Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello to all,

My name is Ash (from NZ). Im a watch enthusiast and trying to learn more about Horology.

I have been picking odd watch repair jobs here and there and self-learning.

Firstly, thanks a lot to Mark Lovick for uploading fantastic videos on youtube that are so simple to follow. Keep up the great work :)

Question - is there a way to diagnose quartz watch circuit using those test probes (that have an LED inbuilt) or perhaps using a multi-meter? For some watch movements such as Myota 2035, it makes sense to replace the whole movement. In other cases, it make sense to repair it (if possible).

Is there a way to narrow down the faults in quartz watch? For instance, if a watch is gaining/loosing time, it could be the quartz crystal out of freq etc. how can it be scanned appropriately?

Im not sure if its even possible or not. Hopefully I could get some help here.

Thanks a lot in advance

Ash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A friend of mine who's an amateur, but very competent, repairer, has a machine on which he places the watch - minus battery. When he presses a button, the magnetic mechanism inside the machine kicks in and turns the watch movement and hands at high speed. If the hands and movement don't whizz round, he considers the quartz movement to be probably beyond repair - broken circuit board, faulty coil, etc. If the movement does run on the machine, then it may well be repairable.

 

Apologies if you know this already - I speak as an observer - and apologies for not knowing what the machine's called!

 

Oh - and a warm welcome to the forum!

Edited by WillFly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Ash,

                 Welcome to the forum,  which seems to be growing very rapidly, by the way.  I'm afraid I do not know the answer to your question, but I think a good place to start would be to find out the name of the quartz tester Will mentions above.  There are members at all skill levels on the forum and no doubt someone will have more advice for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought that if it's any other thing than the coil it's u/s. But isn't there something about a coil being separate from the board that changes the games a little. Like the boy's have said the name of that device would be handy and knowledge from the man would be good. There are many levels of skill on the forum so good luck with it and Wecome to the forum btw. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you will need a multimeter and access to the data-sheet for the movement will be a help.

 

Israel's tool looks really good, but I have not got one. 

 

Other meter's made by Witschi are extremely expensive but are industry standard, they rarely come up on eBay but you could get a bargain from time to time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A friend of mine who's an amateur, but very competent, repairer, has a machine on which he places the watch - minus battery. When he presses a button, the magnetic mechanism inside the machine kicks in and turns the watch movement and hands at high speed. If the hands and movement don't whizz round, he considers the quartz movement to be probably beyond repair - broken circuit board, faulty coil, etc. If the movement does run on the machine, then it may well be repairable.

 

Apologies if you know this already - I speak as an observer - and apologies for not knowing what the machine's called!

 

Oh - and a warm welcome to the forum!

hi WillFly,

 

thanks a lot for your comment. that machine is called 'demagnetizer'. if the movement runs freely on magnetizer, that generally means gear train is fine. it also means the fault lies either in coil or circuit. i do have one of those already. its a cheap chinese one but does the trick :)

 

I was more keen on learning how to fix the circuit, if possible. I have succesfully fixed few coils. they are not too bad. Le arsi has got a good video on it

 

 

Cheers for your help :)

 

Ash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks a lot to Autowind, Craig, SeikoWatch & Mark Lovick for their comments.

 

i have been thinking of building something similar to what LeArsi shows on youtube. looks like a good nifty project :)

 

Most of all, really appreciate the wearm welcome i have received on this forum so far. Glad to be a part of it.

 

i have got one more queestion re Watch crystal glass. I will make a seperate thread for it.

 

Regards

 

Ash NZ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that machine is called 'demagnetizer'. if the movement runs freely on magnetizer, that generally means gear train is fine. it also means the fault lies either in coil or circuit. i do have one of those already. its a cheap chinese one but does the trick :)

 

Not sure I recommend a de-magnetiser. I know it pushes the wheels around but my fear is it would potentially affect the stepping motor. I have no evidence of this - it's just that I can be a cautious bugger :)

 

The Etic Polytest and Omnitest both have that function plus they generate a signal to indicate if power is going through the circuit.

 

 

They are great machines, and come in very handy - I have had them for years.

 

Sadly they are no longer being manufactured but I do understand there are some alternatives out there.

 

post-1-0-08582600-1392936734_thumb.jpg

 

I have fixed a few coils in the past but circuits are not my thing, if I feel one is damaged I would rather replace it if I can ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ash welcome to the forum. I'm curious too about your question so please keep us posted of any progress...and if you build a tester I might be interested! Quartz is not my line of expertise ( and barely the others either, I'm a beginner).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/20/2014 at 6:34 AM, Ashnz said:

Hello to all,

My name is Ash (from NZ). Im a watch enthusiast and trying to learn more about Horology.

I have been picking odd watch repair jobs here and there and self-learning.

Firstly, thanks a lot to Mark Lovick for uploading fantastic videos on youtube that are so simple to follow. Keep up the great work :)

Question - is there a way to diagnose quartz watch circuit using those test probes (that have an LED inbuilt) or perhaps using a multi-meter? For some watch movements such as Myota 2035, it makes sense to replace the whole movement. In other cases, it make sense to repair it (if possible).

Is there a way to narrow down the faults in quartz watch? For instance, if a watch is gaining/loosing time, it could be the quartz crystal out of freq etc. how can it be scanned appropriately?

Im not sure if its even possible or not. Hopefully I could get some help here.khz. 

