Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Cousins sell an antistatic bench mat with the label A*F Switzerland. It consists of two layers the upper green and lower white. Between the two is a space that in the sample that I purchased contained some air. If it was made in Switzerland there would be less of a problem, but it was probably made at sea level, perhaps the South China Sea? At our altitude of 720 m it inflated like a flat balloon. The solution was simple, just a hole in the lower white skin. Anyone tempted to buy this 'Swiss' version and living at high altitude, for example Denver, should note this fix. Or try the cheaper Cousins model.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I've struggled with this one, the cousins self adhesive ones are hit and miss, sometimes they're okay, but I've effectively had to replace one as soon as it arrived once, the bergeon self adhesive ones are probably one of the the best, but I just can't justify spending that much on a plastic mat. (I mean it really is insanity) The AF Swiss ones, you can't get these as self adhesive, so these have a padding underneath that grips the work bench, but they are a nightmare because they're made poorly (believe it or not) because it's quite literally impossible to get them to sit flat. 

 

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can always go really cheap, a sheet of A3 or A4 paper and replace it every job. The small raised table that sits on top of my workbench was designed to take a sheet of A4 and has worked well for years. White works fine. The only reason I have Bergeon mat fitted on it just now is that I was given it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can always go really cheap, a sheet of A3 or A4 paper and replace it every job. The small raised table that sits on top of my workbench was designed to take a sheet of A4 and has worked well for years. White works fine. The only reason I have Bergeon mat fitted on it just now is that I was given it.

 

Same here. Sheet of paper at first, light green Bergeon mat now.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

I used to yearn for a black bench mat with side walls but no one makes those anymore. I have been using a cheap mat  but it is too hard and things that bounce and hide do a great job on this mat. I was thinking about the Bergeon 7808 in classic green but now I see so many variations including ridged mats. I don't want an adhesive back since I move from my real bench to the computer bench quite often.

Recommendations?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently picked up two of these;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011R32JKM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_H2XUwb3HPC3SH

They are sold as a hi temp silicone baking mat but work quite well as a bench mat. Parts are easy to see and don't roll or bounce away easily. They are available in various sizes and colors for reasonable money. Seem to wipe clean without much trouble, and can be rolled up for storage when not in use. I am very happy with how it has worked for me, but maybe I just don't know any better since I never had a purpose-made bench mat for watch repair.

d506400ac95a4c4613f62df3d4514817.jpg

Edited by steve855
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

picked up two of these...

I suppose you can always use double sided tape to affix it to the bench/table if it is not staying properly in place...the price can't be beat if it performs well. The different versions from Horotec, Bergeon and Chinese range between US$12 and US$45, the cheaper are either non anti skip or peel the back for permanent (glue) attachment...color will also make the price vary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Fernando, read carefully what @eccentric59 wrote, it is the key to You problem. Lubricate the cannon pinion. Take care to understand what is it's function. When You set time, the train doesn't move, but only the cannon pinion moves. Put hte lever back in it's place, it has nothing to do with time setting
    • Hi fernando. Let us know how you get on.
    • OK, in You case You will assemble the movement with the line attached to the barrel and fusee and will¬† wind the line¬† entirely on the barrel after that. It is important when replacing the line to know the correct lenght of the line. The rule is that when line wound on the fudsee entirely, about 1/4 turn still to remain on the barrel. Yes, no tension. The ratchet is not placed yet, the spring in the barrel is complitelly unwound. At the end of the step the fusee is empty and the line is attached to it and strained perpendiculary to it, not on tangent. The escape wheel. Use whatever that will not damage anything. Yes, this is typing mistake, sorry. The word 'pendulum' here is not correct, You should use 'anchor' and yes, it is removed from the movement at this point, according my instruction 1 (Ihave used the word 'lever' there): ¬† Ok, let sey the barrel arbour makes 6 full turns when winding the spring in the barrel from unwound to fully wound state of the spring. Let sey that the barrel makes 4.5 full turns when winding the clock from fully unwound (the line is on the barrel) to fully wound (the line is on the fusee) state. This means that You should not wind the spring in the barlel when adjusting the initial tension to more than 1.5 turns of the arbour of the barrel.¬† If You make 2 full turns, then when winding the clock, the barrel will be able to turn to only 4 turns, so the limiting device will not limit the rotation of the fusee arbour and You will be able to force the line much more than when the limiting device acts, also the power reserve will be less. Hope this is clear now... Yes, but again - not the pendulum, but the anchour. ¬† About the loosing time... In this kind of escapement, the frequency pritty much depends on the torque. The higher torque - the highrer frequency. This is because this escapement forces the pendulum to oscillate significantly faster than it's own resonant fequency. The frequency depends on the 'depth' of the escapement too - the deeper escapement is, the lower the frequency, and the higher amplitude of pendulum oscillations. The heavier the pendulum is, the harder to the movement (the escapement torque) to force the pendulum to oscillate faster than it's own frequency. And in the end, the own pendulum frequency depends only on the pendulum lenght and a little on the suspension spring 'strenght' This are all the relations between all the factors. You can try to use the old spring (if it is not broken) and see if the clock will work faster with it. Yes, the old springs of fusee clocks sometimes give bigger torque than modern ones, no matter if they seem to be 'set' You can shorten the pendulum to achieve correct frequency. If the torque is reduced, but enough for the movement to work reliably,¬† then reduced torque will only lead to lessen the wear. The torque in fusee movements is more or less constant all the time, this is the function of the fusee. You can use the Clock Tuner¬† free app for android to adjust faster the clock rate. You will need to know the BPH of the movement, so count the teeth of the wheels and pinions and calculate the BPH
    • Hi! My bad. I meant to say that when the pallet fork is installed I cant move the wheels "using the crown in the setting position" Really in truly my number 3 was redundant and badly written (trying to explain myself went all wrong). I dismantling partially the watch (calendar, remontoir, Balance and Pallet fork).¬†I think I would need to go that way...¬† Thanks for your comments... ¬† ¬†
    • this is what happens if you don't fully do all of your research. I found the safe answer I found your exact caliber we got a mainspring number we got a price at a decent price for the original spring verified that the spring number at least on bestfit agrees with what we have so it was safe yes I did look in the GR catalog I had seen that 200 watch has a spring similar to what you perceive it should be. But to be honest I never looked at the 200 watch to see what its mainspring was. then the other amusement I went back to the bestfit online because if the 200 have the same spring I were to see that when I snipped out the image up above. Turns out they don't even show a 200 listing at all. ¬†
×
×
  • Create New...