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cdjswiss last won the day on January 25 2016

cdjswiss had the most liked content!

About cdjswiss

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 05/04/1937

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    A retired CERN experimental physicist with experience in micro-mechanics, so amateur watchmaking is a good choice to keep the mind and fingers active.

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  1. Hi!

    I have seen Your 50 USD pivot drill in the forum. I want to make one as well. Can You please send me detailed pictures of the tool? How did you shaped the female center on the drill side? Have You made it in different hole sizes? WHat is the thickness of the tool base? My guess is ~1cm. And what diameter has the other center rod?

    Tnak You! 

  2. Correction : in my previous post please read overcoil tweezers instead of overcoil pliers. I should also have pointed out that because of the taper, the round nosed pliers should be used gently on one side and then the other of the loop that is being closed. Another, perhaps better, suggestion is to make an overcoil-type pair of tweezers of large size, depending on the size of the mainspring barrel arbor, from a stout pair of brass tweezers. I have dug out this example that I used a couple of times before acquiring the pliers. The shaping was done with a couple of needle files; one round for the concave side and a flat one for the opposite side.
  3. And here's my halfpenny worth: I would not use my precious overcoil pliers on mainsprings, even if I had a large enough size.. This is what I use: inexpensive and does the job perfectly.
  4. Geo and I vie with one another as to the way to polish acrylics. Both produce the fine end result, but I claim that my use of Micromesh enables me to quickly remove deep scratches then I go through the finer grades (10 seconds each grade) to produce the final high gloss with the 1200 grit. Ones source: eBay # 161727693512. If there is no discoloration all Hesacryl crystals can be restored to NOS condition.
  5. After struggling with cerium oxide slurries that fly around all over the shop when spun on a Dremel mop, I was encouraged by other members to use diamond pastes, now very cheap, oil based and faster than cerium oxide. Here is one source: eBay # 301295006953
  6. On some dials buds can cause damage (see previous post by wls1971). A very soft artists brush is the best way to apply a little wiping action. This would be the only addition to my suggestion to rinse in very dilute calcium remover. But try first with distilled water and a soft brush: Windsor and Newton water colour brush size 4 or 5 http://www.winsornewton.com/row/shop/brushes/water-colour/professional-water-colour-squirrel-brushes/pure-squirel-pointed-wash-brush-pure-squirrel-pointed-wash-brushes-size-0-brush-5250300 or equivalent.
  7. Follow George's instructions, but use distilled water. Your stains are probably calcium deposit from your tap water. A very dilute solution of the liquid sold to remove calcium buildup in kettles followed by rinse in distilled water would be my best bet. No buds, just a soak in weak de-calc and then a rinse in distilled water (sold here in CH for the use in steam irons).
  8. His only feedback was from a seller who offers this dream watch eBay # 291658801097. Maybe the Omegas were from the same source?
  9. Thanks for bringing this post to life again with this link to Unitednuclear fluorescent paints. These are really no different than the others such as Luminova or the ones sold by Ranfft. Sorry George to be so late with a reply. The only radioactivity in everything that has been mentioned in this post is the very old residual radium paint on the dial and hands of vintage watches. The radium is still active but not the fluorescent material that was destroyed long ago by the radiation.. If a thin layer of paint such as Luminova is applied over the old dial numbers or hands then it will glow because of the radium underneath, and this glow will be permanent lasting longer than the short-lived glow from exposure to light or ultra-violet rays (sunshine). This short-lived glow is phosphorescence caused by light, whereas the radium induced glow is usually called fluorescence. In Tritium fluorescent watches (marked with a T on the dial) the radioactivity is from the Tritium gas that is contained together with the fluorescent material in glass micro-spheres. The radioactivity emitted by Tritium is low energy (penetrating power) and so it does not pass through the glass. If the glass spheres are ground down by accident the Tritium gas would just fly away presenting no hazard.
  10. Yes the glass fibre brushes need to be used with care. I have a no-name brush that sheds very little and would not know how to replace it. Brass brushes are probably better for resistant muck and then the microfibre mops for light cleaning. These are remarkably good for removing surface grime and can be rinsed in detergent to prolong their life. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/microfibre-head-cleaning-swabs Do not use brass brushes on gold-plated bridges and plates. Here the microfibre swab is essential. Regarding the use of water in the US bath. My baths both have stainless steel tanks and plastic baskets, so no rust. The watch parts are in glass jars with the appropriate cleaning solution. Rinse is always distilled water, compressed air blower, and then fast warm air drying - never any rust.
  11. Thanks Geo, Here is what I wrote: 'I use the small jam jars that some hotels provide and put one or more into the bath as needed.' I usually arrange it so that the water comes up to the bottom of the jar caps. Personally, with a prior heavy de-grease using an ammonia based solution and, if needed, some work with a fine glass fibre brush, I find that this method cleans as well as the more cumbersome classic cleaning machines.
  12. Another way is to use just water in the cleaner tank and to place the watch parts in a small glass jar (some say that plastic is less transparent to ultrasonic waves). Then in the jar you can use ultrasonic cleaner fluid, lighter fluid, One Dip solution from Bergeon, dry cleaning fluid or even denture cleaner solution. These small amounts of fluid can be changed for every session, except the expensive One Dip that is best retained for cleaning balance items. I use the small jam jars that some hotels provide and put one or more into the bath as needed. There is the advantage that any small screws that have been left in the item to be cleaned, for example the dial screws in a main plate, are not lost since the ultrasonic will invariably throw out the screws. Incidentally, this can sometimes be the best way of removing screws with damaged heads or even broken-off pivots left in staking punches. Just rambling on.....
  13. The back does indeed just snap off as does the font bezel. The movement is front loaded with two half-head screws to hold it in place. This arrangement makes it less dirt proof than the more conventional Harwood. I have just done a complete service and it is now keeping time to better than one minute per day. The silver dial with gold numbers is original and has just had a light brush over to remove a little dirt. Harwoods have a reputation of not running for more than 12 hours, but this is nonsense. The power reserve depends on the Schild movement and is well over 24 h. A mal-adjusted automatic winding system probably accounts for poor performance. But this one I have worn 16 hours per day and taken it off for the 8 hours overnight and it has not stopped since I began to wear it on the 1st January. The Spanish patent number on the winding bridge is a mystery - some have attributed it to the back-setting feature, but it cannot now be found in any Spanish official record. It is thought that perhaps, although filed, it was never granted. The novel slipping clutch screw adjustment permits easy and stable over-wind protection. I wonder if this was a Blancpain add-on?
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