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Copying A Keyless Works Cover

mwilkes

By mwilkes
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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mwilkes WRT Addict

mwilkes

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I need to make a keyless work cover/setting lever detent for an ancient Rolex. I have the original from another watch. What's the best way to copy it? I've considered gluing the original to some steel stock and cutting around it, but I risk damaging the original if I do that....suggestions on a postcard please!

(I know I could buy one, but that wouldn't be character-building)

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JimInOz WRT Addict

JimInOz

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I would mark up the surface of the blank with engineer's blue, clamp the two together and mark around the old one with a fine scriber.

S

 

Ditto, but if you don't have Prussian Blue (either marking solution or engineer's blue) you can use a permanent felt pen or Xylelne marker.

Make sure your scriber or needle is nice and sharp to get a good outline.

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JimInOz WRT Addict

JimInOz

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PS: marking or layout blue is almost the same as engineer's blue but for the carrier solution. The marker has a fast drying solution while the engineer uses an oil based carrier and will not dry and will transfer to mating surfaces.

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StuartBaker104 Distinguished Member

StuartBaker104

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I'm with you on this Stuart, but I think you meant to say marking blue not engineers blue, they're different things. Engineers blue is for checking out high and low spots on surfaces.

Yes Geo... Absolutely right, lazily non-specific of me - I was taught to make marking blue by mixing engineer's blue with meths.

I've tried using xylene markers and they don't have quite the same effect imho, but almost as good

S

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anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

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Whatever you use to mark the outline, make the holes and the index (the bumps that give the click) first.

Only then work on the outline. Otherwise you may find you have perfectly shaped piece but unusable due to the holes not being in the right places.

HTH

Anil

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Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

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Anyone know where to source metal for keyless work and pivots/staffs. I'm in Australia so any online store would help.

Thank you!

Here you are.

Pivot steel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-Assorted-Tempered-Blue-Steel-Wire-Pivots-clock-repair-pivot-pinions-staffs-/191432908456?hash=item2c924a5ea8:g:D-gAAOSwg3FUfJie

Gauge plate. They supply it in various thicknesses.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-Ground-Flat-Stock-01-Tool-Steel-Gauge-Plate-Various-Widths-lengths-/281897555767?var=&hash=item41a2675737:m:mz4lMQGl3D1rzeunqJ9gsKw

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mwilkes WRT Addict

mwilkes

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@anil yep - I ended up drilling holes first, then pinning the piece I needed to copy on to the blank using wire of the correct thickness for the holes. Every other way was prone to slippage - even superglue!

Gluing a paper template wasn't a go-er - the pieces were too small

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anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

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For a source of flat steel, I've seen hacksaw blades being used to good effect...used ones are usually plentiful around a shop.

 

I've been tempted to try this out .. the added thickness of a sawblade is an asset as you can get the shape correct and thin it down as the final step. Better than trying to shape a thin plate.

 

Anil

Edited by anilv
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Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

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I've often wondered if old clock main springs could be a suitable source of material, suitably annealed for working and then hardened and tempered before finishing.

This works Marc, make sure it's an old fashioned blue one though.

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stroppy WRT Addict

stroppy

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Wow!  How did you the steel that fine?

 

As regards the engineering blue.  I remember in metalcraft class (back in the stone age when I was a kid) the teacher used good old carbon paper or a stamp ink pad to mark parts for copying.

Edited by stroppy
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