Jump to content

Introduction


Recommended Posts

Hello all.

Now approaching my mid 30's I've had a sudden love for knitted jumpers and trying to spend my time off work doing something positive. I have decided on giving watch tinkering ago. I am afraid I am a fan of Armani watches and I now own 2 that are not ticking and another that works but has a broken crystal. I have gone through the past threads and there is some great information regarding Armani's and how to get started. They seem to be a pedantic time piece, but I'm hoping any snags that might happen have hopefully already been explained and solved in past conversations . But if I get swamped I'd be very appreciative of any advice anyone could spare me. Many thanks! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

Did you order Chinese tools, because if you did you are not the only one that is sent total crap. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/29/2024 at 5:07 PM, oldhippy said:

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

Did you order Chinese tools, because if you did you are not the only one that is sent total crap. 

I am afraid so. They sent out another set and let me keep the fork, which was very kind of them. But unsurprisingly the pry tools are far too thick to be used on watches without damaging them. I would be better of using the fork tbh. Oh well lesson learnt. 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They got me again lads! Temu's finest. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice and I'll just complain about it on a forum. I'm thinking good tools ain't cheap and cheap tools ain't good hah!

PXL_20240411_145257433.jpg

PXL_20240411_145246830.jpg

PXL_20240411_145237561.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Send the bloody things back. These are not expensive but they will get you started.

 https://www.hswalsh.com/jewellery-tools-equipment/jewellers-bench-tools/jewellers-watchmakers-pliers/economy

Cheers Hipps! I've ordered myself a couple of long and short nosed plyers. I'll leave Temu for the Mrs birthday presents 😉

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
×
×
  • Create New...