I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
I've an 11 jewel 1879 Waltham pocket watch with very old and pitted jewels, particularly 4th and escape wheel. They've caused a bit of uneven wear on the pivots so I'm getting wavey traces on the timegrapher. I've polished the pivots and this has improved the situation a fair bit, but would really like to replace the old jewels.
Now, as they are held in chatons, is there any way of purchasing replacement jewels complete in the chatons? I had assumed since Waltham made bajillions of watches that spares for the jewels in chatons would be simple to find, but I'm buggered if I can!
Am just I going to have to try and put replacement jewels in the existing chatons?
I'm just a hobbyist, but am a bit of a perfectionist so would like to get the watch running as well as I can. She's a lovely heavy size 18.
Next watch I'm on to is an accutron space view... A bit of a different beast!
Cheers in advance guys.
I hope you are all well.
It has been 12 months or so since I last logged in, and shamefully about the same since I pulled out my box of old watches. I was browsing the 'Bay' as always and really liked the look of this Waltham Traveler. I picked it up for less than £10 and would like to use it as my first restoration project. I have undertaken minor repairs in the past but nothing like this, I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew.
I need to find a key to see if it winds & runs, repair/service it and source the hands and a case, which is uncharted territory for me and I'm not sure how easily they are sized / sourced.
Any help, advice or pointers that you guys may be useful to me will be greatly received
Many thanks in advance
My first post so please forgive any faux pas.
I bought this wonderfully old rugged looking clock at a salvation army today. I have looked all afternoon trying to find out what exactly I bought and sadly I haven't found much info. There seems to be the possibility that it was in some kind of military vehicle, everything I've found says that a watch maker/repair expert and not a clock maker is who would know about the inner workings, and I came across a picture linked to this forum that had a similar looking clock. So here I am hoping that I stumbled upon the minds who will tell me all the things!
Waltham Watch Co. 8 day clock. found the serial #, chart says made in 1929. I wound it and it's keeping time.
Hi everyone. I'm brand new to watch repair, but I'm starting to really get into it as a hobby. I'm a 30something American living in Taiwan. Right now I'm really interested in old Walthams from the 1920s and 1930s, and old Hamiltons from the 40s and 50s. I have a few real-life friends who do repairs for one of the big Swiss companies, so they're mostly to blame for me getting into this. I normally don't join forums, but talking to experienced people seems like the best way for me to solve some essential challenges, and hopefully to learn.
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The barrel diameter size is only Important if you're shoving the spring indirectly. If you're going to use a mainspring winder it's not an issue. Then if the spring is just a little bit longer a little bit shorter it's not an issue. If it's dramatically longer yes you can break it and shorten it. Then you can even make a hole in the end of the spring but it can be a pain to do. I would just go with the spring is really close and see if it works with the end that it has.
Thanks again, Chris!! I read through the manual as you suggested and learned quite a bit (go figure!!). To answer your questions: 1) Yes, my dryer fan runs perfectly. 2) I don't have a way to measure the basket rotational speed, but the spin-off speed seems to be faster than the drying speed .... or about the same. The manual specifically lists L&R Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and L&R #3 Watch Rinsing Solution as the recommended solutions. I'll have to research the difference between the Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and #111 but since you use #111, that's what I'll use, too. It seems I have no worries about the #3 catching fire during drying. How high do you fill your jars? The manual says, "to the middle of the L&R on the jar". When you clean watch parts, do you use the "Watch Basket" (smaller one) or the "Clock Basket" (larger one)? If I'm reading the manual correctly, I should set the rheostat with the Clock Basket installed and the High-Low switch on High. Then, set the adjustable resistor slider (Purple Wire) with the Watch Basket installed and the High-Low switch on Low. Finally, set the drying speed with the other adjustable resistor slider (Orange Wire). I think I'll do all my experimentation and adjustments with isopropyl alcohol. That's a lot cheaper than the L&R solutions. Thanks again for helping and sharing your experience. I really appreciate it!! Woody
The Cousins spring will come with a "tongue end", which, if you have a hook in the barrel that worked with a hole end before will work A-OK with the tongue end. Length wise, there's a lot of leeway with it until you get to really small stuff (try fitting a spring with 20mm extra length in a JLC 852 caliber with a 5mm barrel inner diameter haha). The Cousins spring will work fine. Additionally, the way the fusee works you don't actually use the whole length or "number of turns of wind" that the barrel can produce. It will make about 6 turns of wind, and the fusee will use about 4 to 5 of that.
Thanks. Only 2 options come up: 2.50 x 0.20 x 17 x 580 or 2.50 x 0.20 x 15.5 x 480 The original spring was: 2.50 x 0.20 x 17 x 410 Not sure where to go from here, my instinct is to go for the 15.5 x 480 as the spring is still longer than the original, even though it is for a smaller barrel??