Jump to content

Another First strip down clean and rebuild Noobie


Recommended Posts

29 minutes ago, Tiny said:

Has anyone got a good automatic watch I could buy to get me on my way or even just the movement. 

Why it has to be an automatic? Just because that's what everyone wants, to service and then wear it? What we're trying to convey here is that watchmaking isn't easy, learning takes patience, application and some money, and it must be separated, at the beginning, from working on watches that you are proud to own, heirlooms, valuable pieces, ladies watches, Chinese watches, etc. Seems a too long list? Please have a read to the topic I had linked above.

I will also try another way. Please take a no value quartz watch, even broken. Take it fully apart dow to the smallest screw and bit, then put it back together, the best way you can. Then let us know if you found that easy, or pleasant, and what you think the experiment has taught you about having a normal stepped up approach to working on watch movements.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/3/2022 at 7:36 PM, Tiny said:

the photo's a very low quality I have taken some more but I'm unable to add them in a post but rather add as a attachment at the end of the post.

Just noticed this. Please read the first post of the topic below. Note, the plus sign in the thumbnail may be 'Insert' instead.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/6/2022 at 8:14 PM, Tiny said:

So I'm ashamed to ask Has anyone got a good automatic watch I could buy to get me on my way or even just the movement. I do have the fossil with TY2724 but it's a watch I would like to repair and use/sell on 

If this sort of post is not allowed please delete

 

 

 

Are you in the UK? I could probably post you something. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's just the opinions of Timex haters. Timexes are built differently but are most definitely repairable. 

There are screws under the rotor to remove the auto mechanism. You'll need to rotate the rotor and access them through the two holes in the rotor.

Timexes are very unconventional. For someone trained on Swiss movements, they will find them really frustrating as they will tax their patience and insult their intelligence. 

Timexes will look terrible on a timegrapher but will keep reasonably good time.

But I would advise you to start on something more conventional first. There are plenty of affordable pre-owned watches on eBay. I would even recommend brands like Seiko as their parts are easily available. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hello again all need advice.

So I'm getting ready to service my ETA 2824 Movement. But using the square movement holder I find it easy to tip over and also if not placed in the right place can damage the movement so I want a holder that is better and more stable I was just wondering if this holder is betterHa595b0f32f704b1481d3890797116cedO.thumb.jpg.df7743b360762351d86a66fc11e68144.jpg 

For a noobie to work on as it's quite a small movement. I am waiting for new parts to arrive from ebay (watch date wheel) but I don't know if there is any other damage yet as if not opened it up yet.

 

this is my current holder.

997_1077.jpg.d6299f88b4fb5f8a2da734f30c41d101.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I've only ever used the Bergeon 4040 for all my movements. It will easily hold a 2824 securely and without damage. Is you movement holder smaller ?

But, as @watchweasol points out, £3.75 for a Horotec is good value.

image.png.410b14d7e82aa2002a9c0945861dce92.png

Mine is a ebay knock off and is NOT double sided so I have gone with the green one suggested and small update date wheel has arrived whoop 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tiny said:

Mine is a ebay knock off and is NOT double sided so I have gone with the green one suggested and small update date wheel has arrived whoop 

It's worth investing in the Bergeon holder - that, screwdrivers and tweezers are the three things worth spending more money on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20220407_230750.thumb.jpg.2cd253d82df68064efee4b2fa41c0736.jpg

Even cheap movement holders can be improved. This is a cheap movement holder which I modified by adding a spring washer and filing the jaws deeper.

The spring washer maintains pressure even when there is slight movement of the plate, reducing incidents of pop outs.

The deeper jaws grip the plate better.

The only thing I haven't solved is how to grip plates with cutouts where the jaws are located.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Tiny said:

I was just wondering if this holder is better 

Yes, it is. No matter who makes it, an universal holder can't grab firmly, becuase the contact surface is small and one can't and shouldn't tighten much.

That being said, when a mov.t slips out of the holder the most to blame is the operator, pushing on a side without balancing with pegwood on the other, or general clumsiness. You can do well with a plastic cap, or poorly with an expensive dedicated holder. As with any tools, it depends on how you use it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, mikepilk said:

I've only ever used the Bergeon 4040 for all my movements. It will easily hold a 2824 securely and without damage. Is you movement holder smaller

to clarify something attaching a PDF. The problem with the 4040 style of movement holder at least as far as photographs go it looks almost identical to the 4039 movement holder at least casually.  if you look in the PDF there are actually specifically different sizes. The other reason for the PDF is other movement holders?

in the PDF there's something called a reversible movement holder with knob . Also found at the link below and I have a picture attached you can see what it looks like. notice the holders are designed for specific sizes only. The reversible aspect is the holder is designed to hold one side or the other side of the movement you're working on.  then the reason for the knob is really more of a push button push it in it opens up the holder can drop your movement in and that it holds a really secure.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/by-size-bergeon-5914

Movmaet holder.JPG

7103 A B C D movement holder types.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm guessing, but this commercial demag machine maybe produces random magnetic fields to re-randomise  the iron particles. So heres one for you, synthetic rubies are coloured predominantly with chromium oxide . But natural rubies and old synthetic watch rubies were also coloured with iron oxide in higher percentages than chromium oxide. Which gave them a degree of.................🤔
    • I've never had a hairspring distort on me by passing the movement or just the balance in a plastic pot over this demagnetiser. Have you seen how fast a cleaning machine spins to spin-off fluid and that does no harm to a hairspring. I was a little concerned when I first used it, thinking it might be too strong, but I was wrong. It is strong, but it does no damage. I pass the part over the demagnetiser and keep going for about an arms length, so about a metre, to properly demag the part.
    • I don't think you would be able to find spare parts. Your best bet would be to get a new movement from eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256508500506?itmmeta=01HY3M863PSA61GK7B859QCWTE&hash=item3bb9191a1a:g:ubgAAOSwrJJgPP-s&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4DxWhpiQiz2ZjKpm3PS%2FHPh4IafsSzMWEobc2q4qQWgPGMZ8kCR8y2PRsm7GE31FjeSDYSWcEyGlrpZEdQyyzOSgsgsaPjbP7dYmK8r49Nh%2BEtSqDDIZ8Tbp3vvX035fFXgcjc1GEH8l%2FOWJ9aTeWNGzeBgUwqyhJ3ZSXji50TQr6rd38Sqwaqsj2oc51UVKqqIKySKTfxVB7X09EXcJsmeYc5GCdVODNkb02q2RsxfSIzpgl9dFCmW1Ih%2BPg2j2NziSELg5AfaHl%2FPU2Zn9fNnoVN1Z1NUAREyh2BCubcWC|tkp%3ABk9SR_bhoPTwYw
    • Here's a thought. Try unscrewing the bezel and the crystal. If you have one of those sticky balls for undoing casebacks, I would give that a try.
    • Last week I noticed my Eco-drive's second hand was stopped at 12 o'clock. I left it in the sun for a few days and no change, so I figured it was time to replace the rechargeable battery. I've had this guy for at least 15 years. Replaced the battery and the seconds hand moved to about 5 o'clock and stopped there. I let it sit for a day in the sun, no change. I took the battery out and tested it, and it's at 1.4v. The old one was at 1.0v. I'd like to test if it's charging. I've been looking around for diagnostic info, but only been able to find the owner's manual. Anyone have a reference for it?
×
×
  • Create New...