Jump to content

Wyler pocket watch / identifying movement


Recommended Posts

 Although movements put in pocket watches aren't in general small, diameter of the movement helps searching the right page for data.🧐  JohnR usually does that in a jiff.

Will you be kind enough to tell the diameter. 😩

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The size is 36mm or 1.42 inches. That seems to be equal to 16 lines, but what is the exact name of that caliber? I will have to find an escape wheel for that movement, but I can't find any reference to a Wyler 16.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was looking earlier on, I did find a "Wyler 16" movement, but it is very different to yours. In the article it said that one was the only fully in-house Wyler movement?

That implies yours is based on another makers movement, with Wylers customisation, but I cannot find any with the same keyless details so far.. That yoke is strange and distinctive!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, rjenkinsgb said:

When I was looking earlier on, I did find a "Wyler 16" movement, but it is very different to yours. In the article it said that one was the only fully in-house Wyler movement?

That implies yours is based on another makers movement, with Wylers customisation, but I cannot find any with the same keyless details so far.. That yoke is strange and distinctive!

You're right : it seems that Wyler has used ETA and AS movements and modified them. I will continue searching which one could be mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, BlueHarp said:

The size is 36mm or 1.42 inches. That seems to be equal to 16 lines, but what is the exact name of that caliber? I will have to find an escape wheel for that movement, but I can't find any reference to a Wyler 16.

if you scroll down the page far enough you'll see a reference to Wyler 17. Because of the age it's too early for the bestfit book and even another book I looked at the 50s didn't have it listed.

https://uhrforum.de/threads/wyler-incassable-ca-1935-aussen-bauhaus-stilikone-innen-technisch-eigenwillig.383435/

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's looks exactly like my movement! The link you mentionned is in german, but I understand that nobody is sure about the fact that Wyler created that calibre. It might be another manufacturer's movement which has been modified. So finding the right escape wheel will be miraculous.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, BlueHarp said:

It might be another manufacturer's movement which has been modified

As with my ETA 2783 which is modified with a Wyler balance and there are plenty of parts for the ETA 2783 available. Now it may be a matter of finding who made the movement?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you. Unfortunately, I'm totally unable to do that. As a last resort, I've posted on the section "Watch Parts, Sourcing Parts, Movements, Materials and Lubrication Products" with as many photos as possible.

Wait and see ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This 16 lin. is the only movement showing up in the books - a good evidence it is a genuine Wyler, not relabelled.

The name? „Wyler 16 lin.“ 😀

16 minutes ago, BlueHarp said:

Thank you. Unfortunately, I'm totally unable to do that.

There are certain people who can do it for you …

Frank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, BlueHarp said:

It might be another manufacturer's movement which has been modified.

one of the interesting problems and watch repair is who made your watch? It's why books like bestfit exist. Companies purchase basically oem movements and have their name put on them case them up and sell them as their own and they been doing this for a very long time. bestfit allow you to hopefully cross reference all of the various watches for parts. Plus companies like bestfit will sell the parts with their own part numbers and tell you which watches they'll fit.

For instance here's an example of a company Rolex they purchase their movements up until 2004 where they finally purchase the company that made their movements.

https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/resources/aegler-became-rolex-movement-maker.html

so yes you're movement was probably manufactured by another company that very likely we may never know who they are.

7 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

Actually this is a matter of repivoting. This is the easiest, the fastest and may be the only way to make the watch work again. Well, the other way is making new pinion, but it is much harder.

then we have the unfortunate reality of working on vintage watches even if we somehow can identify the watch where exactly would you purchase the part from? One of the biggest problems with watch repairs getting spare parts for even newer watches anything vintage is going to be extremely problematic. Anything that's not easy to identify becomes problematic. The reason for this is if you can't identify the watch somebody on eBay selling parts for watch they scrapped will have a hard time describing whatever it is they're trying to sell

this means the only way you can do vintage watches you have to have enough tools to do things like re-pivoting.

then this problem was recognized a long time ago when this kind of thing was more common in other words no reference books no spare parts they were generic things like pinion wire. this is just pieces of long pinions with no pivots because you get to do the final steps of manufacturing and attach it to your wheel.

then because you lack the manufacturing capabilities the only other solution is to set up an active search on eBay for that type of pocket watch. Then your end up with either a complete watch or maybe if you're lucky that might be somebody selling the parts or broken watch you never know what will show up on eBay sooner or later.

Edited by JohnR725
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...