Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
  On 3/27/2016 at 2:41 PM, jdrichard said:

Strange because they all start with A and 5 numbers not 6??

Expand  

Not really must watch makers had their own code when it came to marking. This way I said only the repairer would know. This is a practice I never ever did. I kept a book with every repair carried out, with the antique clocks I would right up all the work carried out including parts made and hand the list and old parts to the owner.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 3/29/2016 at 7:39 AM, oldhippy said:
Not really must watch makers had their own code when it came to marking. This way I said only the repairer would know. This is a practice I never ever did. I kept a book with every repair carried out, with the antique clocks I would right up all the work carried out including parts made and hand the list and old parts to the owner.

Good insight. Now for the second last question, how do I remove the stem from this watch without disassembling it? Is these a trick.

Posted

You pull the stem as to set the hands, turn the two case screws, take the bezel off and the movement should come out, you might need to give it a light push.

Posted (edited)

If you still want to remove the stem you first have to take the movement out as described by oldhippy.

You should rarely have to remove the stem but if you need to, with the movement out, push the crown back in to extend the amount of square stem showing inside the case. Grip the stem carefully across the square with small pliers then using the fingers of your other hand unscrew the crown from the stem. ( Some watches have a small grub screw through the crown so loosen that )

You will then need a special shaped tool to unscrew the adjuster inside the tube where the crown fits. The stem and adjuster sleeve will come out through the top.

You can then separate the stem and adjuster by pulling them apart in opposite directions with your fingers.

Re-fitting is the exact reversal of the above.

The little adjusting sleeve is to hold the stem within the case and also to adjust the position of the stem in relation to the movement.

 You will see that it has four slots cut in it like the collet in a lathe and it allows the stem to be held in place but still lets the stem revolve for winding and hand reseting.

Be careful with this because it is hardened and will easily break if you try to prize it open. Just use your fingers to separate it from the stem.

The adjusting sleeve is often in pieces when you remove it but it can still be used if there are enough of the four legs in place.

Edited by Alaskamick
Posted
  On 3/29/2016 at 1:56 PM, Alaskamick said:

If you still want to remove the stem you first have to take the movement out as described by oldhippy.

You should rarely have to remove the stem but if you need to, with the movement out, push the crown back in to extend the amount of square stem showing inside the case. Grip the stem carefully across the square with small pliers then using the fingers of your other hand unscrew the crown from the stem. ( Some watches have a small grub screw through the crown so loosen that )

You will then need a special shaped tool to unscrew the adjuster inside the tube where the crown fits. The stem and adjuster sleeve will come out through the top.

You can then separate the stem and adjuster by pulling them apart in opposite directions with your fingers.

Re-fitting is the exact reversal of the above.

The little adjusting sleeve is to hold the stem within the case and also to adjust the position of the stem in relation to the movement.

 You will see that it has four slots cut in it like the collet in a lathe and it allows the stem to be held in place but still lets the stem revolve for winding and hand reseting.

Be careful with this because it is hardened and will easily break if you try to prize it open. Just use your fingers to separate it from the stem.

The adjusting sleeve is often in pieces when you remove it but it can still be used if there are enough of the four legs in place.

Expand  

That's a hard way of going about it. If you don't get the adjuster right you can have all kinds of problems in getting the depth right for winding and setting the hands. You need the proper tool to remove the adjuster. This should only be undertaken as a last resort.

Posted
  On 3/29/2016 at 4:53 PM, Alaskamick said:

old hippy, surely thats the correct way to remove a stem.

What would you do?

Expand  

I'm not saying its not correct, it is fiddly. The pocket watch has a two piece stem. The person wants to remove the movement from its case which I have explained in one of my previous posts. You would only need to go through the fiddly task if say the sleeve of the adjuster had broken or the part stem in the case had broken. If all is well there is no need to remove it. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I think when you get the movement out you will be able to see whether the stem is tight or the keyless work within the movement is tight. When you get to that stage you will know where to move to next.

Usually the crown and stem in a Waltham case are quite sloppy.

Posted

It would be better if you start another thread that describes these watches JD as the title  the tread does not reflect the new content.  I say this because anyone looking for so thing in particular sully checks the thread titles first.  This title specifically says Waltham Traveller 16S.

Geo!

Posted
  On 3/30/2016 at 7:25 AM, Geo said:
It would be better if you start another thread that describes these watches JD as the title  the tread does not reflect the new content.  I say this because anyone looking for so thing in particular sully checks the thread titles first.  This title specifically says Waltham Traveller 16S.

Geo!

Sorry and will do

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi jdrichard,

It looks like the barrel has been rubbing on the mainplate, probably the barrel holes have worn.

 

Anil

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I contacted these guys in the UK and they can either supply a clip on mic to go with their software, or they’ll modify an existing microphone you send them, or they can supply a refurbished and modified microphone.   Does any know where to find this software?  I found various old threads, with links that don’t work anymore, but no website for the product. 
    • The 268 mechanism cover has that gear that’s friction fit to a post and like a cannon pinion it can become loose, creating too much slack and allowing for improper meshing. Instead of the broken setting wheel I often see broken teeth on the gear underneath. This is from the last 3135 I serviced… …it’s really kind of a poorly designed part…and why is it all one part? 🧐 …and on this one I never found the missing tooth. Did the previous service provider just replace this broken part?
    • I had it in a little jar in a double bath at 60ºC in a more or less super saturated solution - some crystals came back out of solution as it cooled. Heat was really the trick - When I started at room temperature I could see a bubble form on top of the old stem and just sit there but when heated there was a constant stream of bubbles  
    • Sorry to bring this one up again: You mention you got new springs, dare I ask where? I haven't been able to find any but those for the manual version. I cleaned and wound the mainsprings in my 2427 using a modified M6 washer and the crank from a winder, but they were a bit coned, have a bit of a kink in the spring where it meets the end of the bridle and the resultant amplitude is quite poor. 250, maybe a bit higher, on a full wind. Confirmed that this is how the yoke should look when taking apart a 2428 for parts. I saw a post that you've left the forum. I hope that's not the case. You've helped me more than once and it was very much appreciated.
    • I spent a few hours with this 3135 Rolex yesterday, and as we can all see, the reason the date and time can't be set is obvious. Had I known this—I was expecting a dislocated yoke—I would have refrained from running it, as we have no idea where those broken-off teeth are located inside the movement. It could very well explain the funny timing machine readings. Hopefully, the damage is limited to the first (there are two) setting wheel, but we shall see as the disassembly continues. It's a good sign that the sliding pinion teeth seem to be intact. It also raises the question of how something like this can happen. Perhaps too little or the wrong type of grease in the cannon pinion, and when it became difficult to set the time, the crown was turned with force and too quickly. That reminds me of another movement (years ago) where the cannon pinion was way too tight, and I still tried to set time, which broke off the teeth on the minute wheel. However, it was a scrap Vostok, so no real harm done.
×
×
  • Create New...