Jump to content

1920s Waltham w/ broken stem split collet


Recommended Posts

Hi experts,

I have a Waltham wristwatch from the 1920s. The movement is a 1907 grade 361, and it's basically functionally OK except for the stem. The little split collet that goes into the case and is supposed to keep the stem in place is broken, so my stem keeps popping out into the set position, or just popping out of the movement and case if I try to wind it. Does anybody know anything at all about sourcing a replacement collet, about putting together some kind of a workaround that allows the watch to function, or maybe anything about fabricating a functional replacement? Thanks a LOT in advance...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you basically talking about the rounded tip/end of the stem ?

Not sure how much luck you'll have finding a replacement but you can get a stem made by someone on a lathe or, hypothetically have the tip laser welded to the stem but I imagine that that might be complicated because the parts are very small but it's doable.

Have you tried eBay and the various watch part online shops ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll post a photo tomorrow (night time here!) when I have time to take it apart, but I'm *pretty* sure that we're talking about different parts here. This is not a part of the stem, it's just a little piece of metal that goes around the stem and holds it in place so it doesn't pop out of the case. It's literally in the case, not in the movement. 

I'm new to watches, but this is a system for holding the stem in place that I haven't seen on any of the few modern watches I've poked around inside. 

I've looked on ebay, but unless I'm searching with the wrong term, all I can find are junk watches that *might* if I'm lucky have the replacement piece. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the little split collet is what allows the stem (on a stem set p0cket watch) to snap in and out.    I don't know of any one making them on  a lathe. it would need to be tempered and designed to work with the stem shape.  I have been lucky enough to find the pair on parts watches.   good luck, let us know how the problem was solved.      vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never seen a press fit one either.

Apparently some of the smaller sleeves are hard to find now, I made a small one for a friend in the U.S. a couple of years ago and it was a pain to get it right. Way easier to make a normal winding stem.

But there are stocks of these things out there, do some digging.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I think this is the part he is talking about. Its the stem adjuster that screws in side the case that the stem fits into.

 

hqdefault.jpg

  yes,  a collet and a depth "adjuster".    it must be spring steel or the collet fingers will break off.    I put an "o-ring" on top of this in an effort to keep water out.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @Malocchio@GuyMontag I have a camera which looks awfully like yours and use it plugged in to an HDMI monitor. Once it works it is fine (not sure about the recordings yet I should be able to access them tonight) but everytime I restart the system there is this weird dance between turning on the camera and the monitor and the monitor not detecting the camera then turning the monitor off and on and the camera the same and so on till it is finely recognized. Have you experienced that and what is the best way to turn on the system (the 2 sheets of manual are laughable and don't help)
    • As requested by Mark: pictures of the pallet warmer I built 😉 A hotplate I once used for phone screen repair and a coin with a 1mm hole drilled in it. 
    • No family heirloom so no pressure.  I have a watch I would like to be able to service which I own the Seiko Brightz SAGN011 with the 4S27 movemnet I talked about in another topic.  It is a pretty complicated watch and the only place which used to agree to service it in Boston is closed.  Right now it is out of commission due to a broken bracelet link (which I couldn't find anywhere short of buying the same watch).  I'd like to be able to service it but I won't touch it until I am pretty confident. Right now buying broken watches on eBay and hoping to fix them is a bit out of my league I am still at hoping not to break perfectly working movements.   I did points 1,2,3 and 5 quite a bit.  Not yet the 4. I'll see when I feel confident enough to work on movements costing several hundred dollars.   I also read a lot of bad press about Chinese movement and I agree I have very little experience but I have to say I like the ST36 a lot and the video I saw don't really show that it is true for instance what you have below.       For instance I keep hearing how Chinese movement come with no lubrication or bad one.  That wasn't the case for the 3 ST36 I looked at. It is true on the other hand that I saw a huge quality difference between the ST36 and either DG2813 or 2650G. I haven't played with the NH35 yet but I know I don't like the Miyota movements though.   That definitely helps and I shall for sure look at the video and maybe buy a few. The looks are not all to my taste but to work on it doesn't really matter and starting with a running watch with a reasonable investment is great.   Disassembly was done during lunch break 30mn almost no incident, the only thing is I forgot to remove the tension from the setting lever jumper before undoing the setting lever screw so the setting lever was ejected from the underside of the movement (but just under the holder and nothing broken). I am climbing this evening so I won't get to cleaning till at least tomorrow but I may get a chance to upload the video
    • Thanks for the extra info. The Omega docs seem a bit inconsistent with some parts! I found a Swiss parts supplier with the used 1010-1580 at a far more reasonable price that the ebay ones; I just hope it's in decent condition when it arrives!  
    • There is visibly a circular plate spring where the bezel fits, that appears to just lift out once the bezel is off? It looks like there are holes or recesses under that, which may contain the supposed screws???  
×
×
  • Create New...