L&R Cleaning Machines

[SonnyBurnett]

On 11/29/2021 at 1:31 PM, LittleWatchShop said:

If you proceed with that rheostat, be sure to report back to the forum on your progress!!

Part came today.  If I get some time at work tomorrow I'll start taking it apart and try to take some pictures as I go.  The new part seems a tad larger, is all ceramic and very robust. 

[LittleWatchShop]

1 minute ago, SonnyBurnett said:

Part came today.  If I get some time at work tomorrow I'll start taking it apart and try to take some pictures as I go.  The new part seems a tad larger, is all ceramic and very robust. 

Excited!!

[SonnyBurnett]

[LittleWatchShop]

I love it!!

[SonnyBurnett]

New with the old.  The new one has threads that are shorter on the shaft to mount it to the frame so I had to bend the prongs up to keep them away from the light bulb base and slightly offset it from its original position.  The original prongs were bent upwards too so no worry I guess.

Edited December 16, 2021 by SonnyBurnett

[SonnyBurnett]

Well I haven't soldered in a number of years and it shows.  It leaves much to be desired. Might try to clean it up a bit tomorrow.  The switch splice I soldered then used heat shrink and then put a wrap of 3M electrical tape.  Not needed, but never hurts.

 

Edited December 16, 2021 by SonnyBurnett

[SonnyBurnett]

This is with a temporary cord wire nutted to it for the test.  It's on youtube.  hope the link is okay to post.  Takes under a 1/4 turn then the motor starts to turn.  Everything functions, forward, reverse, the light and the heater element.

 

 

[LittleWatchShop]

Nice.  You need to put a little more heat to those solder joints and get the solder flowing.  But...you are on your way...get cleaning!

Edited December 16, 2021 by LittleWatchShop

[SonnyBurnett]

18 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Nice.  You need to put a little more heat to those solder joints and get the solder flowing.  But...you are on your way...get cleaning!

Yeah, the solder gun just wasn't heating up very well.  I'm hoping to get to get it a lot better.  I have an Iron I might get out and use.

[HectorLooi]

You might want to use a bit of soldering flux on that to get a nice shiny joint.

[LittleWatchShop]

27 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

nice shiny joint

My high school shop mentor always told us: "They should shine like a silver dollar."

[SonnyBurnett]

21 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

You might want to use a bit of soldering flux on that to get a nice shiny joint.

I did.

[HectorLooi]

1 hour ago, SonnyBurnett said:

I did.

Okaaay.... Maybe you need a bigger iron. Like a 60W or 100W.

[SonnyBurnett]

3 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Okaaay.... Maybe you need a bigger iron. Like a 60W or 100W.

I was using a 100 watt solder gun.  The one in our cabinet was a Chicago Electric.  I went back using a soldering iron and it worked much better.

[Plato]

5 hours ago, SonnyBurnett said:

I was using a 100 watt solder gun.  The one in our cabinet was a Chicago Electric.  I went back using a soldering iron and it worked much better.

It's generally the size of the tip rather than the power going to the iron that makes the difference.

[SonnyBurnett]

6 hours ago, Plato said:

It's generally the size of the tip rather than the power going to the iron that makes the difference.

Yeah, it only had one tip.  Once I got the iron out it worked a bit better.  Got a more permanent cord on it now.  Next I might paint it.

[rodabod]

Regarding soldering irons, temperature controlled ones are very handy to have. By that I mean the simple types with thermal switches by Weller, etc. 

[JulianK]

Hi all,

I’ve tried to do some research on the various machines and relative basket sizes. The machine model seems to be “L&R Special”.

it is missing 1 lid and the basket attachment but works fully otherwise. Does anybody know if their is a particular basket that fits this machine? I really appreciate any help/advice.

thanks

J

[JulianK]

I haven’t found an identical model yet, I think that this one predates the “Master” models. Should I be concerned at the age of the machine?

[LittleWatchShop]

It is a motor, a switch, a rheostat, a heater resistor, and a bulb--very simple.  All of the items can be repaired. Unlikely you will ever need to do anything to the motor except for brushes.  Someone on the forum recently had to replace a rheostat.

So, in summary, I would not worry.  Don't pay too much.

[JulianK]

2 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

It is a motor, a switch, a rheostat, a heater resistor, and a bulb--very simple.  All of the items can be repaired. Unlikely you will ever need to do anything to the motor except for brushes.  Someone on the forum recently had to replace a rheostat.

So, in summary, I would not worry.  Don't pay too much.

Thanks for the reassurance. In terms of the basket, I’m going to measure the outer diameter of the wheel where is affixes. Do you think this would be crazy expensive to replace?

 

I’ve heard of people finding generic or later replacements but I haven’t found anyone with my exact L & R model. 

[LittleWatchShop]

1 hour ago, JulianK said:

Thanks for the reassurance. In terms of the basket, I’m going to measure the outer diameter of the wheel where is affixes. Do you think this would be crazy expensive to replace?

 

I’ve heard of people finding generic or later replacements but I haven’t found anyone with my exact L & R model. 

I bought  a set last year for $88.  A little high, but I have seen them cheaper.

[JulianK]

44 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I bought  a set last year for $88.  A little high, but I have seen them cheaper.

Do you have an L&R master model? I’m going to measure the outside diameter of the spinning attachment when I go to the local shop. 

[LittleWatchShop]

here you go

[LittleWatchShop]

Notice the springs under the blades.  They are necessary but I dont see them on the one you show.

Edited January 31, 2022 by LittleWatchShop