Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Many were brass, I would say yours is steel. Don't know the brand name. Did yours come in its box, sometimes the name is on the box.


It has not arrived yet. I will still need to get a bow!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
This site should help you it will save me typing it all out.[emoji3]You don't use gears, all that you need is in the box apart from the bow, or is the bow underneath the tool.

http://www.horo-logical.co.uk/jacot.html


Thanks. The only question I have left is how the gear does not slip out of the female end that receives the pivot that is not being worked?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

When adjusted correctly for the the pivot you're about to burnish, the shoulder on that end of the shaft will just touch the Jacob drum and prevent the shaft from moving laterally.  The downward pressure from the burnisher will keep the pivot in place during the burnishing operation.

  • Like 1
Posted
When adjusted correctly for the the pivot you're about to burnish, the shoulder on that end of the shaft will just touch the Jacob drum and prevent the shaft from moving laterally.  The downward pressure from the burnisher will keep the pivot in place during the burnishing operation.


OK, that makes sense. Time to practical on old Russian watch pivots:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Great video JD . Have an old one i bought at an auction. Cheap. looks okay but wonder how i change the hole in part that holds the wheel. Is there different inserts? Or should it only be held in the pivot? 

 

Posted
Great video JD . Have an old one i bought at an auction. Cheap. looks okay but wonder how i change the hole in part that holds the wheel. Is there different inserts? Or should it only be held in the pivot? 

 

Everything I have read says that the hole is tapered to accept any male pivots. So no change required. As well, where the pivot transitions into the shift is where the business end is stopped by the resting groove; so the pivot won't fall out of the tapered female hole on the other end. Pressure from the file or burnishing file also keeps the pivot in the slot. Cool

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
14 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Figured it out and made a video
 

Oh man, now every one can see how to use one, they're all going to want one, and the prices for used ones are going to go through the roof! :)

Anyhoo, thanks a bunch for the video.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Oh man, now every one can see how to use one, they're all going to want one, and the prices for used ones are going to go through the roof! [emoji4]

Anyhoo, thanks a bunch for the video.

 


You are right, glad I have one :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Jayrichard,

Ron Decorte made a good comprehensive video covering the Jacot Lathe. I am pretty sure it is now out of print but you may be able to obtain a used CD.

david 

Posted
On 29/10/2016 at 10:37 AM, oldhippy said:

You can buy a burnishing tool just be careful and make sure you get the one for you as they come left or right handed. Needle files are also used for reduction.

Could you please clarify?  What exactly is the difference between a left and a right hand burnishing tool?

Posted
 

A right-hand burnisher will allow the clock-maker to burnish the pivot from underneath

with the piece being held and rotated from their left.  A left-hand burnisher will allow

burnishing from underneath while being held on the right.  If the preference is to burnish from over-the-top, a left-hand burnisher is used with the piece being held on the left and a right-hand burnisher with it held on the right.  This can add confusion as to which burnisher to purchase.  Since most machinists will machine with the piece being held in a lathe head stock on their left whether they are right- or left-handed, it should first be decided whether burnishing will be done from underneath or over-the-top.  

 
e-top.
  • Like 1
Posted
  A right-hand burnisher will allow the clock-maker to burnish the pivot from underneath



with the piece being held and rotated from their left.  A left-hand burnisher will allow

burnishing from underneath while being held on the right.  If the preference is to burnish from over-the-top, a left-hand burnisher is used with the piece being held on the left and a right-hand burnisher with it held on the right.  This can add confusion as to which burnisher to purchase.  Since most machinists will machine with the piece being held in a lathe head stock on their left whether they are right- or left-handed, it should first be decided whether burnishing will be done from underneath or over-the-top.  

  e-top.

I purchased a combined burnisher and pivot file from cousins UK at about 90 bucks and I made sure I could hold it with my left hand on top and turn the pivot (in the jacot) with my right hand. Meaning the rounded part of the tool is on the bottom right to confirm with the slope of the pivot for balance staff pivots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

OH. the topic refers to the use of a joacot tool.  This involves downward pressure on the pivot that rests in the jacot drum.  Downward pressure is the only type of force you can use with this type of tool.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
×
×
  • Create New...