Thanks a lot in advance

Ash

Hi Ash, you would need an Accurate frequency counter.  Look across the XTAL or from the XTAL OUT to the Batt+ve rail for 32768 Hz. (32.768 KHz) There is a Small Cap from XTAL out to the batt +v rail,  preset at the manufacturer for final trimming. You can slow the Osc down by making a gimmick Cap of say 6 twisted ECW turns tight together,  Solder it from XTAL ouput to +v rail or across the XTAL and then trim to length for the correct frequency. Good luck with this one .  Always set for a slight gain say 0.2 Secs/day. Early Quartz watches did have adjustment but not nowadays. You can only speed the Osc up by filing the actual XTAL element or changing the Osc trimming cap for one with less capacitance. I was an electronic engineer and I could not be bothered with this.  Always try cleaning the watch first or give it the line free treatment. I hope this is of help, Mike.

Edited by ecodec
More info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Heman
      Hello all,
      I have a watch I would like to fix my self. It's made by TAWATEC, who is no longer in business. It's very similar to a Luminox and used TGS for lume. I will provide information to the best of my ability. 

      Here is a link to some information about it. Here are a few pictures of the watch. 

       


       
      I have had the watch since May of 2011. I had the battery replaced in Feb 2015 by a local shop. Less than a year later, I noticed that after taking a shower there was condensation under the crystal. I pulled the crown and left it sit to air out. After about a week I pushed the crown back in and the watch no longer worked. I wondered what caused it to leak. I then remembered I had to change the date on the watch a few days before condensation had got inside the watch. When I was trying to set the date I noticed that it was difficult to pull the crown out and it was more difficult to turn than usual. My guess was that the gasket/O-ring that is on the stem/crown was messed up and had ripped and water had entered that way. I left the watch sit for a year and used another watch as my daily driver. I'm hoping to get this one up and running again. So I recently decided to see if I could fix the watch myself. 
       
      Here is what I have done and have figured out so far...
      I was able to remove the case back by removing the 4 Phillips screws. Visually inspecting the O-ring that seals the case back, everything looks good. The movement is a Ronda 515. The plastic ring that holds the movement inside the case says Ronda 515 # 6. I was able to remove the crown and stem. Looking towards the inside of the crown there was remnants of the O-ring. After clearing the remnants and putting the crown back in, the crown moves freely. I also found remnants if rubber on the front of the dial. After inspecting the battery, it looks to have leaked its electrolyte What I would like to do first is replace the O-Ring that's on the crown and put a new battery in it. If I then determine that the movement is damaged, I can replace it later. 
      What do I need to do to figure out what size of O-ring I need for the crown? I can take pictures of the crown/stem if needed. I also have analog calipers to use that are in inches.
      Thanks for your time!
       
       
    • By watchnoob1
      Dear all,
      It's my first post here, please excuse if I post to the wrong sub-forum.
      I own a small collection of quartz and automatic watches and at least do most of the usual service myself.
      A friend of mine gave me an old watch she likes and asked me if I can change the battery. She told me it's around 25 years old and cheap but she likes the dial. It was a present by a french bank she worked for.
      All my watches are either press or screw down backs and I have never seen a watch like this. It seems that the only possible way to open the watch is the small plastic notch on the back. I tried to open it with quite some force but it didn't open.
      Do I overlook something, is there a special way to open it?
      I also got the original case. A note in it says in french that the battery is interchangeable.
      Already thanks for all your help!
      Best regards,
      Martin




    • By ash.bez
      I agree with what you are saying completely. I plan to only keep the case and back and replace everything else. I would have loved to put a mechanical movement in the watch but I think it’s too small (33.9mm x 7.1mm). 
      My plan is to have the case and back replated and have the back blanked of its manufacturers engraving so as I can have a blank canvas to have something engraved on it myself. I was hoping to get advice on what movements could be used and buy the parts ready for a watchmaker to assemble as like you said, I don’t want to ruin the watch. 
      I’ve already started sourcing/ordering parts which was a little silly without any advice so I’ll post what I have ordered below (if rules permit me to do so?). 
       


    • By richiewheels
      I have one of these in for service, cant figure out why the hour hand does not go round when time is set.
      The hour hand sets OK although sometimes it clicks every hour and other times it runs smooth.
      The minutes and seconds function fine even when setting the time.
      http://www.old-omegas.com/1337en.html
      Maybe a problem with the magnetic wheel on the date set?
      I looked under the microscope and it looks like the 2 part magnetic wheel on the date side is only rotating on the bottom half and not transferring the force to the top half to the hour wheel.
      Any ideas on how to remedy it and get her going again??
      Omega 1332.pdf
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • What's wrong with that one? Some play / noise is normal.
    • Thats incredibly bad news. I was sure that this would not happen with the genuine article. I didn't order from Cousins and it will probably be a hassle for me to complain.

      And the official answer from Bergeon is the worst. When you are a customer who has paid good money for a product that is defective, you do not want to hear "Well, we acknowledge that there is an issue with your product that renders your purchase useless, but other people have not complained, so you should be fine"
    • Please advise where I might purchase an oscillating weight including bearing for a Seiko 7S26A, I live in the Eastern Cape, South Africa. Thank you.
    • Hey guys! Great information here. Teaching myself some basic watch maintenance. Really just starting out. Bought this with a view to "learn by doing". It wasn't winding when I started. Had an amazing time taking it apart and examining the parts. The hairspring seemed bent so I had a go at shaping it and damaged it even worse. The study came off and was lost, then part of the spring knotted ... Argh. I'm murdering this watch I know! I'm having a really tough time finding a compatible replacement. The parts chart says that the balance is "different from basic calibre 100" and to "refer to catalogue GF 239". I can't find any document by that name. If I could get some help it would be appreciated!
    • Yes I bought them from Cousins. This is what Bergeon replied to them: It's probably the friction of the white lid material coating flaking off. Yes I can see that it could happen but frankly I don’t think it’s a big issue. After a few operations you can clean it and it’s done. We are selling a huge amount of these oil cup and never had any complains. So they know about the issue but have no intentions to do anything about it. Cousins didn’t like the outcome and have gone back to them again. So I’m still waiting.
×