I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
I'm as green as they come and need a scrap movement for practice. I scored this on an eBay auction for $0.99 (+ $4.99 shipping, LOL) First inspection shows it not in terrible condition. The balance and escapement move at least, but it doesn't wind (very stiff) and the keyless works are either rusted fast or broken (the stem does not move in or out). I'll be taking this very slowly, since it's educational more than anything else.
Please note the high quality cardboard case ring.
I'd like to try my hand at converting a vintage pocket into a wristwatch.
For anyone who knows, what size pocket watch should I aim for and what's the best source for an appropriate sized case? Is a 'Hunter' best for this? What's the best solution for a winding stem and if I have to go with a case that's not drilled for the stem, what's the best solution?
In other words, what best practice for this mod?? Any help would be appreciated.
I've an 11 jewel 1879 Waltham pocket watch with very old and pitted jewels, particularly 4th and escape wheel. They've caused a bit of uneven wear on the pivots so I'm getting wavey traces on the timegrapher. I've polished the pivots and this has improved the situation a fair bit, but would really like to replace the old jewels.
Now, as they are held in chatons, is there any way of purchasing replacement jewels complete in the chatons? I had assumed since Waltham made bajillions of watches that spares for the jewels in chatons would be simple to find, but I'm buggered if I can!
Am just I going to have to try and put replacement jewels in the existing chatons?
I'm just a hobbyist, but am a bit of a perfectionist so would like to get the watch running as well as I can. She's a lovely heavy size 18.
Next watch I'm on to is an accutron space view... A bit of a different beast!
Cheers in advance guys.
It's been a while since I've worked on a movement as old as this. A friend asked me to look at whether I could get his great-grandmother's watch working again. When I first saw it, I thought it was an old 1920's ladies wristwatch, though thought it odd that the winding stem is at 12. However, on closer examination, it resembles more of an old pocket watch movement. Now amazingly, the watch is ticking when wound but I cannot pull the stem to set the hands. On removing the dial, I can see the yoke and yoke spring on the opposite side. But would I be right in thinking that it is missing the setting lever? There is a space that looks suspiciously like there could have been a setting lever there once but I could be wrong.
I'd also be interested to hear your opinions on the age of the movement. I'm thinking around 1900.
What's more surprising is that when the case is closed, you don't see the chipped porcelain around the edges, so thick is the bevel. It looks so nice and ornate and when the case is closed. Would love to be able repair but have my doubts.
Any ideas about the keyless works?
Thanks in advance.
No registered users viewing this page.
If it was me I would first just massage the spring at the 07:00 o'clock position. You might be lucky in thats all thats need moving. What I call the terminal curve (Blue) is critical that it has a uniform curve in relation to the curve of the main body of the spring. If not when regulating the spring it will go out of centre.