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Posted

I usually use finger cots when I'm reassembling a movement and casing it. Fingers shed dead skin and oil, don't want that in my movement after I've gone through all the trouble of cleaning it. 

 

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Posted

I wear a pair of latex gloves for reassembly even tho I don't touch any parts by hand until I fit the dial , hands and 're-case.

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Posted

I use finger cots (left hand) when assembling a watch & sometimes latex gloves when assembling a clock. However I have been getting used to assembling without touching the parts & just manipulating with tweezers.

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Posted

Glove of left hand (I'm right handed), either latex gloves (not powdered!!!) or finger cots if I have any. I mostly try not to touch the parts with my fingers anyways.

Posted

mechanics in general don't wear gloves,  except in nuclear work where often 3 layers are worn AND senitivity is totally lost by then.  in the 60's,  tough skin was the best answer.  but in retirement,  SOFT SKIN.

Posted

I have disagree with you ( in the nicest possible way ) I always wear a pair of vinyl gloves for any dirty work.

Painting, gardening, car repair etc,

You can buy them at a couple of pounds for 100 gloves.

Wear them once then throw away.

No complaints from the wife !!!!

Posted

I ask because of course I've read and heard the recommendation. Up to this point I haven't worn anything. I've worked construction my entire adult life and even then choose not to wear gloves because of feel and nimbleness. This is a different task all together though and worth my consideration.


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    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
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