Jump to content
Mark

Pallet Warmer Project

Recommended Posts

Editing a video on the construction at the moment. 

Need to reset the pallet stones in a vostok which was loaded up with too much shellac. Unfortunately my pallet warmer is missing - searched high and low - I suspect it's in pallet warmer heaven. So I made a new one. Hopefully this will be an interesting video for some. In fact - I made two. Will do a giveaway to a winner for one of them. Details will be announced in my next video which will show how I made these and the video after that will the Vostok restoration where I will demonstrate how they are used.

In the meantime - if anybody wants to build one themselves, I have attached the plans to this post. If you do make one then post pics :)

pallets.jpg

pallet-warmer.jpg

pallet-warmer2.jpg

pallet_warmer_sketch.png

pallet_warmer_sketch2.png

Pallet Warmer Plans.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  Likewise Old H do you remenber Andy Pandy and Teddy , Watch with Mother,   not forgetting the Interlude....

Watch with Mother Monday

Andy Pandy Tuesdays

Rag Tag and Bobtail Wednesday

Bill and Benn Thursday

The Wooden Tops Friday.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
A nice video Mark. What type of lathe are you using?
@oldhippy Sorry for late reply.
It's a mini bench lathe made by a company called Optimum. A relatively new addition to the workshop along with the mill.
761cd7f46b1fd130a335b5ee54b960dc.jpgefd09d341be590b70a66549f5ac6e60a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, TheFixer said:

I have the copper plate so just need some brass.

Any chance of a picture with the wooden holder without the tool itself?

You can see it clearly in the video Mark uploaded, he shows the machining out process but it could be easily done with a chisel or by tacking sides onto a flat piece.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, m1ks said:

You can see it clearly in the video Mark uploaded, he shows the machining out process but it could be easily done with a chisel or by tacking sides onto a flat piece.

Thanks will take a look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/15/2019 at 10:59 PM, oldhippy said:

Thank's Mark for the reply and nice photo. That's a new one on me I'll look that one up. 

Is it the Light Duty Lathe Optimum TU2004V 240v Variable Speed?

Absolutely - thats the one. So far I have had a few issues with it but noting major.

The gib in the compound slide was bent - easy fix but I need maybe add a couple more gib screws to make it more smooth and it came with an extraordinary amount of grit on the lead screws and ways. This is common with chinese lathes I think but didn't expect it with "German quality" - lesson learned :D

I would like to install a thrust bearing too, to minimise  backlash. But the parts I have made so far are quite accurate not bad for a light duty lathe. Not unhappy.

 

13 hours ago, TheFixer said:
I have the copper plate so just need some brass.
Any chance of a picture with the wooden holder without the tool itself?

There you go9fd5114a1d5f9cd0f0957a0133eaa82d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Mark said:

Absolutely - thats the one. So far I have had a few issues with it but noting major.

The gib in the compound slide was bent - easy fix but I need maybe add a couple more gib screws to make it more smooth and it came with an extraordinary amount of grit on the lead screws and ways. This is common with chinese lathes I think but didn't expect it with "German quality" - lesson learned :D

I would like to install a thrust bearing too, to minimise  backlash. But the parts I have made so far are quite accurate not bad for a light duty lathe. Not unhappy.

 

There you go9fd5114a1d5f9cd0f0957a0133eaa82d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

Thank you Mark that is very helpful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Actually one can see a small round notch at 9h, there must be a reason for that?  And assuming it's a front loader, then the crystal must be removed using a lifter (do you have one?) something that may leave some marks on the sides, can you see if there is any? The alternative could be a syringe. 
    • If something can be humanly done, it can be explained in words, with the help of a couple of illustrations maybe. I think that happens because: 1. Is very difficult to work with straight tweezers vertical and very close.  2. The bending tweezers must not be exactly vertical to its center, rather the edge that forms the bend must be. Of course, the two lines do not concide because the tips are tapered. So what I do, and suggest that you try is to use curved or angled tips tweezers to hold, and a straight one to bend. Also, even if commonly used to correct minor distortion, No. 5 tweezers are not ideal for forming dogleg, flattening kinks, not to mention overcoils. The specific types for that have been subject of an extensive topic where Master nickelsilver explained and set the record straight: these are not made anymore.  So, as also suggested by others, we have to make our own by accurately filing a standard pair, something that is not very easy either. Based on the considerations above I think the best shape would be having the tip sides (looking at the front) to be parallel, maybe 1 or 1.2mm wide, while in side view thickness should be reduced, with a slight taper on the nose to help sliding in between the coils. I have not made yet a pair like the above, but intend to do that at the first chance, and will post pictures here and update with my experience. 
    • I was thinking this is a front loader.  There is literally no seem anywhere on the back.  So the crown has to come off and then the movement will come out.   This is a hamilton "Electronic" . From whagt I understand, it is later then the "Electric" . but finding info is hard because google always wants to give me results for "electric"  
    • I can't see the pic from where I am, but I have a Hamilton electric that I have to pull out the stem (there is a couple that disconnects) and from there take off the crystal and the movement pops out. I believe there is probably a lot of information about taking movements out through the front that is around in a more general sense.   Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...