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Found 9 results

  1. Hi there, I have this old Rado Florence Leather Band Dress Watch that I would like to replace the battery on. I used to have this done by Watch Repair people but now it seems to be outrageously expensive. Can somebody give me instructions on how to do it. I've replaced batteries on press in back caps and screw in caps but not really sure with this one. Thank you and sure would appreciate the help. Here's a pic.
  2. Got quite a peculiar one at the moment, and it's something that I've never personally encountered before. The clients watch is an Armani AR5905; he thought he needed a new battery and so here I am, Upon taking the case-back off and placing a new battery in, I heard the circuit do the all so familiar whirring noise like it was springing back to life, however when I flipped it over it wasn't ticking. So I pulled the battery out and again put it back in, but what I noticed was that the whirring noise was only happening when the battery was halfway seated and thus not making full contact, and as soon as the battery was fully seated everything ceased. This time I put the battery in halfway and then flipped over the watch to see it working, and to my surprise the seconds sub-dial at the 6 position was spinning around wildly. However again stopped when the battery was fully inserted. Anybody have any ideas as to what is going on? I could upload a video if that would help.
  3. Dear all, It's my first post here, please excuse if I post to the wrong sub-forum. I own a small collection of quartz and automatic watches and at least do most of the usual service myself. A friend of mine gave me an old watch she likes and asked me if I can change the battery. She told me it's around 25 years old and cheap but she likes the dial. It was a present by a french bank she worked for. All my watches are either press or screw down backs and I have never seen a watch like this. It seems that the only possible way to open the watch is the small plastic notch on the back. I tried to open it with quite some force but it didn't open. Do I overlook something, is there a special way to open it? I also got the original case. A note in it says in french that the battery is interchangeable. Already thanks for all your help! Best regards, Martin
  4. Hello to all, My name is Ash (from NZ). Im a watch enthusiast and trying to learn more about Horology. I have been picking odd watch repair jobs here and there and self-learning. Firstly, thanks a lot to Mark Lovick for uploading fantastic videos on youtube that are so simple to follow. Keep up the great work Question - is there a way to diagnose quartz watch circuit using those test probes (that have an LED inbuilt) or perhaps using a multi-meter? For some watch movements such as Myota 2035, it makes sense to replace the whole movement. In other cases, it make sense to repair it (if possible). Is there a way to narrow down the faults in quartz watch? For instance, if a watch is gaining/loosing time, it could be the quartz crystal out of freq etc. how can it be scanned appropriately? Im not sure if its even possible or not. Hopefully I could get some help here. Thanks a lot in advance Ash
  5. I need to replace the battery for my late grandfather's Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar (1551/861). I have probably spent 6 hours searching the internet to identify which battery I need, and I have been completely unsuccessful. Would anybody happen to know what battery I would need, or at least where on the internet I might be able to identify this information? Thank you so very much.
  6. Hi Watchmakers/repairers, I live in New Zealand, am new to this forum, and my main experience with watches is changing batteries for my & my wife’s watches, and as you will see, I don’t know the technical terms, etc. My wife has a Lorus women’s quartz watch with V501-X201 written on the back (see photos attached from after I took it apart, removed the crown+stem, then reattached it after taking the main workings out of the case). In recent years the batteries (Maxell SR626SW (AKA 377) meant to be 1.55V) have been failing after only a few months, then I’d take them out, check the voltage (it might be 1.2V), clean it, put it back in, and it would go for another few months. Recently when this happened I found some specs of blue-ish looking corrosion under the battery itself and in the battery compartment, so I cleaned it a bit, but lacking time, I put the same battery back in with the plan of replacing it another time, and it worked, but 2 days later it stopped again. This time I cleaned the battery compartment with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud, and replaced the battery with an unused one, but the watch would not work (well, I don’t see the second hand moving). Battery voltage is 1.49V (measured before replacement and after finding the watch didn’t run), because it’s a bit old, but my records show this watch runs on well under 1V. I note in one of the attached photos, the white pad in the battery compartment has a large hole in it. Looks like it’s worn through. Assuming this pad is for insulation (to prevent a short), I tried putting a small piece of paper over the hole, but the watch still wouldn’t start. Questions: Q1. Does the watch need to be basically assembled (apart from the back & strap) for it to work, or do I just need to make sure the crown is pushed in? Q2. Should I be covering that large hole in the white pad at the bottom of the battery cavity with some paper? Or plastic? Q3. What are the most likely causes of the problem with this watch stopping often in recent years? Q4. What are the most likely causes of the watch not working now? (I have a cheap multimeter if you can tell me what to test...and how.) Q5. Is it likely that cleaning the battery compartment (not very gently) with a cotton bud could have caused it to stop working? Q6. How do you think I can fix it? I don’t think it’s worth paying a watch repairer to fix this watch, but maybe I can fix it myself if it's easy enough. Thanks for your time and skills. Terry
  7. I received this watch as a gift and for some reason it's no longer working. Is that plastic casing a space for another battery or is that other battery (small) defective? Thanks for the help.
  8. Hello all, With my success (through this forum's help) on my classic Rado, I've decided to try another battery replacement on what I believe is a more complicated watch. I've not worn this watch for decades due to outrageous price for battery replacement. However, with this forum I hope I can get some help on how to do this properly. There are four screws on each corner of the backing. I believe the screws are holding the top case with the glass or crystal thus access is through the crystal. However, if this is the case how do you remove the winder's crown to access the back of the movement? I do not believe the four screws are holding the stainless steel backing for the stainless steel backing also holds the wrist band unit. Any help is greatly appreciated. Here's a couple of pics.
  9. A quick step-by-step tutorial on how to replace the battery on a TAG Heuer Aquaracer. This watch belongs to a good friend, and it is in need of a battery replacement. Step 1: Remove the screw on case back. The tools I am using are a three-pins Jaxa case opener and a case holder. At first, I try to open the case-back just with the watch mounted on the case holder. But the case-back is very tightly screwed on (this is a diver watch with 300m waterproof). In the end, I secure the the case holder on a mounted bench vice to free both of my hands to open the case-back. I also find that using a three-pins opener a lot better than a two-pins, especially for a diver watch. Step 2: Check the battery The quartz movement inside this Aquaracer is a Ronda 6004.B, which uses 373 Silver-Oxide battery (or SR916SW). When I receive the watch, the battery is not fully exhausted. The small-second hand jumps every four seconds (battery-saving mode), though still keeping time it shows that the battery is weak. With battery replacement jobs, I usually receive the watch with a fully exhausted battery. To ensure that the issue is not with the movement, I always test the old battery before replacing it. A quick test on this battery shows that the problem is with the battery. A new battery is around 1.5Volts. Step 3: Grease the seals Before I screw the caseback on, I grease the caseback seal using Seiko silicon greaser (S-916) that comes with an applicator and the crown seal with Seiko greaser (TSF-451). If the seal is no longer in good condition, it is advisable to replace it also. Tip: To grease the seal on the crown, you will need to first remove the stem (or watch winder). Below is an excellent video on how to remove a stem on just about any watch. Step 4: Waterproof test The next step is to waterproof test the watch. Note: I am still saving up to get myself a waterproof tester. Job's done!
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