about watch making Making the dial will be the hardest part of the project so I want to avoid the complication of adding dial feet if I can. I have not found any suitable ready made dials that I like and even if I do, I suspect the feet are unlikely to be in the right place.
  8. I am not planning on using any dial feet but will machine a movement holder/spacer out of delrin which should hold the movement securely and concentric to the dial.
  9. Hi everyone This is my first real post on this forum and my first ever watch project. I have this Boccia watch dating from about 2000, the movement was starting to fail and the crystal cracked so it has been unused for several years. It had a nice lightweight and slim titanium case, sapphire crystal and a Myota 6m12 movement - now discontinued. My plan is to replace the crystal, fit a new quartz movement (probably a Ronda 703) , replace the face (which I dont like at all) and re-lume or replace the hands. One thing I am not sure about is which hand fitting height to order. To align the stem with the casing hole the watch dial needs to be nominally 0.9mm thick Looking at the Ronda drawing https://www.ronda.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/Products/TA_BA/detail/3316001.pdf confuses me a little and I would appreciate if anyone could confirm if I have got the following right: 1 The dial seat - Common sense says this is where the movement touches the back of the dial, is this correct? Assuming it is correct 2 With a 0.9mm dial and hand fitting height No 3 I would have 0.38mm between the hour hand and the face and the second hand would be 1.09mm above the face? 3 With a 0.9mm dial and hand fitting height No 4 I would have 0.73mm between the hour hand and the face and the second hand would be 1.44mm above the face? 4 I will have a minimum of 1.65mm between the face and the crystal (the seal will add a bit) so I assume either of the above will fit OK? 5 Would No 4 be the best hand fitting height to go for bearing in mind the 0.9mm dial thickness may not be exact? Any advice much appreciated. The case has polished up real nice - but that is the easy bit Thanks Mike
  10. Hi to you all from new member in Northamptonshire UK I have joined your forum to read and learn a bit about watch repairing and modding. I have an old quartz watch that has been in a drawer for a few years, It was getting unreliable when I last was wearing it and then I dropped it and broke the crystal. I am now in the process of repairing it and I hope improving it too. We have a pile of assorted not working watches that I will try and sort out too. I hope you wont mind me asking some basic questions though I will use the search function and try to find the answer first
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