Jump to content

I've got pegwood in my jewel hole....HELP!!!


Recommended Posts

I've excelled myself this time, and broken a piece of pegwood off in a capped jewel, and I don't think they come apart.

Can anyone come up with an idea, or suggest how to split the jewel?

fullsizeoutput_544.jpeg.b2bad84a312dd65c6e81003d031a6ce9.jpegfullsizeoutput_545.jpeg.ede754f1516e14ca131627f6587fb39f.jpeg

Edited by ftwizard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one of these in my toolkit, just wondered if it might suck out the pegwood if a little water is added to the jewel.  Basically you push down the plunger, place the nozzle over the part and press the button to release the plunger and suck-up the fluid (normally molten solder from a joint etc).

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-de-solder-pump-n40ch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would soak the plate in lighter fluid as digginstony suggests until the wood becomes pliable , then use a fine needle or oiler as old hippy mentioned , plus use a blower . OR, put it into an ultra sonic with fluid so it soaks and vibrates out . 

I think the key is patience to let it get soft in some fluid . I think in this case I might try a few short blasts with compressed air if all else failed .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried all your suggestions, apart from the ultrasonic wash, as I don't have one. Nothing worked, so I'm putting it down to experience. The jewel is only for a click pivot in an auto wind mechanism, so it's not too critical.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This type of cap jewel was discussed recently.. I believe the consensus was that this type of cap is non-serviceable.

Look out for an organ-donor is the only realistic option. Once you've got one, experiment with the old one to see how it comes apart..if at all, and share the results here!

All the best!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, anilv said:

This type of cap jewel was discussed recently.. I believe the consensus was that this type of cap is non-serviceable.

Look out for an organ-donor is the only realistic option. Once you've got one, experiment with the old one to see how it comes apart..if at all, and share the results here!

All the best!

Good call. I might just do that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try a electric toothbrush (the vibrating or ultrasonic kind) with a bit of distilled water.  I just used this with a piece of wood toothpick jammed in the case engraving on a silver cameo locket - watch. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
    • I overhauled a ladies Rolex and noticed erratic performance so I stripped in down again and did fault finding. This is what I saw. The lower jewel (the one in the plate) is cracked and the hole is too big. Before discovering this, I stripped down and re-cleaned the main-plate (and parts) by hand with a fine natural fiber brush. I somehow missed the fault the first time and cannot understand how it was still running. Perhaps re-cleaning it dislodged some pieces of the jewel widening the hole? I don't know. Now I need to replace the jewel but don't have a Seitz tool. The Rolex part is 2130-0913 and the top and bottom are the same. The part comes complete in brass setting with KIF elastor spring and cap jewel. Note: I have never replaced a jewel. I do have a good vintage stacking set that I've used quite a bit.  Can I replace using a stacking set? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  
×
×
  • Create New...